Water heater leaking

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I have the valve arrangement and have never had any reason to use it. it is just a nuisance I would recommend avoiding. Every so often the boat techs come up with a solution to something that should not be a problem in the first place. i think valves on the water heater are one of those. If you are afraid of scalding folks (a real possibility on a long engine trip on a hot day, you should probably put those safety spigots on the outflows.

Ray Durkee
T37 #373

cseltzjr · **Joined:** 16 May 2009 08:06 **Posts:** 251

Since putting Esprit back in the water this past July after 2 years of sitting, I have been having a problem with overheating. Yesterday on a 2 hour trip, the pressure valve on the water heater opened (I didn’t realize it until I arrived at my destination) and put a lot of hot water into the bilge. This was running at about 1500 and at that speed, under load, the temp sits just barely over 180. I’m working on the overheating problem. As I run the throttle up above 1400, the temp increases but it never “runs away”. At 1800 it climbs to around 190-200. As I throttle back, it slowly comes back down. I put a bucket under the exhaust and sampled the water after a run and it is pretty hot. I suspect the raw water side of the cooling system is being overwhelmed. I have taken apart everything I can easily get to looking for an obstruction but so far, no luck. I am stalling on removing the heat exchanger until the end of the season as I think the job could easily create the end of the season before I am ready! I am interested in any follow up to the pressure valve discussion. I am pretty sure the one that I have now came from a plumbing supply place at least 10 years ago. I am also reminded of our dear late friend Bob Engle, who bought hull 51 (maybe 52) brand new and sailed back and forth to Maine well into his 80s. When we bought Esprit, one thing he said was, “Always turn off the water pressure when you are motoring for any significant length of time”. That was the easy answer!

Maineiac · **Posted:** 23 Aug 2021 06:36

150 psi and 210F are typical settings for the valve, but sometimes they're lower. We've got domestic HW system tanks & pressure relief valves in these boats. Normally, with your home electric HW or gas heater tank, you're set at 130F max to avoid scalding. Now you're heating water to 180F plus and who knows what the psi is.

I'm sure there's some fancy valves out there that could be employed, but the purpose is to avoid scalding. Would a ball valve on the line incoming to the tank solve the problem?

cseltzjr · **Joined:** 16 May 2009 08:06 **Posts:** 251

My water heater is a Super Store. Put in almost 20 years ago I think. I replaced the 12 gallon Raritan with a 6 gallon. I am not sure the rating on the relief valve but if it was 150lb, the hoses in the fresh water system would burst long before that valve would open (or am I missing something?). I think the real lesson here is, don’t leave a 40 year old boat unattended for 2 years!

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

Based on what you are saying I do not think you problem is with your relief valve or water heater. Your engine is overheating and using the water heater as a radiator and that ain't gonna work with any relief valve. If you are running at low rpms and getting this--I think you have a problem in your raw water, heat exchanger system. You can limp into the storage season or take it out. I woud probably take it out. It is a bit frustrating the first time but it gets easier. If you have a W50 you are running at far too low an RPM. This could be part of the problem or just an index to how serious it is.

cseltzjr · **Joined:** 16 May 2009 08:06 **Posts:** 251

Thanks Ray, I know everything you are saying is correct! However I have not had Esprit in the water since 2018 and I would like to try and get the second half of this season sailing before I start tearing the motor apart. I have had the heat exchanger back cover off and that doesn’t look bad. I have back flushed the system, including the heat exchanger and nothing of real substance came out. I also filled the heat exchanger with white vinegar and let it sit for a fair amount of time (not overnight but for quite a few hours). The flush through came out blue / green but no solids. I am wondering if, over the 2-1/2 years the boat sat, the front end of the heat exchanger has some dried up crud that is not flushing through but impeding water flow. I don’t know what the front end even looks like! The motor has over 7,000 hours without giving me any problems (in the 22 years I have owned her) and I think once I start taking it apart, I am likely to uncover a Pandora’s Box of trouble! Thanks again for taking the time to weigh in.

Chip

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

Do you have the W50 with the oil cooler? The oil cooler was a particular problem with that engine because it was undersized and tended to fill up with salt and crud much faster than the main heat exchanger. I had a problem once with this causing and over heat situation.

cseltzjr · **Joined:** 16 May 2009 08:06 **Posts:** 251

I do have the W50 with oil cooler. When I commissioned this year, I took the oil cooler out of the raw water circuit. That revealed a leak in the exit nipple of the heat exchanger. The short hose between the heat exchanger and the oil cooler covered the leak. I have been wondering if removing the oil cooler is causing the problem but I don’t think so. The heat exchanger sits on an incline and I think possibly the top end dried out over the extended layup and whatever dried in place up there is hampering raw water flow. I think the only way to tell is to remove the heat exchanger and open the top end. I know everything you say about running these engines too slow is true but for 22 years I have been cruising this boat at 1800 with an over pitched folding prop. In flat water that gives me 6.5 knots or so. It never smokes, it starts right up and every time I have had an over heating problem, it was traced to an obstruction or a failed impeller. I have taken everything apart I can looking for an obstruction and the top end of the heat exchanger (the dark side of the moon!) is all that’s left. If I do end up re-powering, I will follow all the operating instructions. Right now, at 1400 the thermostat still regulates the engine temp. At 1500 the temp climbs to just a hair above 180. At 1600 a bit higher; close to 190. Only under load though. Sitting at the dock in neutral, temp sits at 180 regardless of rpm. I think whatever the problem is, it is right on the edge. I appreciate all the feedback. Thanks

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Water heater leaking

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