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 Post subject: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2016 13:06 
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Tactictian

Joined: 16 Mar 2007 16:10
Posts: 143
Looking for recommendations for an electric windlass.
Vertical? Horizontal? Brand? Model?
I'm not sure if this is a DIY project, any info on install costs will also be appreacited.
Regards,


 
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 Post subject: Re: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 30 Aug 2016 13:28 
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Skipper

Joined: 24 Sep 2013 09:20
Posts: 393
I have the Lewmar V1 vertical windlass. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... d=1332457.

Works great with the 35 lb CQR on our boat. A previous owner installed so I don't know about costs there and difficulties.

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Zach Duncan
SV Holiday
Hull# 280


 
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 Post subject: Re: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 31 Aug 2016 15:54 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
With the T37 being so weight sensitive in the bow. I would go vertical and do a 100ft chain and 250ft nylon for my cruising which is the Chesapeake Bay and Bahamas. 95% of the time you would be on chain, anchoring in less than 12ft most times.

Currently I have a vertical capstan and use 22ft chain and 300ft double braid. It works ok. Lots of pull and easy on hands. The capstan can be used for other things, like putting the dinghy on deck and pulling the boat closer to the dock.

Also add a saltwater wash down on the bow. My saltwater pump feeds a facet in the galley, the bow for anchor wash down, the holding tank to flush out and cockpit for fish cleaning.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016 11:23 
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Tactictian

Joined: 16 Mar 2007 16:10
Posts: 143
Thanks for the feedback and recommendations.

Regards,


 
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 Post subject: Re: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 16 Sep 2016 17:22 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 29 Jun 2013 09:23
Posts: 13
I did the maxwell RC10-8 vertical.

I have 160' 5/16 G4 spliced to 150' of 5/8 8 plait. I've only used the 8 plait twice in 3 years.

Mantus 45lb.

Battery cables run forward from house bank.

I use the wireless remote exclusively. Seriously easy.

Using the technique of never pulling the boat w/ the windlass, it works great. If I could have afforded it I would have gone up one size on the motor.


 
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 Post subject: Re: windlass recommendations: install costs
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2016 08:43 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I have had the Simpson Lawrence version of the V1 (it was the predecessor, no longer made but very similar 1000 watt unit) Vertical with a lot of chain. I have used it extensively for 20 years and rebuilt it once. I laid large cables from from the battteries forward with a breaker near the batteries. Reversing solenoid (you need power up and power down) lives in the port hanging locker. I recommend what others have said here with the following emphasis: there is no need to suffer the corrosion and failure problems with foot switches--get a remote either wired or wireless (probably both for backup). I do not recommend a rope gypsy on top of the chain gypsy as this is just something to trip over and catch lines. I use a lot of chain because I am sailing in Maine where we have some rocky places and sometimes deep, but I think that your rode situation depends on where you cruise. If it is all in the Chesapeake you do not need a lot of chain. I would recommend that you install a washdown pump to clean the rode as it comes up as it can get stinky putting muck in your bilge. You can plumb it into your head sink drain and put the external hose fixture right next to your waste flush fitting. As mentioned, you should also NOT use the windlass to pull the boat up to the anchor or break it out or use the windlass to tension the anchor in the bow roller---I destroyed the bearings in mine doing this. If you will ever be hanging on chain, you will need a chain hook on a nylon snubber line to avoid hanging the windlass directly on the chain and all the noise and shockload of that. I recommend installing a chain stopper between the windlass and the bow roller so that you can simplify anchor breakout and storage and isolate your windlass from these shockloads that will destroy the windlass bearings. Been there done that. Also, have a canvas cover made for your windlass as there is really no other way to prevent water from going down the hawse hole in the rain or in a bow wave. You will not understand how you got along without it.
Good luck. I have pictures, but have never been able to upload anything to this site for some reason.
Ray Durkee
T37 #373


 
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