just acquired T-37 (1981)

airedog · **Joined:** 09 Nov 2011 07:22 **Posts:** 69

I'm Marc (airethor) and and nesting into "Pilgram". She's in very good shape, I'm just familiarizing myself with the systems. 1st project is a barrier coat. Hull in good shape. Can't wait to splash her. I'm in Trappe Md and cold weather is fast approaching. My goal is Florida by Christmas, tho goals as flux to this retired mason.

My previous boat was a Cal 9.2, Choirloft, w/ is a fun boat to sail. I anticipate Pilgram will be as much or more fun.

Pilgram has nice amenities (Adler Barbour refrigeration, Cetec Benmar autopilot, Raytheon radar...none of w/ is new, but I hope all functional. Haven't tried yet. Putting batteries in today so I'll know more soon.

Westerbeke 50 for power. Quite a step up from Cal's Universal 11hp.

I'd appreciate any tips or notes of insight. Looking forward to being part of the Tartan family...

Your new friend, Marc (Airethor)

WayneH · **Posted:** 09 Nov 2011 09:29

Congrats, Marc on a nice boat. Welcome to the group.

Get spare oil and fuel filters and change out the current ones unless you have documentation that they are fresh. I changed the oil on my engine several times in the first two months of owning her because the oil was ugly the first two times we did it. Did not think about the amount of runtime needed to get the oil that dirty and so didn't think that maybe the fuel filter was just as old and dirty. And yeah, it bit me later when it completely plugged and the engine died. Everyone seem to love Racor fuel filters due to the ease of change out. (Another project for later on for my boat.)

Check the halyards if you haven't already. Mine slapped against the spreaders for a couple of years and were unreliable looking.

The cold water piping on our boat was original and started swelling at the pump so we replaced all of the cold water pipes. Well, except for the run from the pump to the head. That one requires some serious deconstruction of the entire head to replace. Ours all came out in fairly easily but they resembled sticks more than tubing and could be used to beat the previous owner senseless. Twisted Evil

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 28 Nov 2011 23:44

Wayne, I was contemplating changing out water lines (Hot to the head popped in the bilge crossing). But you're right... the dismantling of everything for a hose seems excessive. Next time you look at it, tell me what you think of lubing up a smaller line and fishing it through the existing one? It may reduce the flow a bit but probably not much. I still haven't checked all the angles to gauge feasibility.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

I have successfully pulled hoses through tight areas using the existing hose. If the existing hose is able to slide freely, simply cut it off at an appropriate spot, slide in a hose barb coupling and then attach the new hose to that. Usually, the hose barbs are tight enough of a fit that you just pull the assembly on through, but if you're worried that one might pull out, you could wrap a little electrical tape to help hold it in place. Hose clamps won't work, they'll get hung up on something.

WayneH · **Posted:** 01 Dec 2011 16:14

Down2TheC wrote:

Wayne, I was contemplating changing out water lines (Hot to the head popped in the bilge crossing). But you're right... the dismantling of everything for a hose seems excessive. Next time you look at it, tell me what you think of lubing up a smaller line and fishing it through the existing one? It may reduce the flow a bit but probably not much. I still haven't checked all the angles to gauge feasibility.

That's a good thought. On my cold water line, it goes under the port settee at right angles to the bulkheads and turns 90 degrees under there somewhere to go to the sink. I really didn't pay that much attention to the hot water line. I think you would get plenty of water but might have problems connecting to the old fittings as they are much bigger than the new lines. Unless you have some left over larger diameter hose. Then you could get a hose adapter to go from 5/8 ID to 1/2 ID hose. yeah, that's doable. And leaving most of the old hose in place provides chafe guards for the NEW hose.

Now I wish I had some of that old hose left so I could try out connecting the string or just greasing up the new hose. I'd like to do that BEFORE cutting the old hose out.

Tortuga: My old hose doesn't even budge when I tried to wiggle it. And afterwards, I had to wrap the fitting with teflon to get enough re-bite on the old hose to make it stop leaking under pressure. That's why I'm waiting on "Have to" to replace this one hose. Frustrating

airedog · **Joined:** 09 Nov 2011 07:22 **Posts:** 69

Oh by the way, my '81 is hull #347 "Pilgrim".
My original hope was to quickly ready Pilgrim and boogie south. After delving into work the wise decision is to stay and go over things. Change water lines. New charger: I bought a Charles 30 amp. (Feedb back?) Lots to do. Good thing is Gateway Marina here in Trappe is great! In all ways (other than being ritzy). Good knowlegable staff.

So. The bottom is stripped. Bought interprotect 2000 for barrier coat. Bought "Water Tight" for fairing. (Should I just use glass resin for filling sanding disk gouges and a spot of damage @ size of a golfball?)

Planning on a hard paint. Don't like the idea of washing off money...

So I'm living on the hard with Gabe my Airedale. Doing as much as my bad back will allow. (Work a day, recuperate 3?)...lol...but I'm retired, have no hurry.

In reading"things that broke" I get the willies...what should I absolutely check/replace?

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Congrats on the purchase! I know that the list gets daunting, but keep in mind, most things can wait and you can do them a little at a time. One thing that you may want to get a look at while the boat is on the hard is the rudder pintle. This will be difficult to get a close look with the rudder fairings in the way but if you get a strong flashlight and an inspection mirror, you may get an idea of what's going on, of course, if you can drop it, the better. The pintle is subject to crevis corrosion, especially the pin and the mounting bolts. There is a forum thread discussing this.
Is this a centerboard model? If so, get a look at the bolts holding the hinge plate on. And you may want to change out the pennant so you know what you're starting off with. This is an easy switch out and I usually do it every 5 years +/- using StaSet or
StaSet -X.

Just ask if you have questions.....
Cheers,
Tom

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 21 Dec 2011 14:34

Don't get freaked at that "Broken" thread. Some of them are one off happenings. But it's a good heads up for things to check on when you get a chance. Heck, some of them can't be prevented so it's not even that.
The keel thing for instance. If you pulled her one year and found a slight bulge on one side, you'd know to drill it out, drain it out, dry it out, and recaulk the keel bolt heads. That could save you my hassle.
Other things like the cockpit deck drain hoses, all it takes is a quick eyeball next time you're crumpled up in the locker changing your oil.

I feel for you on the back thing, and envy you on the retired thing. Sounds like you and Gabe are in for many fine adventures. Are you keeping the "Pilgrim"? High Flight is "Keel laid" '81 was well, so they're classmates of sorts.
Cheers

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