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 Post subject: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 01 Jan 2019 14:19 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 27
Gelcoat Re-spray: After 35 years, Hooligan's deck had numerous worn spots in the gelcoat. Took the bold step to respray the gelcoat beginning with the foredeck. Worked with Fiber Glass Coatings (FGCI) to understand gelcoat requirements and ID the application process. I went to 4 paint supply stores and picked up sample white color chips. Then sent best match to FGCI where they made a custom color match. Removed as much deck hardware as reasonable, prepped the surface and taped the area to be sprayed. Applied 2 coats per FGCI instructions and it turned out great. Unfortunately, it was getting into summer and became too hot and wet (rain) to spray more area, as the gelcoat goes "off" in about 15 minutes and needs a min of 24 hours to dry, so switched to painting the deck non-skid.

Deck Non-skid: Used a 1 part polyester topcoat from Jamestown Distributors (TotalBoat Wet Edge in Sand Beige). Applied 2 coats and used new throw-away trim brush and rollers for each coat. Paint dries to touch in a couple of hours and can be recoated in 24 hours. Turned out great, but will have to see how this paint holds up in the Florida sun.

Lessons Learned: As with any project, prep is everything! Get the right cleaning and thinning solutions, application equipment and be prepared for hours of taping.

Steering Pedestal: Had repainted the steering pedestal several years ago, but it
had some cracks and chips that weren't getting any better. Sanded to metal and applied an etching primer, followed by an epoxy white spray (from can). The epoxy paint is about 3 times expensive, but I would expect it to last longer than spray enamel.
Again, prep is everything.

Note: Wasn't able to post photo of the bow locker modifications on my previous post, so have included it here. If anyone wants additional information on any of these projects, contact me at telindsay@comcast.net


Attachments:
13-Gelcoat Spray Prep - Bow.JPG
13-Gelcoat Spray Prep - Bow.JPG [ 586.37 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
12-Worn Gell Coat spots - Bow.JPG
12-Worn Gell Coat spots - Bow.JPG [ 527.94 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
20-Deck Repaint Complete-2.JPG
20-Deck Repaint Complete-2.JPG [ 638.55 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
19-Deck repaint Complete-1.JPG
19-Deck repaint Complete-1.JPG [ 715.59 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
18-Cockpit Repaint.JPG
18-Cockpit Repaint.JPG [ 484.89 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
16-Deck Repaint - Sand Beige.JPG
16-Deck Repaint - Sand Beige.JPG [ 836.69 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
21-Steering Pedestal & Cockpit repaint Complete.JPG
21-Steering Pedestal & Cockpit repaint Complete.JPG [ 584.34 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
10-Anchor Locker Modifications.JPG
10-Anchor Locker Modifications.JPG [ 620.58 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 07 Jan 2019 18:34 
Offline
Tactictian

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 100
Location: Maine/USVI
What did you use to spray the gelcoat with? Beautiful results all the way around.

I got a chill looking into the anchor locker. Spent most of Sunday morning in there. Thinking about reaching everything with the plywood divider in the way. But staring at it gave me an idea. I wonder if I could glass two 1" pieces on each side to act as a receiver to slide a divider into that would be removable? Or some such thing so the plywood could come out if desired.

After a half hour in there undoing deck hardware, I asked my son if he was having difficulty holding the screwdriver up above. We switched places.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 08 Jan 2019 13:17 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 485
Anchor locker: I put some of that interlocking rubber floor covering in my chain locker. Helps quiet the chain noise of the boat is rocking and eliminates chafe on the hull from the chain. It does not look as nice as this, but it is quite functional.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 09 Jan 2019 12:32 
Offline
Tactictian

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 100
Location: Maine/USVI
Great idea, and it will be instituted as soon as I get all of the extraneous stuff done and the locker painted out and some kind of divider in there for all chain and chain and rode setups.

