Questions from a possible soon to be Tartan 37 owner

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

Although it is unlikely to turn up in any survey, the salt water cooling system of the W 50 is a weakness. I suggest that you take it down to components ( replace pump impeller,remove the heat exchangers, and have them cleaned out by a competent radiator shop, replace the zincs). Doing the work yourself will not only save you a lot of money, it will get you familiar with the beast. Folks here can help you if you have questions.

ByronH · **Joined:** 27 Aug 2008 09:24 **Posts:** 40

The replies about the balsa core are right on. Just one further word of advice - be sure to re-caulk the fittings that go through the deck, particularly the chain plates. The caulking hardens and with the stress sailing puts on them, leaks can occur. There is a little plate on each chainplate, lift it, pry out the old caulking and re-caulk. Hope it works out for you. Mine is 30 years old in a few months and a great boat.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Thanks for the info. Been on vacation up in GA over the weekend. Home is Tampa Bay area and thats also where boat has been and would be kept. So, warm climate.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Survey is tomorrow along with sea trial. Wish me luck!

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Good luck! Supposed to be a nice day today here on the Chesapeake............

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Survey went fairly well. I say fairly well because the boat looks so great that was hoping for no problems! Although, with my limited experience I don't know but this may be the best survey ever on a Tartan this age or very very good survey on similar vintage boats for same price, etc. Impeller issue and no water from diesel after haul out (ran great from marina to boat yard) means we will finish the survey and sea trial on Saturday A few things popped up that will need addressed, but the main issue seemed to be old leak around the port side chain plate. I guess would need some serious pulling apart of the boat to see if the problem is big or small. I don't have a picture of it, but will get one and post it up. Any suggestions here? How do I go about deciding what to do without buying the boat and pulling everything apart? Also, I know surveyor will be looking at the deck and a few places that sounded dull on the tap test to determine any extent of soggy core on Saturday, and I still need to get the final report for all other problems found. Surveyor Rick Shelley is extremely thorough from my experience yesterday. Here is what I noted so far though:
resolution of chain plate issue
steering cable (little rust, little fraying)
lack of audible engine alarms and some form of ignition lock
rudder gudgeon/pintle (could grab rudder and move assembly a bit, but rudder itself sounded excellent on tap test)
loose stanchions
lack of shower pump
couple of nav. lights inoperable

Thoughts? Suggestions?

WayneH · **Posted:** 09 Oct 2013 10:52

Thoughts from a new owner of an older boat: Hull #287 purchased February 2011.

Chainplate issue: My port lower plate has some loss of coring around it. It's not a huge problem because we recently replaced the headliner on both sidedecks and I can get to the repair site from underneath. The port mainstay is more difficult to repair as you have to remove the headliner in the head which I have not figured out how to get out without cutting the liner out.

Steering Cable: IIRC, this is a fun project. A new cable includes a length of chain IN THE PEDESTAL. I HAVE NOT DONE THIS, yet. But my research goes like this. Place several pieces of masking tape across the joint holding the compass to the pedestal. Mark them with a magic marker in various directions. Use a razor blade to cut the tape. Now you can remove and replace the compass exactly as it comes off. You should be able to see the chain under the compass. Now remove the fastenings at the rudder and the pulley plate below the deck under the pedestal. Come back above decks and pull the chain and cables out. Drop the new chain so that the middle lays on the sprocket. Feed the cable through the pulley plate and refasten the plate. With the rudder centered, re-attach the cables to the quadrant. All done! Now, maybe someone who has DONE this can poke holes in my plan.

Engine Alarm: We don't have an alarm. We start the engine and look over the stern to make sure water is flowing and then maintain a careful watch on the gauges. So we probably would spot a problem BEFORE it gets out of hand.

Loose stanchions: Mine wobble but don't fall down. I'd be more worried if the BASES wobbled. But it's on our list to repair/replace as funds become available.

Shower pump: My box is not hooked up to anything. And that's bad. The sump box catches hair from the shower pan so that it doesn't go into the bilge pump and really create problems. On my list. still.

Nav lights: Which lights? Bulbs ok? My lights worked but drew about 5 amps running. Switched out with "Superbright" LEDS and now the amp gauge barely bumps when we turn on the nav lights. Each nav light presents its own problems with repairs/wiring runs.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Thanks for the info Wayne! With the chain plate, I'm actually talking about the area below decks where it is bolted to the bulkhead. From the port settee, we can remove a wood cap and see the whole thing. That's where the wood is poor from a previous leak. The other side of this attachment is in the head. I found a thread that talked about how to remove things in the head to get to the other side. On the stanchions, I am referring to the bases. Again this is the port side above the area where the chain plate damage. So, I need to get those bases attached better, find out what kind of balsa coring problems there might be, and make sure no more leaks. The Nav lights where the steamer lights on the port and starboard sides of the hull, and I think maybe the one on the front of the mast too. Those, I think I would just have the owner fix before sale.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 18 Oct 2013 11:40

The running lights are easily accessed in the fo'c'sle. Your surveyor should have a multimeter so he can see if there's voltage. (just a burnt out bulb vs. electrical issue)

The mast is more difficult obviously but he can at least check for voltage at the mast connection block. Hard to imagine an issue with the two wires running up the mast so if that's hot, it's probably just the bulb.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Thanks again for all the info. We closed and took ownership yesterday. So excited. We are meeting the previous owner at the boat on Saturday for some more orientation. Really nice that he is willing to spend some time with us.

Tartan37.com

Forum rules

Questions from a possible soon to be Tartan 37 owner

Who is online