Deprecated: Function set_magic_quotes_runtime() is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/tartan37.com/httpdocs/t37forum/common.php on line 88 Tartan37.com • View topic - Windlass

Tartan37.com

Tartan 37 Owner's Forum - Ride the wind, but look good doing it!
The time is 28 Mar 2024 08:02

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 Posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Windlass
PostPosted: 30 Oct 2019 16:16 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
Finding a piece of teak without costing an arm and leg is a trick. We only are going with 80ft of 5/16" chain, spliced to 150 5/8" 8-ply. East coast and Bahamas it's plenty. I'm very worried about weight in the bow. I put the teak down with 5200, not planning to remove it. Stays flexible and stays put. The strength comes from the sandwich of the deck. Got marine ply under with large fender washers. I've been seeing older Boat Life breaking down and becoming chalky. Just replace a thru hull, where the Boat Life sealant was just dust, after 24 years. This was found during the launch this fall, hadn't even messed with it. Had to come back out for a short haul. I've use 5200 if I don't want it to come apart. Use 4000UV for deck fittings and plastic, got to be fast assembling. 4200 or 4000UV on hull fittings. I'm not super afraid of silicone in the right spots, never breaks down, stays flexible, heat no problem and no UV damage.

_________________
Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Windlass
PostPosted: 31 Oct 2019 07:19 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I've always done polysulfide above the waterline and polyurethane below. 5200 for absolute permanency, but I've gotten it out of the way when necessary. I used 4200 for the pintle bolts this time around. I redid the entire hull/deck joint all the way around by digging it out some and re-filling with Life Caulk. There was old life caulk in there that remained malleable since it was originally done, with an obvious amount of butyl used in there somehow. I think the butyl was used at the aluminum plate and then the final fill was done with the polysulfide. I wouldn't bed underwater components in polysulfide.


 
 Profile Email  
 
 Post subject: Re: Windlass
PostPosted: 31 Oct 2019 08:00 
Offline
Tactictian

Joined: 16 Jan 2019 08:52
Posts: 103
In situations where a tough material is needed to bed such things as a windlass, when I worked in the marine industry in Hong Kong we would use Tuffnol in many applications. It was cheap and could be had in many different forms of sheet goods in many thicknesses. If left unfinished it retained its original brown colour and would hold paint well. Tough stuff and bedded with anything you would prefer to use including epoxies. I have no idea where to buy it in North America.


 
 Profile Email  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 13 Posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 6 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Registered users: Googlebot


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Powered by phpBB © 2002, 2006 phpBB Group