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 Post subject: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 31 Dec 2018 14:46 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
Last post on Hooligan (1982 Hull #370) refit was April 2017. Somehow go talked into going back to work, but sanity prevailed and I re-retired in early 2018. I have completed a number of smaller interior projects as well as major topside projects. Will post exterior projects separately (Photos attached).

Engine: Had leak in the fuel injection pump, which was sent out for rebuild. While the engine was apart, I cleaned and repainted individual parts as well as the block. Installed all new belts, hoses, filters, replaced the fresh water thermostat, added a coolant recovery system, rebuilt the Jabsco raw water pump and replaced the oil pressure sending unit. I couldn't find W50 red paint, so used Ford Red. AlSO, discovered that the injector pump bleed by the pencil point in attached photo consists of a banjo bolt which holds an internal ball bearing in place as the seal. Unfortunately the bolt was removed and the bb lost during bleeding. Fortunately my mechanic had a Holly carburetor rebuilt kit and the smallest bearing fit perfectly.
Engine Flush System: When the engine was apart I was surprised by all the crud in the old hoses and parts, so assembled a flush system (see photo). Pumped diluted Barnacle Buster into the engine using the raw water pump and let sit for 4 hours. Even with new hoses flow was about doubled - just don't leave zincs in the engine, because they will disappear!
Air Conditioning: Installed a Micro-Air "Easy Start" system on my Ocean Breeze 18,000 BTU unit and can now run the A/C while using my 2500 Max-Watt gas powered generator (no photo) at anchor.
A/C Sump Modification: Found my floor boards were swelling/sticking due to condensate in the sump. Modified & sealed the original refrigerator sump to eliminate the problem.
Galvanic Isolator: Haven't had a major problem with corrosion at my dock, but installed a galvanic isolator primarily for when boat is at other locations.
Spare Battery Start Switch: Hardwired an isolation switch from my spare start battery and installed a dedicated trickle charger.
Anchor Locker: Modified to accomodate 2 anchors on the bow.
Interior LED Lights: Replaced all fixtures or fixture bulbs (no photo).

If anyone is interested in more details on these modifications, contact me by email - telindsay@comcast.net


Attachments:
9-Spare Start Battery Switch.JPG
9-Spare Start Battery Switch.JPG [ 639.61 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
8-Battery Locker- Chargers & Galvanic Isolator.JPG
8-Battery Locker- Chargers & Galvanic Isolator.JPG [ 740.09 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
6-Galvanic Isolator Fault Indicator.JPG
6-Galvanic Isolator Fault Indicator.JPG [ 1.02 MB | Viewed 0 times ]
5-Galvanic Isolator.JPG
5-Galvanic Isolator.JPG [ 636.95 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
4-Modified Sump.JPG
4-Modified Sump.JPG [ 699.39 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
3-Engine Flush System.JPG
3-Engine Flush System.JPG [ 429.78 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
2-Fuel Injection Pump Bleed.JPG
2-Fuel Injection Pump Bleed.JPG [ 609.8 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
1-Engine Work Completed.JPG
1-Engine Work Completed.JPG [ 812.87 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 04 Jan 2019 21:08 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 520
The nicest looking W50 I have ever seen. Surely you had the heat exchangers blown out, right? The oil cooler seems to crud up very fast as it is tiny and the oil is hot. Also, you are aware of the great care you must take in putting the rubber cap on the end of the main heat exchanger? The water will not flow adquately if this is not installed exactly right.
Ray Durkee


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 05 Jan 2019 10:35 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
You are right - Didn't blow out the heat exchanger, but examined interior when apart. Since it is only about 3 years old, crud had collected at lower end, which I manually removed(and yes there was a piece of a pencil zinc there as well). You are also correct about the end gasket. The original was quite deformed, but my mechanic had several spares and I got one from him. It is about twice as thick as the original. Will ask him where he got them.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 05 Jan 2019 10:44 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
As a follow-up, my new heat exchanger has a flat brass cap with a solid black gasket that covers the entire inside surface of the cap. It is held in place with a single screw in the center. BTW, I have an "new" (unused) rubber cap for the old style heat exchanger that came in my Westerbeke spare parts kit 18 years ago.... If anyone can use, let me know - just pay to mail it there.


Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 05 Jan 2019 10:54 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
As a follow-up, my new heat exchanger has a flat brass cap with a solid black gasket that covers the entire inside surface of the cap. It is held in place with a single screw in the center. BTW, I have an "new" (unused) rubber cap for the old style heat exchanger that came in my Westerbeke spare parts kit 18 years ago.... If anyone can use, let me know - just pay to mail it there.


Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 06 Jan 2019 14:39 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 178
Location: Maine/USVI
If you get ahead of yourself, I'll buy you a ticket on Allegiant out of Sanford/Orlando and you can keep yourself all tuned up on my boat. Maine is beautiful in the winter.
Rolling Eyes It's in a shed, but you'll still need Sorels and a snowmobile suit.

That way I can get back to the Virgin Islands and get some work done. May have to come to FL anyway. There's a stinkpot single diesel in Cortez that's calling to me. Need to sail. Need to fish.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2019 17:01 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 178
Location: Maine/USVI
By the way: I was going to start tinkering with the diesel now that we're above single digits here north of the Mason/Kittery line. I was contemplating taking the heat exchanger to have it boilt out and repainting it and touch up the rest of the engine. I get the re-attachment of the cover and will look at all that very carefully when dismantling and re-assembling. You've already made me duly paranoid. Is that what is normally done with the W50 for cleaning though? Boiling out? I was going to do the same thing with the exhaust riser. I may be getting my terms wrong, here. My experience is with Volvos and seriously overpriced parts. But I've done a rebuild (quite awhile back) down to and including the big end bearings on the crank.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2019 22:41 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
Not familiar with a "boiling" process, however, I replaced the heat exchanger 3 years ago due to an overheating problem. First tried to clean original heat exchanger with mild acid wash, but problem remained, so went with new heat exchanger. After replacing both water pumps and installing new fresh water thermostat (in addition to the heat exchanger) I had the head pulled and sent to machine shop... turned out that after the head was removed, the overheating was caused by a bad gasket seal between cylinder 3 and 4 - allowing hot exhaust gas to leak into the cooling water. Fortunately, the pressure leak was sufficient to push gas out, but not bad enough to let water leak in. The engine has been running right at temp ever since.
BTW - biggest problem and delay was finding the gaskets and valve seats to reassemble the top of the engine.

Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Interior
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2019 22:46 
Offline
Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 42
Not familiar with a "boiling" process, however, I replaced the heat exchanger 3 years ago due to an overheating problem. First tried to clean original heat exchanger with mild acid wash, but problem remained, so went with new heat exchanger. After replacing both water pumps and installing new fresh water thermostat (in addition to the heat exchanger) I had the head pulled and sent to machine shop... turned out that after the head was removed, the overheating was caused by a bad gasket seal between cylinder 3 and 4 - allowing hot exhaust gas to leak into the cooling water. Fortunately, the pressure leak was sufficient to push gas out, but not bad enough to let water leak in. The engine has been running right at temp ever since.
BTW - biggest problem and delay was finding the gaskets and valve seats to reassemble the top of the engine.

Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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