Took the pintle assembly to the machine shop in Ellsworth yesterday. Kinda ugly, but the machinist asked "why replace? I can clean this up like new." I asked him to double check it after clean up. He's going to give me nyloc nuts for the bolts, weld the bolt heads all the way around, re-weld the 1" pintle pin all the way around and turn me a new bushing. I also asked for a bunch of aluminum plates to back the pulpit bases. He's doing some touch up on the pulpit as well. It looks like it had water in it at one time, froze and split one of the tubes.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 09 Jan 2019 18:11 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 485
Where did you do this work? I keep my boat at Seal Cove. You must be close if you are going to Ellsworth.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 09 Jan 2019 18:33 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 485
Where did you do this work? I keep my boat at Seal Cove. You must be close if you are going to Ellsworth.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019 20:31 
Offline
Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 27
Good idea about using slats to insert 2 anchor chain/line separation. I have to admit that when I was spraying gelcoat on the foredeck and had removed deck hardware, I had a "bit" of a time accessing the backing plates and nuts when ready to replace. I used several cushions to make a "soft" surface at same level as the bottom of anchor locker access frame. I could then lay on my back fairly comfortably and reach all backing plates and nuts. It was actually more difficult to paint the anchor locker interior as I had a hard time being on my back and accessing the paint bucket . solution was to attach the 3" brush I was using to an extension and then lean in thru the locker frame. Admittedly a bit awkward, but solved the problem of reaching the forward surfaces of the locker.

Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019 20:53 
Offline
Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 27
I sprayed the gelcoat using an 8 gal, 95 max psi air compressor and gravity feed paint spray gun. You do not need a giant compressor system as the gelcoat is applied at 40-45 psi. Just need enough capacity to keep the required psi at the spray gun at all times when spraying. Experimented with 5 different mix ratios (min to max recommended rates) and ended up using the thinnest mix. The gelcoat goes off in approximately 15 minutes, so prepped small areas. FGCI recommended I mix the gelcoat and hardener in a container that was placed in an ice bath to slow down the chemical reaction. Helped a little, but biggest pain was if I didn't get the spray gun parts in to a solvent bath quickly, the gelcoat set-up in the gun and was very difficult to remove. I covered all non-taped areas to avoid overspray. Will use plastic instead of paper (I used the highest quality paper I could find) in future on flat surfaces as the paper gets soft when wet, although tape did not separate and paper was almost back to original condition when it dried out.

Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 10 Jan 2019 20:53 
Offline
Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 11 Jun 2014 13:56
Posts: 27
I sprayed the gelcoat using an 8 gal, 95 max psi air compressor and gravity feed paint spray gun. You do not need a giant compressor system as the gelcoat is applied at 40-45 psi. Just need enough capacity to keep the required psi at the spray gun at all times when spraying. Experimented with 5 different mix ratios (min to max recommended rates) and ended up using the thinnest mix. The gelcoat goes off in approximately 15 minutes, so prepped small areas. FGCI recommended I mix the gelcoat and hardener in a container that was placed in an ice bath to slow down the chemical reaction. Helped a little, but biggest pain was if I didn't get the spray gun parts in to a solvent bath quickly, the gelcoat set-up in the gun and was very difficult to remove. I covered all non-taped areas to avoid overspray. Will use plastic instead of paper (I used the highest quality paper I could find) in future on flat surfaces as the paper gets soft when wet, although tape did not separate and paper was almost back to original condition when it dried out.

Tom Lindsay
Hooligan #370


 
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 Post subject: Re: Hooligan Refit Continues - Exterior
PostPosted: 12 Jan 2019 19:39 
Offline
Tactictian

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 100
Location: Maine/USVI
I'm between Belfast and Hermon. The boat's in Winkiepot in the back of a shed. C&C Machine on the Bucksport Rd. just outside of Ellsworth could handle what I needed for stainless work. Great shop. He said "a few weeks," and its not like I need it right now. I haven't even ordered the fairing yet. It's 3 friggin' degrees in the boatshed anyway.

The white above decks was painted with 1 part poly (probably Brightsides) at some point in the past. I was thinking I could strip it without much ado, cut and fill cracks and whack everything once with the sprayer. One part something or other on the nonskid. All I can do in these temps, except belowdecks where I have an oil filled electric heater, is prep, scrape the bottom (I got a 4' handle floor scraper at Harbor Freight that seems to be working well), maybe cut out the through hulls and replace the ballcocks. None of the valves look like their easy to get at, replace, etc., but the stuff like dropping the rudder and getting the Newfound portlights set up for warm weather installation comes first, so I haven't really looked that hard.

I thought about valves on the cockpit scuppers. If I do that, I may go with marelon. They'd almost never get closed, but jeez I hate to have extra holes in the hull. The hoses need to be crossed, too.


 
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