DC Distribution Panel Redux

WayneH · **Posted:** 08 Nov 2020 10:50

Like most of us, my 12V wiring behind the panel is a mess.

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So first off I started looking for a wiring diagram that I could use as a template. Nope! Well, I did find one for a 1976 model. But it only has 6 circuit breakers. Impetuous is a 1980 model and has the bigger panel. But here's what I found for the 1976 model.

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Interestingly, the mast lights are on the engine panel?

I have already replaced my volt and ammeter with a single digital unit so what I really needed was a larger distribution panel. And someone on here was going to use the Blue Seas 8264 which doesn't have any meters.

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Cool. Still no wiring diagram. And we go sailing everytime we get to the boat so I never had time to fix the issue.

THEN CAME SALLY!

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The marina will be up to 9 months repairing/replacing the floating docks so....

I used the 1976 diagram for ideas and inspiration. The 8264 has three positive buses and three negative buses. I needed to split up some circuits as fans, 12V plugs and lights are currently all together. Too many things were wired onto the "Accessory" breaker. And so I used up a lot of the circuit breakers on my new panel. I decided to remove the bilge pumps from the distribution panel as they can be accidentally turned off. And there is no breaker within 7" of the batteries. So that had to be fixed also. I plan to install a 100A ANL fuse at the batteries. And a Blue Seas 5045 Fuse Block near the new panel. The top left circuit breaker will be removed from in series with the panel so it can be the "Main" breaker and upgraded to 30A. It is shown as "A1" on the drawing. "B1" is the top middle breaker and "C1" is the top right breaker. So, here's wiring diagram that I have created. Hopefully, it will help someone with their project.

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I simplified the bilge pump wiring for this diagram. They can still be manually run or use the float switch. What is not shown on this diagram are the two LEDs wired from the positive supply to the bilge pumps to the negative bus bar. These are mounted on the 12V box and indicate power from the fuse block to the pumps. I thought it might be confusing to see those wires on the diagram. This diagram was created on OpenOffice Drawing and exported as a PDF. It's available in either format but the ODG extension is not allowed on our website.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Wayne, thanks for this post. I probably won't get to rewiring my panel this winter but I will be glad if you have figured out a reasonable solution that I can copy! Hull 240 is also a 1980 model and I just checked the electrical diagram in the "Owners Instructions" book and it indeed has the 1976 diagram (WTH!). My panel is shown below and I assume yours looks the same. The charging station was installed there because it fit well in an existing hole for an old clunky Datamarine log. My volt meter still works but is redundant now with the battery monitor installed. The ammeter is disabled. So, I have that real estate to play with. I will be installing a new Raymarine electronics suite this year (Axiom, i50, i60, i70, VHF) integrated into my existing ST4000+ autohelm. The i70 MFD will be on the nav somewhere so need another cutout spot. I have a separate automatic bilge pump switch on the side of the nav panel already wired direct to the battery. Original bilge pumps on the panel still work, sorta of (I have to throw both switches for some reason). I'm interested to know how you plan to arrange your nav (panel, displays, VHF, AIS, etc). Please keep us updated on progress. Thanks.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Installed this new auxiliary panel last week but now thinking I should replace the main panel too. Any time I do any wiring in the back of the panel I end up losing my mind. So hard to work back there. And I had to replace my nav lights breaker which requires that you unscrew all of them!

WayneH · **Posted:** 29 Jan 2021 17:07

So I installed the new breaker panel and the power monitor into the cabinet. I brought everything home to make the cuts easier and neater than they would be on the boat. Which would make reinstalling the wiring frustrating except we labeled every wire when we removed them. The hole at the top right is where the Rule bilge pump switch goes. (PO) Under the hole is where the remote monitor for the solar panels and battery monitor goes.

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Oh, yeah. The new panel is taller than the old one but shorter. So I butted it up to the original opening on the right side of the panel. You can see where the non-varnished wood shows on the left side. The wife has stained that section and it is in the corner. And my response to people who comment on it is not to invite them back.

WayneH · **Posted:** 07 Mar 2021 13:57

So this last week, the Admiral and I and a GREAT friend did the rewire and installation of the new panel. Sorry, no pictures because we were working and not documenting. We pulled new wiring for the cabin fans and the 12V outlets. We used the rod fish from Harbor Freight to run the messenger lines.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch ... 65327.html This worked like a champ.

On the cabin lights: Our 1980 model had 5 wires inserted into one ring terminal. One line went to the quarterberth light. One line went to the chart light on the navigation station. One line went up to the light above the navigation station. The final two lines made a complete loop around the boat powering the rest of the lights. I believe Tartan did this to keep the lights working if somehow the wiring broke. But the boat is 40 years old last year and with it's track record we ended up splitting the lights into Main Cabin and Forward Cabin Lights. The Forward Cabin Lights are the head and both V-berths lights.

Next on our list is pulling new wire for the mast. I need to do a search for the mast wiring that someone has already documented here.

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File comment: Notice the corrosion on the terminals.

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File comment: I think I need a new drain hole on the bottom of the mast.

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Maineiac · **Posted:** 07 Mar 2021 14:38

The mast is easy. I pulled and replaced (with LED and new tinned wire) the masthead light, steaming light and spreader lights. I put on a new sending unit for the Raymarine wind instrument.

. . . and I don't see my underwater lights, house bank & windlass in the diagram (just kidding). But it's tempting to yank it all out and do-over.

Tartan37.com

DC Distribution Panel Redux

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