You can just fill the joint with west system 407 and treat it like bondo. You could do the same at the bottom if you like. I might put a couple layers of half ounce chop down there so it won't open up again, but no big deal. The top and lower sections of fairing have a gap between them anyway. I believe that's the design. Can't find photos . . . ah.
The new fairings (bottom only) are secured with 1/2" countersunk screws. I made up the fairings with 2 layers of 21 oz biaxial cloth, matched them the way I wanted them, cut them, smoothed them, then attached them with screws. No glass holding the fairings to the skeg. Then spooged them smooth. They're smoother than they look. And will improve over that once i get the white barrier coat finished. The black paint is Micron 66. It's friggin impossible to get paint in behind the rudder where it NEEDS to go (into that ecoystem), so I loaded it up some ahead of time.
To make the fairings, I screwed a 3/4" piece of wood to my wooden work table about 8' long. Then I put an 18" wide piece of shit lauan about 7' long with one edge on the 3/4" and screwed the edge away from the 3/4" piece to the table to get the curve I wanted. I had played around with a contour tool to get the curve I wanted. Just a tiny curve in the lauan. Taped wax paper on it and layed up 2 layers of biax. Cut the large piece in half once it cured and cut the 2 smaller pieces to fit and screwed them on. Deblushed everything and kept on keepin' on. I think it took less time to do it than to tell about it.
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Ruddeer Fairing Port.jpg [ 98.82 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
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