Replacing/upgrading traveller...input appreciated!

rdannap2 · **Joined:** 05 Jun 2012 22:14 **Posts:** 11

We've decided to upgrade our very basic traveller with a Lewmar traveller kit - Size #2. One attractive feature is being able to use the same deck/hood holes as the original traveller. We soon realized the original hold-down screws were not through-bolted in the cabin top but rather captured with female threaded hardware affixed to the inside of the hood. The two teak support brackets for the ends of the traveller are through-bolted to the deck, but they seem independent of the hold down screws that attach the original track to the teak support brackets.

The screws that go through the track and into the teak supports do not budge. I used PB blaster, screwdrivers with wrenches and started to drill out one of the beefy screws and stopped. It was taking forever and I thought I'd humble myself and throw my task out to my salty T-37 colleagues. All ideas and input on removing the old track are welcome.
Rick
Annapolis
S/V Montego

puffcard · **Posted:** 15 Sep 2013 19:41

Did you drop the headliner? I thought I remember that there were nuts and washers on the bottom of the teak thru bolts. You can lift the companionway sliding hatch out of the way by removing the the top two pieces wood on the side. With the hatch out of the way you can thru bolt the new track. I went with Harkin and love it.

rdannap2 · **Joined:** 05 Jun 2012 22:14 **Posts:** 11

Thanks for checking in. I didn't drop the headliner panel but removed some of the teak battens and peeked above the headliner and saw the thru-bolts of the teak traveller supports. The distance between the two bolts was greater than the distance between the two screws that secure the track to the teak support bracket. My conclusion is that the teak support thru bolts can remain and I simply need to get the frozen hold down screws out of the old track. Rick

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

If I remember correctly, they used extra long bolts that go through the track, teak and deck. You will need to access the under-deck hardware to remove. I replaced mine with a Garhauer unit which has a taller track and needed longer through bolts. I would up using 3/8" 316 stainless all-thread with a acorn nut on the top to finish it off. I also up graded the backing plate to help spread out the load better. The Garhauer unit is designed to span from one end to the other so the bolts to the sea hood just add a little extra support.

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

While contemplating changing the traveler and with the knowledge that the original track was told to be extremely difficult to remove due to ss bolts seized in the metal backing plate, I thought I would just mount the new track right on top of the old one. I thought I might drill and tap holes in the old track corresponding to the holes in the new. One might have to grind the old track flat in order to have a stable interface between it and the new.

Sound crazy????

puffcard · **Posted:** 23 Sep 2013 10:31

Get a cordless impact drill with good quality bits and the screws should back out.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

I don't think I would mount one track over the other....seems odd. Try some PB Blaster penetrating oil before trying the impact driver to help loosen things up. Do it the night before.

puffcard · **Posted:** 23 Sep 2013 21:54

I wouldn't mount a track on top of another track. I agree with the PB Blaster penetrating oil, go after it with the impact drill. The ones that don't turn, take a grinder and come at the flat head screw in the waist of the track. After the head is cut, lift the track up and grab what's left of the screw with vise-grips.

Tartan37.com

Replacing/upgrading traveller...input appreciated!

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