New Hatch slides

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

Here are some projects I got into when repairing some leaks under the spray hood (another story).

I replaced the worn and soiled covering under the hatch with material obtained from the local sewing store. I also noticed that 28 years of the hatch sliding back and forth had worn the ?feet? down very thin as well as cutting a groove in the deck the hatch slides on. I rebuilt the hatch ?feet? using glass mat and west system epoxy thickened with WEST System 406 Colloidal Silica and filled the groves flush with the deck. I never liked the screeching noise the hatch made when sliding back and forth and thought this would be a good time to fix it.

I purchased some bondable, Virgin Electrical Grade Teflon? PTFE 1/8? thick and ?? wide available from http://www.mcmaster.com/. It is UV resistant, flame retardant and weather resistant and very low friction. I set it in some 2 part, 3M Scotch Weld, epoxy adhesive #2216 B/A, Translucent.

I did need to raise the wood rails holding down the sliding hatch by 1/8? using pieces of the Teflon strip under each screw. I screwed some of the Teflon strips under the teak fascia on the hatch, on both top and side, for the hatch to slide on the top ?rail? and it helps take up the change in height as well. I also adjusted the height of the hatch boards that I recently replaced as well.

The hatch now slides effortlessly and silently.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 28 Apr 2007 23:58

Cool fix. Handy pics. Cool

Tartan37403 · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 12:51 **Posts:** 48

Panacea,

This sounds like a good winter project to me. Help me out with a couple of questions. Does the teflon strip extend all the way back to the forward end of the sea hood? How did you get to the forwardmost part to glue down and somehow clamp while the glue was setting up? I had the hatch out years ago; can't remember if there is even room to get your hand up in there. How did you decide on this 3M product for adhesive-is this a Home Depot kind of adhesive? Would have thought the teflon would be impossible to glue-is it staying in place for you.

Any other ideas will be appreciated.

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

Hi Tartan37403;

The teflon strips extend about two feet under the spray hood. I felt it was enough, but you could easily extend it to the end of the spray hood. The 3M product was recommended by the good folks at McMaster-Carr and that it would be compatible with the Teflon. The Teflon strip is what they called ?bondable. One side is rough and able to take the adhesive.

The opening to the spray hood is about two inches once the hatch is removed. You will have to ?create? some tools to work in there. Like a small disposable brush (welders brushes work well) taped to the end of a dowel to apply the epoxy. A plastic sheet cut to size placed over the glued strip and held down with some wood strips helps to hold things in place until the glue sets up.

While you are in there check the far end of the spray hood for uncovered plywood that may wick water to other areas. See http://www.tartan37.com/t37forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=149&hilit=

Mark

Tartan37403 · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 12:51 **Posts:** 48

Thanks Mark,

The link over to the water intrusion topic is a good idea.

I was studying the pics again on the hatch slide repair and noticed something else. Looks like you have the center board winch off and the holes filled? Were you painting the deck by any chance?

The reason I ask is Spray(#403) is a 1982 model and her gelcoat is getting mighty thin. This isn't something I would want to have done because of expense and the problems of the workers creating new problems; but, don't know anyone who has done a do it yourself job on a T-37. Interestingly, my topsides are in better shape than my deck. If I do nothing else, I may paint the non-skid at some point; it is so porous that it is always stained with something and difficult now to clean.

Your advice is appreciated.

Ted

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

Hi Ted;

I had all of the winches, cleats, etc off for servicing, filling and redrilling holes and adding backing plates. See: http://www.tartan37.com/t37forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=145&hilit= The only way to really clean the base of the winch is to remove it. I?m glad I did, as there was an accumulation of 30 years of grease and grit.

Mark

Tartan37403 · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 12:51 **Posts:** 48

Mark,

You had a great idea. I just finished mine up today. Will post my experiences for others who are considering the project.

I had purchased some 1/8" teflon stock a couple of years ago that was also 48" long(from Woodcraft, I believe). I decided to use this since I could not find a 60" length which would have been ideal. I ripped off two 3/4" wide strips and roughed up with 80 grit paper. Couldn't find the 3M adhesive that you recommended. Got a couple of 2 part epoxy syringes for plastics at Lowes; a test piece I did seemed to work fine.

I installed the 48" strips at the aft end which left me about 11" short on the forward end(think this is what you did). In the last 1-2" of travel before the slider is all the way open, I still get a little "screech". If I had it to do over, I would have installed a 48" strip forward and an 11" piece aft for full coverage. However, that would have probably then required me to install some type of stop to keep the slider still in a seaway; this is some slippery stuff.

I had to slightly "relieve" the corners of the seahood to accomodate the slider's additional height. Suspect all these boats will have some variances in these tolerances. Finally, I used the teflon strips as spacers under the teak strips.

What a nice improvement-this has only bothered me about a decade!!

Ted

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

Hi Ted,

I am looking forward to seeing your pictures! I did put a stop at the aft end of the track. It was there originally to keep the hatch from sliding too far closed.

Mark

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