Leaky Portside Water Tank& Soft Cabin Sole

NP336 · **Joined:** 16 Mar 2007 16:10 **Posts:** 143

Came up to the boat last night to discover that our portside water tank is leaking. The cabin sole adjacent to the settee is soft. I have two problems.

1.) How do I go about accessing the portside tank so I can assess the damage and most likely replace the tank.

2.) How does one go about replacing the T & H and the soft underpayment?

Has anybody tackled this problem? Know a tank replacement?
Is this a DI Y or best left to the yard?

All comments and advice are welcome And greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Nick.
S/V Angela Mia
#336.
Lake Superior.

WayneH · **Posted:** 30 Jul 2020 21:27

The board that holds the seat cushions in is screwed and plugged to the upright support. Cut the head off a drywall screw and chuck it into your drill. Drill out the plug and when the screw hits the head of the screw under the plug, the plug pops out.

Remove the screws holding the upright on and you will have access to the water tank.

Attachment:

File comment: We cheated and used a Soni-Crafter to cut the screws holding the seat to the upright.

demolish 028.jpg [ 151.77 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

If yours is like mine was, the leak was on the tank outlet on the aft end of the tank. My PO globbed it with sillycone and stopped the leak.

Attachment:

File comment: Aft end of port tank

demolish 029.jpg [ 150.94 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

What I did not get a picture of was the new opening we cut into the seat forward of the tank. We cut a lot of foam out and turned that dead space into storage. This is where the Admiral stores cleaning supplies and other chemicals.

Attachment:

File comment: Forward view of port tank

demolish 043.JPG [ 2 MB | Viewed 0 times ]

NP336 · **Joined:** 16 Mar 2007 16:10 **Posts:** 143

Wayne,
Thanks for sharing.
This makes sense.
Did you replace your water tank?
If so, can you please share the vendor and tank model?
Also, can you share your thoughts, history with dealing with the cabin sole?

Thanks,
Nick.

WayneH · **Posted:** 31 Jul 2020 21:52

Tank wasn't leaking anymore thanks to all the silicon that was installed. So we just replaced the uprights and left the tank alone.

I used www.marinesan.com when I replaced my holding tank. They have nine 30 gallon rectangular tanks in their catalog. You will have to measure the existing tank to get an match. But once you find a match, you can specify the placement of your fittings to match the existing tank.

The gentleman you see cutting the upright out is a master boat builder. He cleaned up the teak on the sole and had some white wood that he cut into thin strips to replace the holly. I sure as heck wouldn't have even tried to fix it myself.

Attachment:

File comment: Strips cut and ready to be installed.

demolish 038.jpg [ 196.8 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

Attachment:

File comment: New strips installed. Clamps are repairs to the teak area.

demolish 039.jpg [ 193.12 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

Attachment:

File comment: Everything put back together.

Rebuild 032.jpg [ 170.32 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

And I did run across some pictures of the new storage area forward of the tank.

Attachment:

File comment: We did not remove all the foam in an effort to prevent the tank from moving. The hoses are the hot and cold water to the head. They were buried in the foam before.

Rebuild 008.jpg [ 195.98 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

Attachment:

File comment: Cut out for the new hatch to the storage area under the settee. IIRC (and there's been a lot of rum since then) the opening is 8X12.

Rebuild 009.jpg [ 128.17 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

NP336 · **Joined:** 16 Mar 2007 16:10 **Posts:** 143

Thanks Wayne for the follow up info and photos.
I think our cabin sole I s 1/4 thick x2 3/8” wide teak with 1/4” wide holly adhered to 3/4” underpayment.
I won’t know for sure until I open things up a bit.
I think the 30 gallon port side tanks were from Kracor model # 5060.

Kracor told me that they won’t sell directly to boat owners but thru Tartan. Ronco makes a similar tank # 470 and will sell directly.

