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 Post subject: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 05 Oct 2007 17:15 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 24 Oct 2006 12:51
Posts: 48
While the interior joiner work in our T37 is in great shape for a 25 year old boat, the cabin sole is not. The teak and holly veneer is stained and even sanded through in a couple of places. Has anyone replaced the sole? What approach did you take?

I have considered having strip planks milled to 1/4" thickness and apply directly to the existing 3/4" plywood sole(rough sanded) using epoxy. The planks could be held down with temporary screws and then remove screws and plug holes after the epoxy kicked. Would this approach cause any problems?? For example, would this create a problem if either water tank would have to be replaced?

Anyone have any experience with removing and replacing the plywood sole with another plywood sole? What did this entail?

Tartan37403


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 08 Oct 2007 05:47 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
I wouldn't try to remove the existing plywood for it goes under the port storage setee and under the nav drawers. It could even go under the icebox.Plus it contributes to the structure of the boat. You would be better off going over with another layer. If you do the 1/4 teak strips and glue these down with epoxy, make sure 100% of the existing finish has been removed from the original sole, or else the epoxy won't properly bond.


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 09 Oct 2007 12:15 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 18 Nov 2006 11:35
Posts: 18
I used pattern paper to make a pattern of the floor. I then cut 1/4" teak and holly plywood to fit over the old floor. You must epoxy the end and back of the plywood to keep any moisture out. After that I sanded the old floor woth 60 grit paper nad used 3m 5200 to glue the new floor over the old one. I added a small 1/4 round teak molding around the the whole perimiter. Put polyurathane the top to finish it off. Looks great I get alot of good coments on it.


Paul
#19


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 09 Oct 2007 14:50 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 24 Oct 2006 12:51
Posts: 48
Thanks for the feedback. The additional 1/4" ply sounds like a great idea. Should be able to sort this out for myself; but, do either of you know from personal experience if the additional 1/4 would create a problem if you had to remove a water tank, for example? If so, a removable molding could be fabricated for the perimeter of the plywood.

Tartan37403


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 10 Oct 2007 09:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
T-37403,
Even though I haven't removed the water tanks yet, I don't really see that adding a layer to the floor would present a problem of tank removal. The tanks would most likely be removed from the top and not the face of the setees by removing theplywood top on the port side and the sliding berth of the starboard. I have replaced my fuel tank and that was accomplished by removing the plywood top without much issue.
Good luck on your winter project!!! Very Happy


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 10 Oct 2007 19:31 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
I did remove my starboard water tank for repairs. To get the tank out you do need to remove the side panels that are attached to the floor. As long as the 1/4 round that you plan to install does not interfere with the side panels' removal, you should be OK. I haven't removed the port tank yet so I can't comment on that process.

Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191

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Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: cabin sole replacement/refurbishment
PostPosted: 07 Nov 2007 15:00 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 24 Oct 2006 12:51
Posts: 48
While our boats are not antiques(not quite yet), I do try to take a preservationist approach to as many projects as possible. I finally decided to try refurbishing the sole rather than replacing.

90% of my veneer sand through was around one small access hatch opening so I cut the plywood cut out larger to eliminate the damaged areas , then "framed" the opening with larger solid teak stock which I rabbeted to receive the hatch. Then, I used a non-acid, one part teak cleaner/restorer(Starbrite product, I believe) lightly scrubbed with a medium abrasive pad after first masking off the adjoining woodwork with 2" masking tape. Finally, finished off with a couple of coats of Watco teak oil.

This made a big improvement although not nearly perfect. I can always go back do the 1/4" plywood overlay later if I get more ambitious. Thanks for all the good ideas posted above.


 
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