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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 12 Mar 2015 12:44 
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Tactictian

Joined: 16 Mar 2007 16:10
Posts: 143
Thanks Jay.
Is this a job that could be done alone or definitely a two man job?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 13 Mar 2015 18:52 
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Skipper

Joined: 10 Nov 2006 22:56
Posts: 171
Location: Portland, Oregon
Hi Mustangs,

It definitely helps to have two people for parts of the install. Solo you will need lots of clamps, and be up and down the companionway many times. Here is a pretty detailed installation report.

We spent a full week doing the job, with my shipwright working 6 days and myself there for the weekend days. It's fiddly getting the hole enlargement positioning just right, as it is tight to get the teak spacers fit. You'll have a fair bit of trimming to do on the spacers and the headliner teak trim. I also had to modify the fiddle on the top of the forward locker to allow the starboard forward salon port light dog to turn enough to open the port.

Having the drilling/cutting template was a big help, as was my laminate trimmer tool (with a flush-cut bit).

Jay

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Jay and Muki Kerr
Tartan 37 Betty Lou (formerly Rainbow)
Hull # 118, fin keel
St. Helens, OR
Betty Lou's Blog


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 04 Jun 2015 08:25 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
Sorry if I missed it but which model port lights from NFMs ? thanks


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 05 Jun 2015 11:25 
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Skipper

Joined: 10 Nov 2006 22:56
Posts: 171
Location: Portland, Oregon
8 x NFM 414SS 4" x 14" standard portlights:

http://www.newfoundmetals.com/portlight ... ndard#size

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Jay and Muki Kerr
Tartan 37 Betty Lou (formerly Rainbow)
Hull # 118, fin keel
St. Helens, OR
Betty Lou's Blog


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2016 10:47 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
A few thoughts ..
Just made the purchase... have one portlight out. BoatUS had a great article with tips on how to remove old portlight; March 2015 issue. If you use wooden wedges and a hammer, which I did, the old portlight comes off; both inside and out fairly easy. Forget about saving them because they will crack into as you remove them.

I'm not sure I really needed to purchase the teak spacers. I think all I needed to do was cut the screws off just a little and I would have been fine. With that said they look great; just adds a little more work.

Newfoundmetals could not provide me with a template and I waited and waited for them to come up with one or have one made. This was very frustrating. My local machine shop made me one. It is VERY important to have one. The use as a drill guide is probably the most important reason to have one.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 14 Feb 2016 11:44 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 01 Dec 2013 04:38
Posts: 31
Hi Mike,

I replaced all my windows 2 years ago, I was hesitant about the teak spacers as well, (increase price extra scam) but purchased them anyways. I was very glad I did. I believe they compliment the interior of the boat, and they also provide for a better fit in the v-berth as you can shape them to fit the port better. The most important part in my view, is that they reduce the overhang of the port on the outside of the boat, which is a HUGE ankle catcher and a bit of a safety issue when running around top side.

Just thoughts... Toast

Jeff


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 03 Mar 2016 07:00 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Jul 2008 12:51
Posts: 251
Well after nearly completing this project I've learned a few things about this upgrade...

You can do this by yourself, buy extra clamps

Here's my process:

1. Use a screw driver to pry the old port light enough to get a wooden wedge under it then hammer it to pry the fixture loose; may take several wedges.
2. Remove excess silicone from the old fixture
3. Use the template provided to mark how much needs to be routed and identify where the new holes should be. New Found Metals could not provide me with the template so I used the new outside ring to mark how much needed to be routed on the hole. Once that was done I inserted the port light/clamped and used it as a drill guide. ... this worked pretty good.
4. Once every is cut out I used a sander to the openings
5. If you purchased the spacer you'll find that it needs to be glued into place. I used 4200 and clamped in place over night. This not only firmly secures it in place but it provides a water proof seal between the spacer and the wall.
5. While the spacer was clamped in place I mixed up some epoxy using SIX 10 purchased at West Marine, used a small brush to laminate the entire opening ... this makes the whole opening water proof. Filled in the "old" port light holes also.
6. All the steps above can be done in one day, then the port light can be inserted the next day.
7. I used a countersink bit on all of the outside screw holes. This will allow the butyl rubber to spread into the screw holes for a water tight seal when you insert the outer ring.
8. Then you prep and insert the portlight itself... I used the butyl rubber provided and made a ring around the inside of the portlight with extra at the bottom... then insert the portlight... press firmly when it sinks into place. Then you'll need to use clamps to press it completely in and let the rubber spread out. Let sit for 15-30 minutes before continuing.. then the clamps can be removed.
9. Then prep the outer ring. I used an RV rubber/puddy tape to surround the screw holes and the entire gap between the wall and portlight. I took small amounts of the butyl rubber provided and circled each screw receptacle on the outside ring. ..then pressed it gently into place. Now you'll need to used clamps to bring the ring to the wall.
10. While the claps are in place I filled the inside screw holes with clear silicone then inserted the screws and tightened the port light up. You'll find that it will need to be tightened up over time, over night until it can be tightened up no more.
11. I used a razor blade to get the excess rubber off.

So. I found you can remove and prep each hole in one day... by yourself, then insert the new port light the next day. If you start early in the morning both days you can probably do several at a time each day. My advice is to do one first to learn from .... The most I was able to was to prep three one day; then install three the next. The whole project can easily be done in one week or less by one person.

Note: you'll need to trim the bottom of the spacers for the head and the starboard port light across from the head. Also,,,, the starboard port light across from the head will not open unless you trim the edge of the molding at the top of the hanging locker and even then the left dog will need to be loosened with your allen wrench to open. You'll know exactly what I'm talking about when you cross that bridge.
Note:I highly recommend that you remove ALL cushions and use tarps/plastic to cover areas where you are working.... The dust that will be created is enormous. I spent a full day cleaning up after I was done.
Note:I think the spacers in the Vberth are out of place and look odd against the white fiberglass so I did not install them and you'll also find that if you do want them you'll have to cut the top off of them because of the curve at the top. If you want to save yourself some money only order 6 spacers. The Vberth port lights without a spacer will take M6-20's. I think I used M6-30's on the other port lights. I purchased the M6-20's at Lowes and the others at Mcmastercarr.

Have fun !!!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016 10:44 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 09:05
Posts: 26
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
We installed the NFM ports last spring on SadieMae it took my brother and I about 4 days to do it. The hardest part being the removal of the old beckson ports. I had to basiccally chisel them out in small pieces. We replaced the teak ply around the inside of the coach house. As the old stuff was badly damaged by leaks and the removal of the ports. We added 1/4 " spacers behind the ply which ment we only used the teak rings from NFW in the v berth. And it left room for some of the new wireing for the new led potlights we installed. I would not attempt this job without the jig from NFW and you cannot have too many clamps!


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Hull 185
Toronto, Ontario.
 
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 Post subject: Re: Newfound Metals Portlight Upgrade
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016 16:55 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 01 Dec 2013 04:38
Posts: 31
Sadie May...

Its a small world! I have hull #186 and keep her in Hamilton. Perhaps we could share some stories next summer.

7165 Cheers


 
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