Inverter/Charger

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 16 Jun 2009 19:54

A couple questions on the install. Working the upgrade while she's keel-less.

T37sailor wrote:

ANL fuse that is between the alternater and the engine battery.

What's the rating? Why the T Class for the inverter and the ANL here? Why none on the House?

Battery switch and combiner. Exactly the setup I'm looking for I think. House runs house, starter runs starter and charger or alternator will charge both all the time.
1. How's this look. Blue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Same deal but in one package (and marked up no doubt).
2. Do the alternator and charger tie in at the same place? And where is that? Blue Sea instructions leave it out but I'd guess you could tie in on the positive bus for the house and it'll connect to the positive on the starter when 13.5V is sensed.

I need to go draw this out.

T37sailor · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 16:10 **Posts:** 61

I need to update this posting as I recall I have made some modifications over the past year or so. I do have this line drawing of the setup I got from Jack Rabbit

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One of the major deviations from this plan to my setup is the wiring to the engine. I don't have separate alternator and starter cables on my W50. So, I needed to make some changes to accommodate this difference.

Another point I would like to make. I believe the ABYC standard calls for a switch from the house bank to the inverter/charger in the positive leg. I have not installed this yet. So, when I had to do some trouble shooting on my AC wiring (turned out to be the shore power connection) I was very nervous. Without the switch in the positive DC cable to the inverter, the only way to "turn off" the AC load completely is through the Link2000. I had to put a lot of faith in that little bit of electronics.

I'll be adding that switch soon.

I will update next week after I refresh my memory...

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 19 Jun 2009 00:11

Nice diagram. Thanks for the tips. Now to figure out where to put all this stuff. I hate to impede access to the engine from the quarter berth. (I fit perfectly in there for changing the impeller) But that may be the only place for the house.
Our inverter (13 years, never hooked up the inverter side) is in the starboard locker, high and outboard. I'd love to put the house on the Starboard to help with the list but that's just a pipe dream.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 26 Jun 2009 18:39

Just found the sleeper cost. Got all the parts and now I'm shopping cable to connect it all together. Wow!

alpinista · **Posted:** 30 Jun 2009 11:11

I bought a crimper from West Marine and ordered cable from the internet and made up my own cabling. Saved a ton over ready made, but the crimper (just a simple hammer type) was expensive.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 30 Jun 2009 22:17

Yeah, I saw that one. About $90. I also did some searching and found the same model used to cost $40 not so long ago. Odd. Saw a cheapie for $30 but it didn't look like it would do a good job.

I have a total of 10 cables I need fabricated from scratch with 18 lugs. So the $1 per lug deal seemed best. I'd have to find a lot of cable work to justify the crimper. Probably should have looked into rentals.

Lesson learned for the day: Even if you think you're just going to sand Epoxy and no glass, don the protective gear.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 15 Jul 2009 22:43

Here's my version of the electric diagram. This is what I'm ending up with and will be testing later in the week hopefully. Just one missing cable to grab and I'm good to go.

A few differences from Craig's install and the diagram he provided:
1. ANL fuse is off to the side. ANL is for the alternator, but the W50 send one line back for alternator and starter. I'm not sure I want to run my starter through a fuse. Make sense? I have a 100A fuse for the ANL. Would that be enough for the starter?

2. Again, the combined engine cable means the alternator feeds the starter battery side. No way to separate that. The charger feeds the house side. The combiner should join the two if either is charging as long as the switch is on. With the switch off, the alternator is disconnected, but you can't run the engine with the switch off anyway.

3. We're daysailors most of the season. After seeing the specs on the T105s, I decided that 2 would be plenty of capacity for house.

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Noco Batt box and a freshly painted space.

Original batt tray stays in place. Lower shelf will be used for storage. Note, My Dad has the exact same "#2" written on the edge of the shelf as I'm sure you all have. Think I saw it in a previous pic. It's before the days of Sharpies... must be "El Marko".

Put all the gear in today, but no pics until it's finalized.

Tartan37.com

Inverter/Charger

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