Getting at deck gear.

alpinista · **Posted:** 07 Jan 2007 14:44

Has anyone removed the panel that conceals the hull/deck join and deck hardware from the cabinets in the salon? I want to re-bed my stanchions, add some additional hardware, and run new wiring. I'd love to have easier access to this area for more frequent inspection, maintenance, etc.

It looks like getting the overhead panes out involves removing major joinery, including drilling out teak plugs over the screws. Has anyone done this, and/or modified things to make access easier?

Thanks --

Jay

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 07 Jan 2007 17:43

We've had the overhead off in parts on a couple occasions. Guess that's why the mention of teak bungs seems foreign to me. I don't recall ever having them plugged. We just take off the needed teak strips (held on with small wood screws). Never re-plugged but that shouldn't be very difficult. As for removing any bungs you have... never done that part. I'd hope you could avoid drilling.

alpinista · **Posted:** 08 Jan 2007 03:38

I'm talking about the overhead INSIDE the port side cabinets and starboard side pilot berth and galley cabinets below the side decks. I think that I would have to remove the teak cabinet door frames to get out the overhead panels without cutting them.

JAy

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Yes, it involves quite a bit of work. You will need to remove the cabinets themselves, as they are built as a unit then installed into the boat. The pain is removing the grabrails (the grabrails and trim hide screws that hold up the ceiling panel), moldings and eventually the cabinets that keep the ceiling panel in place. Be very patient and you won't have too tough a time. I had to take a Sawzall to trim a little off one end of the cabinet so I could pull it out, otherwise it will wedge itself as you try to remove it. The other option would be to remove the chainplate assembly and pull the cabinet straight out. The chainplate inhibits the removal straight out.
Once you have the cabinets out, you can then remove the ceiling panel. Don't forget to re-bed the genoa sheet track, stanchion bases and anything else you can get to while its exposed. While I had mine out, I used 1/2" foil faced rigid insulation to line the ceiling and the hull. Eventually, my whole boat will be insulated this way. The foil face will act as a radar reflector as well as giving an R-3.5.
good luck, Tom

jammin · **Joined:** 30 Oct 2006 15:40 **Posts:** 63

I cut holes in the tops of the cabinets through the 1/8" masonite. After rebedding the stanchions I covered the cutouts with another masonite panel. The leaks had already done damage to the cabinet tops.

The panel over the pilot berth could not be removed without destroying it. I would consider cutting small openings like I did in the cabinet tops.

The brace for the side gate does not have a proper reinforced spot in the deck like the other stanchions. The teak backing plate had rotted away. I replaced all the backing boards with Starboard. Also the angled brace was attached with a wood screw into the deck. I changed this to a through bolt.

Otherwise the teak panels can be removed as previously described.

I would not try to remove any cabinets. You have to remove the teak plugs. Most of the cabinet screws are a soft brass and will strip before coming out. When you try to drill them the brass work hardens and dulls the bit. At least that was my experience and I can't recommend it.

Jerry
JAMMIN #226

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

This is a big project, but does allow you to get at the underside of the deck easily. I re-did the cabinets to allow for easy re-access by cutting original covering and attaching starboard under original covering with small screws.

Tartan37.com

Getting at deck gear.

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