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 Post subject: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 10 Sep 2010 06:23 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
OK,
With the extreme heat that we experienced here on the Chesapeake this past summer, I wound up buying a portable A/C unit that stands on the floor and vents out through a hose that I stuck out a port light. The unit is very effiecient and puts out 12000 BTU's which is plenty to keep the boat at 72 degrees. It cost me about $300 and can stow strapped to the mast/table area when under way and I can take it home when not needed. I decided to go this route instead of installing a permanant A/C, reverse cycle heat because of the cost factor for the time being. If I wind up keeping the boat for a longer period, I probably will install a permant unit.
I also came up with the idea of installing a small overhead hatch, 12"X12", above the V-berth on the forward deck area. The problem is that the existing overhead hatch is too far back to get adequate flow over us while we sleep and sometimes the fans are just too loud. The additional hatch also allows more light to brighten things up a bit. I worried that breaking waves would find its way past the gaskets, but a lot of new boats have a hatch in this location, so how bad could it be?

Just a couple of ideas for all.....
Tom


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 15 Sep 2010 16:52 
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Skipper

Joined: 19 Mar 2007 16:40
Posts: 195
You would probably need to make sure the area you mount the hatch is pretty flat. It it's not maybe a custom built spacer to match the contour of the deck on one side and the flat bottom of the hatch on the other.

With global warming we slept with a down comforter all summer long. Too cold to open the hatch at night. Maybe you could give us our summer back next year. Very Happy


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 15 Nov 2010 11:09 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Nov 2010 10:11
Posts: 5
Tom,

Do you have specifics on the AC unit. It sounds like a simple solution to a potentially complex problem.

Thanks,
Poppy
T 372 Osprey


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 16 Nov 2010 07:03 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Poppy,
I ordered the unit from Costco for $299 after a coupon deduction, but here's a link that gives you other options:

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... DUQ8wIwBA#

This unit will store strapped in at the dinette table between the settee and the mast. I use a bungee that goes from the tension rod at the mast to a small pad-eye screwed to the face of the settee. When in use, I sit it on top of the nav-seat and vent it out through the quarter berth cockpit portlight. This unit self-evaporates the condensation, so no worries about draining it.

Tom


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 16 Nov 2010 08:27 
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Tactictian

Joined: 09 Dec 2007 21:03
Posts: 114
I have also thought about putting a hatch in the foredeck to improve v berth airflow. I decided against because of itspotential as a toe flesh removal device

We use a windscoop, or lift our hard dinghy which helps considerably. Some guys in the sea of Cortez anchor stern first (or use a line off the bow anchor to swing the boat around) to improve airflow.

It got HOT this summer, well over 100°F


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 27 May 2011 11:15 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Last weekend I installed the small overhead hatch on the v-berth. I will be anchoring out this Memorial Day weekend, so I'll be able to let you know how well this worked out for adding much needed ventilation.
The hatch is a 10" X10" stainless hatch from Hood/Pompenette that matches the other two hatches I already replaced.
The project went very smoothly and I am pleased with the look.
The basic steps are something like this:
* remove spinnker pole down-haul track and set aside
* locate the position of the hatch aligning the flange to cover the last hole from the spinnaker track
* double check location and carefully cut out deck with a jig saw and a carborundum blade, I have found that these cut through fiberglass much easier and quicker than regular blades plus they last a very long time.
*rout out the balsa coring with a deep rabbet bit, fill void with thickened epoxy. Tape epoxy to keep from sagging. Let dry several hours.
* I used a plunge router to carefully level off the deck to compensate for the camber, which was only about 1/8" from side to side. I built a jig for the router to basically plane off a skin of the fiberglass deck where the flange will be screwed down.
* Clean off deck with lacquer thinner to remove any residue or wax
* mark and drill pilot hole for mounting screws, countersink hole to allow caulking to form a good seal.
* use a good adheisive caulk (3M's 4000) that has good strength and UV resistance and can be removed later if necessary. Don't use 5200 !!!
* clean off caulk that squeezes out with lacquer thinner. I don't like waitning for it to dry and then cutting it away...I've not had as good of results with that method.
* Cut the aluminum spinnaker track to the new length and reinstall
* manufacture teak trim to finish off from below

This hatch is located just above where your knees would be in the v-berth and should funnel air over your body, this could be enhanced by adding a small wind scoop secured to the pulpit. If water were to ever forced through the gasket from a breaking wave, I could always add a breakwater just before the flange of the hatch to help, but I was going to wait to see if this is necessary. The gasket seals very well, when hosing off the deck, no water penetrated.

NOTE: the deck through this area was built the way it should....the area where the spinnaker track was trhough bolted had a plywood core for compressive strength and this was seperated from the balsa core by resin surrounding the plywood so if the bolts leaked, it won't spread into the balsa.


 
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 Post subject: Re: A/C and Forward Hatch
PostPosted: 07 Aug 2011 22:22 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 27 Apr 2008 18:41
Posts: 23
Thought I'd share my solution to this age old problem.

Had the portable AC unit with vent thru porthole, worked well but in FL the freestanding units just gave up the ghost in short order.

A $199 6000 btu window AC from home depot (with 5year warranty) built into the storm boards works like a champ!! Cheap, simple and effective.
Add in a honda genny and you have a blissful 72c in the heat of Florida summer, spent many nights on the hook with the kids in the Keys and Dry Tortugas and I can report it really works well. We even had it running on a hot sticky windless overnight passage and the crew slept like babies.

Enjoy


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