salon windows

Sweptaway3 · **Joined:** 26 Jan 2015 21:03 **Posts:** 6

has anyone ever removed the windows in the salon and added 1/2 of foam insulation and then replace wood and trim? I have had window leaks that had damaged the wood and would like to add insulation so I don't have to put the spacers back for my newfound metals port lights.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 06 Mar 2019 14:27

It does seem like kind of a flimsy coach house layup. I'd be concerned about the compression of the foam and any "give" that might occur as a result when you fully bolt the new portlights, possibly introducing leakage. I'm about to install Newfounds and I'm just clearing 2' centered around each port, installing new teak, battening the joints and following Richard's directions at Newfound. If you haven't bought the ports yet, I have the jig for cutting and drilling and I'd sell it to you for whatever the deposit for it was from Richard. It's just been subzero in the shed and I couldn't get anything of any consequence done. So I came to the Caribbean instead. Back in Maine tomorrow. Hopefully back in the shed some time this weekend. Yet it remains in single digits F.

Sweptaway3 · **Joined:** 26 Jan 2015 21:03 **Posts:** 6

the windows were already in when I got the boat. Evidently the originals had leaked and caused damage. Looks like they just put the newfounds one in over the damage but for some reason put the butal between the window frame and the teak frame. I have the jig and was planning on making a frame out of plywood and sealing it to in and getting rid of the teak frame. adding the foam was to help on the heat that comes with living on the gulf of mexico in the summer. I already had to tint the windows and added the silver bubble insulation to help keep the heat out.

Zoombats · **Joined:** 16 Jan 2019 08:52 **Posts:** 105

When I come to do the refit I have to replace all the port lights because the plastic ones all leak. As I am anticipating all the bad teak ply to be further ruined from the demolition I will prep the openings for the metal ports by blocking all around with 1/2" material and even at the top and bottom of of the cabin side to be infilled with 1/2" foam and skin with teak veneer. i need to replace all the head liner first so I will make sure the liner lands on the blocking where the cabin top meets the sides. I have the luxury(really?) of stripping out everything to replace all the failing and dated port lights making the finished repair suitable to blocking out and insulating at the same time with those dismally thin cabin sides.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 07 Mar 2019 07:50

Mine's a '79 T37C. The coach house teak and surrounding battens was installed into either green resin or resin'd to the coach house. The only way I can clear around the port holes to prep is grinding/sanding. I'll be using a palm sander & scraper. Don't want to change the thickness. The top batten strip is immovable. The Beckson or Bomar portlights had breaks and cracks around the edges from 40 years of beating and leaked in 3 or 4 of the salon/head locations. They're all out now, and like I said I'm just going to put 1/4" teak ply back in 2' centered on the ones that need it, and re-batten the seams. If it doesn't match well, I'll paint the ply white.

You need to make absolutely certain the length of the Newfound screws when assembling or re-assembling. That's why i was thinking the foam might cause issues. You get a screw that bottoms out before you're well clamped and you might have leaks. But I'm just speculating here. Insulating was an issue I hadn't considered. Might want to do it separately from the portlight installation.

Zoombats · **Joined:** 16 Jan 2019 08:52 **Posts:** 105

Here's something I came across. Don't know if any of you have seen it

http://nicknack.us/Ports_Part_1.html.

I will do mine at one shot with the blocking first glued in and dense foam held in place with mastic as I clamp in 1/8 teak over the entire cabin side. As I mentioned this works for me because I am going to replace them in one go. I can't see adding a visible filler piece to build out the port light. Might as well build it out on one plane and skin with teak. Adding insulation works for me in both warmer and colder climates and if you can add it at the time of rebuild... well why not?

Maineiac · **Posted:** 09 Mar 2019 16:28

The link doesn't work. VERY interested, though.

sweetjohn · **Posted:** 10 Mar 2019 11:42

when we replaced the old Beckson ports it was not possible to save the original badly deteriorated teak ply, and we did not want to use the NFM teak spacers so we laminated half inch teak ply spacers to the coach house and cut through it when we used the jig for the new ports. This asl gave us space to run new wiring for the led pot lights we installed in the new headliner we did at the same time. I think Half inch foam would be fine as long as you put solid material
around the ports so you can tighten them down with no flexing. we are very pleased with the nice clean finish of the shiny new ports and fresh teak!

Maineiac · **Posted:** 10 Mar 2019 14:42

So, before I go through all this (the Becksons are out), why doesn't anyone seem to like the Newfound teak spacers? I do like the idea of running the wiring, though.

sweetjohn · **Posted:** 10 Mar 2019 18:42

we did use the teak spacers from NFM in the v berth they look great against the fiber glass head liner in there. We did have to shape them a bit with a sander to compensate for the complex curves in there.

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