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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 03 May 2009 14:06 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 05 Feb 2009 22:21
Posts: 22
I removed two from the bulkhead only because I had two new ones made due to corrosion. Other than that I think you can inspect and rebed just fine without removing them. I used Boatlife caulk because my friends and myself have always had good luck with it. Did it about 3 weeks ago and no water so far, rebed and then immediately hooked shrouds back up and tensioned.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 05 May 2009 21:47 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 15 Aug 2008 18:14
Posts: 21
I've had very good luck using Life Chalk every 2 or 3 years. Remove the caps, clean out any old chalk and rebed. I think the problem is that Tartan made the through deck hole too large and you have to bridge to large of gap for a permanent seal.

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Mike Barich
S/V Sundog #207


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 21 Sep 2020 09:41 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 24 Nov 2016 08:25
Posts: 28
I have seen a lot of different methods and materials used when re-bedding chainplates.

Most common bedding materials:
-3M 5200/4200
-Life caulk or similar product
-Butyl based extruded tape (https://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)

Can anyone attest to the lifespan of each material in this type of repair? I'm leaning towards the butyl option as it seems more robust, but welcome any feedback.

Thanks!

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Dan
ANTHEM
Hull #459


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 21 Sep 2020 17:31 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 467
Location: Maine/USVI
I just used butyl tape. It's still in the hull deck joint from 1979 and malleable as well. I sealed that joint with polysulfide after I scraped it out some, but all the deck hardware is getting bedded in butyl. A seal around the edge of the chainplate covers, and a little ring of it around each screw. Down it goes, then you use the butyl compound to clean up. Same as I bedded the Newfound portlights. It works best if you countersink the fastener holes a tiny bit.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2020 04:57 
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Skipper

Joined: 04 Aug 2013 13:33
Posts: 300
Dan - I cleaned and bedded with Life caulk a couple times and it would leak after maybe a year. I bedded with butyl tape and it had been at least 3 years.

Some may be fine with regular sealant and have a difference experience based on the rig is tuned (or isn't) and how hard on the wind sailed & for how long, but the butyl seems to stay flexible in the void. I agree with an earlier comment that the exit hole is pretty large.

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Dave Lorick
Lunacy #198
Tampa, FL


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 22 Sep 2020 07:52 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 467
Location: Maine/USVI
On youtube Richard at Newfound has a video (albeit a little choppy) about how to use the butyl tape for bedding the stainless portlights. It works. A year and a half later I haven't had a chance to clean up the excess around the ports, but I've been stealing some of it here and there (while cleaning up around the closest portlight) to bed the chainplates. It continues to work just fine. I pressed a bunch (overfilled) of it down flush to the deck and over the upper edge around the chainplates, then did the circle (very small, thin tube) around the chainplate cover and tiny rings around each screw and drove 'er down. It CAN'T leak. And it will flex with the rigging.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Standing Rigging - chain plate leaks
PostPosted: 12 Oct 2020 09:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 467
Location: Maine/USVI
I'm going to shrink wrap the boat for the winter, head to STT. When I stepped the mast, the aft starboard chainplate made noise when tensioning, and the forward port lower opened a crack running outboard. Those will both be pulled before I go in the water and checked. It was definitely not overtightened.

My centerboard is just enough wonky so it binds slightly to port. Add some mussels and I'm sure it won't drop. I'm probably going to pull the stainless pivot pin assembly and re-manufacture AFTER I check the padeye and make sure everything is square on the board itself and the pennant is running true from the padeye.

It looks like it was grounded once and the pivot pin assembly was hit. Just enough evidence to draw that conclusion. One corner is dinged. It has obviously been out, since I took out one bolt broken off that was actually tapped into a deeper bolt broken off (only 1). But some stupid shit faired the whole thing up with west system 407 thickener after it all was put back together (guess who), so there will be some de-sculpting with mallet and chisel to get it out (yet another "note to self"). I think new standing rigging is in the offing as well. Got a manlift at the yard and can take one stay down at a time to do it. But not until April-May.


 
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