Thanks again.
Nick.

puffcard · **Posted:** 01 Aug 2020 21:57

Ronco B470 is an exact match, but no baffles. The tank is a pain to pull, but I was able to pull it out with only removing the top plywood. Cut glass in back against the hull and remove all the top screws. Remove front fiddle teak board. Lift top plywood and then cut away the foam. Replaced hoses and reinstall. Ronco B470 Water Tank. It's a exact match and is only 25gals. I ordered direct, you can use a made up marine service name or a friend's company name and you'll get the discount and can order. The lead time when I ordered was 7-10 day to ship, plus 5 to ship. I have weld repaired tanks before, and worked for 5 years. If you are tearing the boat up to get to it out, I would replace.

Get the wood dry and see how bad the damage is. I had subflooring damage by the mast, was able to save the veneer and replace the subfloor plywood.

Here is the fitting locations for the port.

NP336 · **Joined:** 16 Mar 2007 16:10 **Posts:** 143

Thanks Puffcard.
Great information!
How did you secure the new tank?
Did you use expanding foam?
Thanks again,
Nick.

Ex Hobie Sailor · **Posted:** 29 Sep 2020 18:26

I had very good luck patching a leak in my Stbd water tank with Locktite PL Marine and mesh drywall tape. Roughed surface, slathered it on, smoothed mesh over it, a little more PL over tape and let it set up. Bonds very nicely, no leaks.
It had cracked along the back edge from overfilling by PO's and myself. Teak and Holly was discolored. I enlarged inspection covers to gain more access, found support braces for stbd salon decking not fastened on one end.

I now have tank level monitors installed and for about $15.00 bought a hose end water meter, and measure how much I put in tanks so not to overfill. This has been working very well.

Really like the Locktite PL Marine, available at HD.

Looked like a real job to remove my stbd tank, I have an 1984 with cabinets, no pilot berth. Hoping I won't have to in the future.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

WayneH wrote:

The board that holds the seat cushions in is screwed and plugged to the upright support. Cut the head off a drywall screw and chuck it into your drill. Drill out the plug and when the screw hits the head of the screw under the plug, the plug pops out.

Remove the screws holding the upright on and you will have access to the water tank.

Attachment:

demolish 028.jpg

If yours is like mine was, the leak was on the tank outlet on the aft end of the tank. My PO globbed it with sillycone and stopped the leak.

Attachment:

demolish 029.jpg

What I did not get a picture of was the new opening we cut into the seat forward of the tank. We cut a lot of foam out and turned that dead space into storage. This is where the Admiral stores cleaning supplies and other chemicals.

Attachment:

demolish 043.JPG

I'm a bit confused by the pictures. How did you get the vertical wood piece out from the side of the port tank without removing the top piece of plywood? I removed the bungs and the teak trim piece at the top, but the vertical piece seems to be attached at the bottom?

We have a large crack that goes above and below the output fitting (multiple inches) if I pull the tank, I will just replace. We are debating just cutting larger access holes in the top of the tank and using it as additional storage without disassembling everything.

felizcortez · **Joined:** 25 Apr 2016 10:25 **Posts:** 185

WayneH wrote:

The board that holds the seat cushions in is screwed and plugged to the upright support. Cut the head off a drywall screw and chuck it into your drill. Drill out the plug and when the screw hits the head of the screw under the plug, the plug pops out.

Remove the screws holding the upright on and you will have access to the water tank.

Attachment:

demolish 028.jpg

If yours is like mine was, the leak was on the tank outlet on the aft end of the tank. My PO globbed it with sillycone and stopped the leak.

Attachment:

demolish 029.jpg

What I did not get a picture of was the new opening we cut into the seat forward of the tank. We cut a lot of foam out and turned that dead space into storage. This is where the Admiral stores cleaning supplies and other chemicals.

Attachment:

demolish 043.JPG

I'm a bit confused by the pictures. How did you get the vertical wood piece out from the side of the port tank without removing the top piece of plywood? I removed the bungs and the teak trim piece at the top, but the vertical piece seems to be attached at the bottom?

We have a large crack that goes above and below the output fitting (multiple inches) if I pull the tank, I will just replace. We are debating just cutting larger access holes in the top of the tank and using it as additional storage without disassembling everything.

Tartan37.com

Leaky Portside Water Tank& Soft Cabin Sole

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