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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2019 11:08 
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Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Maybe helpful. I covered roughly half of the opening with clamped battens over a plexi (cheap Lowe's) cover to see what was going on. Drop the end low and pour in. Good clamping and gorilla tape. Then move plexi & clamps, multiple pours so it didn't go crazy. Once the bottom kicked off, remove the plexi and close in the top, keep pouring. Sharp tools to smooth out and level for re-glassing. Drop in the cutout side of the rudder, fill some with West filler to "tack" it in place, fair, then glassed over with biax. Bottom of the rudder got touched up with the hard filler, the whole thing sanded fair, multiple coats of primer/barrier coat.

When I fitted the skeg, I used Gorilla tape to play with it until I decided how much I wanted to cut off. The fwd tip of the top was knocked off and I simply fitted the skeg as properly as I could to the hull receiver (flat area), marked it and cut quite a bit off the back edge. The "new" skegs really don't match up to the hull in any common sense way. I just did my best to match, and will fair everything with soft West. Then, having left over foam from the rudder, I foamed the inside of the skeg, leaving enough room at the top to get the pintle bolt assembly back in. I sealed up the foam with strips of biax. One of these photos you can see I kinda indented the back of the skeg (curvature) when I sealed it up. One thing I should have done was work down the inside top of the skeg to the thickness of the old skeg remnant. It wasn't that great a layup and I don't know how it would have worked out. I had no tools appropriate for doing that, and I'll live with it. You'd need a small air driven grinder. The top of the new Tartan skeg I bought (over $600) was way too thick. The lower (skeg hung) fairing flaps will be added later.


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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 21 Apr 2020 16:00 
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Joined: 21 Oct 2006 18:12
Posts: 325
That "tophat" idea is great - I wish I had thought of that (:

Richard


 
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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 24 Oct 2020 01:37 
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Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 185
I've read through the articles on the website along with this thread and still am not 100% clear. If you remove the pintle and also want to drop the rudder, does the skeg need to come off? If the skeg needs to come off, does it separate when you hammer on the pintle bolts from the inside? Am I going to have to grind the seam to get it to separate and then fair it when it is reinstalled? Just looking for some more information here before I start removing the rudder as I'm still not clear on how this works. e.g. Is it possible to replace the pintle by only cutting the 3 inch access hole in the rudder, or does the rudder have to come completely off the boat and if thats the case does the skeg need to come off as well.

Attached is a picture of my current pintle both inside of the hull and out. It looks a bit rusty and was wondering whether others thought if this looks like it needs replacement or a removal and inspection.

Also there are some rusty bolts that I circled that travel vertically up the wall behind the pintle. I don't know what these are holding, maybe the rudder post?


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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 24 Oct 2020 11:21 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
felizcortez wrote:
I've read through the articles on the website along with this thread and still am not 100% clear. If you remove the pintle and also want to drop the rudder, does the skeg need to come off? [b]YES. THE PINTLE BOLTS ARE TACKED TO THE PINTLE PLATE. IT ALL COMES DOWN AS A UNIT. If the skeg needs to come off, does it separate when you hammer on the pintle bolts from the inside? DON'T HAMMER ON THE PINTLE BOLTS (MUCH) UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO DROP THE WHOLE THING, INCLUDING THE SKEG. THEY ARE EACH TACKED AT THE HEAD TO THE PINTLE PLATE. Am I going to have to grind the seam to get it to separate and then fair it when it is reinstalled? PROBABLY IF IT HAS BEEN FAIRED. A CUTTING TOOL AND SOME TONGUE -HOLDING WHILE YOU FIND THE SEAM MIGHT BE THE BEST BET. Just looking for some more information here before I start removing the rudder as I'm still not clear on how this works. e.g. Is it possible to replace the pintle by only cutting the 3 inch access hole in the rudder, or does the rudder have to come completely off the boat and if thats the case does the skeg need to come off as well. IT'S NOT PARTICULARLY DIFFICULT TO DROP EVERYTHING. YOU JUST NEED TO HAVE ENOUGH SPACE TO THE GROUND TO GET THE RUDDERSTOCK COMPLETELY OUT. SO YES, WORK AROUND THE SKEG AND FREE THAT UP - YOU MAY WANT TO TOUCH IT UP, CLEAN IT, ETC. I FILLED MINE WITH FOAM AND GLASSED OVER INSIDE, LEAVING ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE PINTLE BOLTS TO DROP OUT AT THE TOP INSIDE. YOU MIGHT MIGHT MIGHT BE ABLE TO DROP THE RUDDER WITHOUT TAKING OFF THE SKEG, BUT I DID THE WHOLE THING AND REPLACED THE SKEG & CUSTOMIZED IT.

Attached is a picture of my current pintle both inside of the hull and out. It looks a bit rusty and was wondering whether others thought if this looks like it needs replacement or a removal and inspection. REMOVE AND INSPECT FIRST, HAVE IT CLEANED AND THEN DECIDE.

Also there are some rusty bolts that I circled that travel vertically up the wall behind the pintle. I don't know what these are holding, maybe the rudder post?
I'VE DRAW A BLANK. I KNOW WHAT YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT. I'M GOING TO THE BOAT RIGHT NOW. I KNEW WHAT IT WAS . . .DAMMIT.


 
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