Tartan 37 hatches

jClubley · **Joined:** 27 Apr 2008 18:41 **Posts:** 23

I ended up going with the low profile hatches from ManShip, they are stunning!!
The only problem is the footprint of the base of the 24*24 is slightly smaller than the original exposing the screw holes so we have some filling/gelcoat work to do to hide them.

The old hatch came off very easily, no 5200 or anything like that just some putty like material.

When fitting the new hatch should we screw it into the deck like the existing hatch was or is it better to thru bolt it? Any advice from somebody how has done it would be great.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I did not install new hatches but had to reset the AH original hatches and had this same question. One thing I observed is that my AH hatches started to leak after 23 years through the wood frame from around the screws that were self tapped into the boat deck. The actual hatch was still fine as was the gasket that I had replaced thinking it was leaking--it wasn't. What I did not realize is that apparently the boat twisting around the forward hatch (fiberglass does move) when pounding into some significant head seas for days on end (I have done some long passages with this boat) does seem to loosen the screws and frame. I had water running down into the deck house core and making leaks appear around the forward windows the the through bolts for the handrails--but neither the window nor the through-bolt for the teak rail was the problem. The water was migrating from the self tapping screws through the core to come out in several places. I struggled with your question and then concluded that through-bolting would not solve the issue: if the hatch opening is moving some, it would not matter if it is through bolted or simply self tapped screwed on--it will eventually leak if it is not periodically maintained (my original hatch had not leaked for 20 years) and resealed. Here is what I did:

1. Took off the hatch (impact driver needed for some of the screws, tops turned off a couple, had to drill them out). Dried everything out well. This was easy as I was in Central America at the time.
2. Bored out the old screw holes in the deck with an oversized drill and filled them with epoxy paste with with the hardest filler (I think it was #403).
3. I reinstalled the hatch with just a little larger screws (the next size will still fit flush with the frame). I had to pre drill these holes so as not to crack the new based for them (the factory set them in just the deck and balsa which is not consistent with the build quality elsewhere on this boat). I used almost a complete caulking tube of 4200 to set this frame and all the screws.

No more leaks from window, teak handrail, or hatch for last couple years. Had no idea water was coming from these screws to these places.

Adam135 · **Joined:** 05 Feb 2009 22:21 **Posts:** 22

Jay wrote:

I replaced both Atkins Hoyle hatches with Lewmar Ocean Series 30 (12"x17"), part # 39630050 (main) and Ocean Series 70 (24"x24") , part # 39670050 (forward) hatches. Be sure to get the Lewmar hatches with the flat base. Installation is straight forward other than having to cut notches in the fiberglass to allow room for the hinges to fully close. The Atkins Hoyle hatches are excellent heavy duty hatches that have as an added benefit the ability to easily switch forward or aft hinge positions. If at all possible I recommend you replace the lenses rather than replace the hatches. In my case, I did not have a choice as the arms and springs which keep the AH hatches open were broken or missing, and AH could not provide replacement parts. Mauri Pro sailing had the best price on the Lewmar hatches, but you'll probably to get an even better price if you wait until the Miami boat show sale discounting occurs in February. Jay.

Can you please post some pictures of the notches you had to cut to make this work? I'm going to replace my hatches but I'm curious how much modulation will be necessary.

Thanks!!

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Tartan 37 hatches

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