Lifeline Replacement, stanchion re-bed

alpinista · **Posted:** 13 Oct 2014 14:50

Betty Lou has new lifelines. We went with uncoated 3/16 1x19 with all new fittings. We had them made up for us at a local rigging shop for $645.00. I like them so much better than the OEM coated lines that REALLY were due for replacement.

We also re-bedded all the stanchion bases. That required cutting access ports in the headliners of the head cabinet, galley cabinets and port side salon cabinet. I cut ports in the headliner rather than remove the woodworking and headliner because I want to have easy access to my deck flitting going forward. This also gives better access to the wire runs concealed above the side deck headliners. With this, I now have re-bedded all deck gear except the genoa tracks... a job for next summer.

svheron35 · **Joined:** 15 Jan 2010 16:13 **Posts:** 54

This is a job I intend to tackle soon and will follow your lead in cutting access ports. I was curious as to what you used to cover them once finished?

puffcard · **Posted:** 14 Oct 2014 10:18

We're doing that now. Only have 3 stanchion and the bow pulpit left. We had 2 bases that were cracked and 2 stanchion that needed to be replaced. White Water Marine Inc is a great source for them. Also planing to add backing plates to the Bow Pulpit (can't believe it didn't have any).

I wished I done un coated wire for the lifelines, the only advantage is the vinyl coated ones are easier on sails and hands.

I found after removing the trim over the galley cabinets and cutting down the top of the cabinet with a jig saw where the trim covers you can get your hands and tools in there.

Here's some tips, that worked for me
When working with tools in the tight spaces, use a lanyard on the tool.
I used 3M 4200, for bedding and bevel top of thru holes to help stop cracks. Just bed holes. I don't agree with the theory, that you don't tighten all the way and come back latter and retighten. I think if the screw turns, it breaks the sealant around the screw.
Mask area before bedding. Take some easy release tape and mask the general area. Set the stanchion base on holes and run a sharp knife around base. Pull inside tape under base. Bed base, set & tighten up, clean and pull masking. Very clean job
Be careful about dropping (losing) the backing plates, I put a piece of tape on them to keep them up.
Use new hardware, replace with fender washer and self locking nuts.
Buy the hardware bulk, much cheaper.
Polish stanchions and bases while off boat. I use a drill and hand sewn buffing wheel with compounds.

Everybody has their way of doing it, but you will need two people.

alpinista · **Posted:** 14 Oct 2014 19:00

I don't know that I will cover the access holes. You can't see them unless you are pretty low and crane your neck to peek into the cabinets. I left a lip of headliner so that I can make covers and either screw them on or use velcro tape.

I also beveled the holes when rebedding, and used 1" fender washers instead of the half-inchers that were there OEM. I used LifeCaulk for bedding.

puffcard · **Posted:** 15 Oct 2014 15:25

Originally, I was going to use access plates because I had four of them. They're same size as OME dorade vent's plates 4". I'm now going to take some thin teak plywood 1/8", cut in square about 5"X5", round edges and screw into head liner with 4 small brass flat-head screws. You could also use a white laminated board.

Tartan37.com

Lifeline Replacement, stanchion re-bed

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