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 Post subject: centerboard
PostPosted: 01 Jul 2013 14:04 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 31 May 2013 12:27
Posts: 6
greetings everyone . . .

this boat is new to me and so I am running through the systems. "Veracity" is on the hard right now for some repair work due to Hurricane Sandy. Looking at the bottom of the keel I see 6 bolts. I'm guessing that these bolts hold in the centerboard pivot pin housing, is that correct? I'm also guessing that there are not nuts on the other side of these bolts but rather there is a threaded female sleeve embedded in the glasswork. I was intending to remove the bolts and check the pin housing. Anything I should know about doing that? anybody ever remove the centerboard while on the hard? I have a good 12-18" of clearance between the ground and the bottom of the keel and the entire centerboard sleeve is open. Thanks.


 
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 Post subject: Re: centerboard
PostPosted: 01 Jul 2013 19:23 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Those 6 bolts do hold the centerboard hinge pin. The pin is fabricated from 2 pieces of SS angle iron with a SS rod about 1" diameter as the shaft on which the CB rotates. That shaft is welded to the angle iron on one side and threaded on the other so it can be removed from the CB. Those 6 bolts are threaded into a plate embedded in the keel. I don't know the material of the plate, but it's not unusual for the threats to fail when you remove the bolts. If that happens, drill the embedment to the next larger size, tap new threads, and insert larger bolts or use SS lag screws.

Now for fully removing the CB, you'll need to have the boat at least 2 to 2 1/2 ft off the ground (greater than the max. width od the CB plus about 3" 6"). You'll also have to have special blocking at the aft potion of the keel. The reason for this is that you need to pull the CB aft about 2 ft when you lower it so you can get the top part of the CB to clear the pocket that it rotates into when it pivots around the pin. To do this the aft blocking needs to be built like a bridge (i.e., large blocks on either side of the keel with a stout member bridging between the two) so the CB can side in between as you pull it aft.

With it only 12" to 18" off the ground, you can lower it enough to remove and inspect the hinge pin, which is a good idea, since the pin has had a history of suffering from pitting at the weld area. To make it easier, I used a floor jack to lower the board after the hinge pin bolts are removed.

I realize my description may be a little hard to visualize, so if you'd like, I'd be please to discuss it with you back channel.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: centerboard
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2013 05:37 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 31 May 2013 12:27
Posts: 6
Thanks Jim. Your description makes complete sense. A couple of follow ups. Posting them here rather than PM because others might benefit.

How much does the centerboard weigh? Is it ballasted at the lower end? Any zincs in the area to protect the pivot assembly from electrolysis?

-David


 
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 Post subject: Re: centerboard
PostPosted: 02 Jul 2013 06:29 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
The CB weighs about 125lb. The lower portion is ballasted with lead shot as I understand. There are no zincs.

Even though you didn't ask, the other critical potential failure point is the padeye which is attached to the pennant. It's embedment plate is prone to rusting and failure. This has been discussed many times on this forum and Tortuga's Lie has a great solution which I adopted.

Hope this helps.

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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