Ice box surgery

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 191

Well,I bit the bullet and removed the icebox,very strongly built,probably more than the hulls on some lesser quality boats! Looks as if the top was built then layed upside down. The box then put on it and screwed on,then sprayed with 2 to 3 inches of foam.Then dropped in place and screwed from the sides [look on your boat for the plugs ]
Anyhow, I am in the process [winter basement project] of building a new box,much smaller.Second photo is yesterdays trial fit before insulation. I have put a 'floor' in the compartment, under which the compressor unit will live, box will be 5'' insulation on all sides. I am using a Seafrost ice bin system which Cleave is building as I type. Total is 3 cu ft with a half cu ft ice box section. It sounds small but,now built, seems a pretty decent size and should be super efficient,and my solar panels [2 135w Kyocera with a Rogue mppt] will be more than adequate for total energy independance.
Now its back outside [in light snow] to cut the wood for the lids, all 1/2'' ply,west epoxy soaked and glued and taped then it will be 2part poly painted. WHAT A MESS !!! Bruce.

7165 · **Joined:** 01 Dec 2013 04:38 **Posts:** 31

Hi,

Wondering why your switching it up, was the original one not working or leaking... or are you trying to save some energy?

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 191

Most of the above! The box held a large Tecnautics engine driven,water cooled system. The boat,when I purchased had a newly fitted Westerbeke 44b, the engine driven pump,plumbing etc was all disconnected and did not fit so I 'cleaned up' and pulled it all out. [anybody need spares ?]

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Looks like your new box is going to be well built but I never thought that the original box was that inefficient, or at least not enough to worry about. The lids on the other hand need to have better seals and better fitted insulated panels. I think that making the adjustments to the lids will compensate for a lot. If you are planning a trip to the tropics, then I might consider a rebuild................maybe.

puffcard · **Posted:** 14 Nov 2014 13:48

I was wondering did the 2"-3" of foam around the Tartan box seem to be in good shape, free of air gaps and dry? I was thinking of adding foam, but if we have 3" I don't think I'll bother and just insulation the lid. Did the top area outside the lid have any insulation?

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 191

The top was the thinnest,just the thickness of the fibreglass lid surround. The bottom and sides were in perfect shape,no deterioration,about 2 1/2'' of foam and near an inch airspace to the front and rear bulkheads. The foam in my pic is where a previous owner cut a hole in the sliding door cabinet bottom and poured in foam to fill the cavity to the hull side,the formica fridge top goes about 6'' under the cabinet,in fact I think the top is exactly 4ft X2ft . Have more pics if anybody needs further info. Bruce.

sord · **Posted:** 16 Nov 2014 07:55

I have been wanting to do some work on my fridge for a few years, but have never quite figured out how to remove the top. I am going to the tropics and figure the top needs a complete rebuild.

Can you describe the process you used to get the top off, please? And photos if you have them.

Thanks

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I spent a couple years in the tropics with my factory icebox and an ancient Adler Barbour unit mounted in the lazarette. Worked great. Main issue was that stuff froze at the bottom. I do not think I was using more than 70 ah a day even when it was hot. I note that some T37 do not have thick top doors---mine are probably 2 or 3" thick--and appear to be original. I gasketed them to seal them and I put stoppers over the drains as the cold will run to your bilge if you do not. My unit was full a lot of the time and this will save electricity as well. I also believe it is very important to put your compressor/heat exchanger somewhere where it can transfer heat (cool and well ventilated). I question burying it in the bowels of the boat where there is no way to get rid of heat. I used to deliver boats and was shocked by the dumb ideas for placing these units which generally were a problem or energy hog. As Tartan owners, we are very lucky that, unlike many production boats, S&S was smart enough not to put the icebox next to the engine---I will never understand why production boat folks do this.

Ray
Velera #373

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 191

Sord,sorry it took a while to reply.Here's a pic of the underside of the top. It was obviously built upside down,the top 3/4 ply was laid down then the top fridge section was screwed on [the screws with finish washers] , the main box was then put on top with 1''x1'' battens around the edge. Whole assembly then dropped in and screwed in from the sides and outboard end.There appears to be no way to remove the top without some 'destruction'! Also the cabinet behind needs to come out,that requires removing the fiddle by the sink !! May be easier to glue some insulation up inside.
Of course,now the cabinet is out I see a couple of marks indicating drips from the sail track so that needs rebedding !!!
Always something to stay busy,at least now we know how the box goes together. Bruce.

sord · **Posted:** 25 Nov 2014 22:13

Thanks. I am not sure we want to destroy or damage the box. Will have to take another look in the spring

Tartan37.com

Ice box surgery

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