Bilge Water Question

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Hello All, loving my Tartan after buying in October and recently getting boat back after a couple months at the boat yard for routine bottom work, updates, upgrades, etc. One of the things that was replaced is the automatic bilge pump. I have never had much water in the bilge and would flip the switch to manual on the old auto every couple of weeks for good measure when I saw some water. Boat yard said old pump wasn't coming on automatically very well so replaced. At any rate, the new one comes on more often when only a little water down there, which of course, make me look down there more often. I decided to totally dry the bilge to test. Couple of questions on what everyone thinks is normal. With a completely dry bilge, is it normal for 2-3 ounces of water to be in the bilge after 24 hours from condensation or something or even with that small amount, should I be investigating? Second question is, with a completely dry bilge how much water is normal to find in the bilge after motoring for a couple of hours? I found 2-3 inches, but don't think it made the auto bilge pump come on during the day. Going to check that more next time out. Stuffing box, prop shaft, etc is not something I had looked at since boat seemed extremely dry. Anyways, don't think I have any major problem. Any thoughts on what I should be checking or thinking about here, if anything? Thanks for any help, Zach

conch · **Joined:** 21 Jan 2010 12:57 **Posts:** 168

The only water taken on is rain that finds its' way down the mast. Check the small length of hose connecting the centerboard (assuming you have one) trunk to the S.S. tube that extends above the waterline inside the mast.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I am a fanatic about a completely dry bilge and have had periodic success. Folks have enumerated many of the traditional sources: stuffing box, etc. Here are some others I have discovered over the decades: had a pinhole leak in a sink through hull fitting, had some leaks in the pulpit and pushpit deck fittings, and in the through bolts for the skeg frame, where the water eventually founds its way in, had a leak in the forward hatch screw holes, etc. Mostly, my boat is generally dry now when there is not a downpour of rain where some very small amount comes down the hole in the truck of the mast, but it has been a constant effort to keep it that way over the decades. I think it is a very good idea to pursue dryness as it has helped me find other things that could have been disastrous (the rotten through hull fitting for instance caused me to change all of them out, but in the end, only that one was rotten).

FWIW.

Ray
Velera #373

Timshel · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2010 10:24 **Posts:** 193

And don't forget the icebox drain. Bruce.

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Thanks for all the info guys. Great info to know that it isn't condensation or something unstoppable. I would bet that my culprit while at the dock is the centerboard area and the culprit while under power is the stuffing box. Conch, is this small length of hose something I can get at and repair/replace while the boat is in the water? Am I looking for cracks in the hose, bad hose clamps, or what? What is the normal repair others have seen? Or is this part of the repair/replacement I have heard that involves unstepping the mast and raising it some? I recently had a ton of maintenance work done on the boat including drop the rudder, inspect the hardware, and replace pintle and rebed all the stanchions and bow and stern rail. Also replaced steering cable, steering chain, and in process, rebedded pedestal. So, hopefully none of the new repairs are the culprit. At any rate, decided to wait until next year to tackle the hose replacement for the pennant when I'm going to inspect the standing rigging and replace as needed while messing with lifting the mast. Will check stuffing box and likely add it to the list too.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Zach,
You'll want to replace that hose when the boat is hauled next go around. The centerboard pennant runs through this and you'll need to be able to snake a messenger line tied to the pennant while the hose is disconnected. I would also say that this is well below the water line too, so there's that issue to deal with is you were to try this while floating! You can certainly replace the hose clamps in the meantime. It's also a good time to replace the pennant while your at it.

Tom

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Thanks Tom. That's what I was thinking. Now...for my first attempt with the pencil zincs! Smile

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Was doing some engine work and was back behind the engine. I was able to check the prop shaft with the engine running. Was getting one drip of water roughly every 3 seconds while the engine was on whether the boat was in gear or not. Is that a normal amount, or does that signal need to repack the stuffing box? Could that drip rate half fill the small bilge area during 2-3 hours of motoring or do I likely have another culprit adding too that in the rudder/skeg area and/or hoses for center board? Thanks, Zach

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I suggest that you repack your stuffing box with the new black packing material---I forget the brand name of the stuff but it is more expensive than the old Teflon stuff we used in the past but worth it. You can do this in the water by wrapping a towel around the box while you dig the old packing out of the nut (get it all out), but it is is much easier done at haul out. I have been using it 6 years (the lobstermen up here in Maine have been using it longer than that as we get our supply from a gasket company here in Maine that supplies the Navy--but now the stuff is available at most chandleries) It does require a bit of fiddling to to get it adjusted just right. I turn it up hand tight after I install it, then wrench it 1/8th of a turn. Run the gear for a few miles and it will probably start dripping a bit. Turn it another 1/8th until it stops. If it drips again turn it until you are 1/8th turn beyond where it drips. Usually a couple adjustments and I am good to go for a few years. I check it regularly, but once adjusted, I have run more than 1000 miles with no adjustment. No it does not score your shaft if done properly. If your shaft is scored already (this used to happen with old flax packing that was overtightened), you can often fix the leak with the green clay stuff as one of the packing rings---I have fixed a couple of scored shafts on other boats with the stuff and it seems to work.

The boatyards hate this stuff because they make more money selling and servicing the PSS and Lasdrop seals and this packing requires a bit of adjustment after you leave the yard. But as a former deliver skipper, I had a couple instances of the mechanical shaft seals breaking (bellows leaking, spraying water all over everything) and there is no fix to them off shore. Personally, I think they are a hazard for offshore work. You can tighten a leaking stuffing box or even replace the packing if you need to.

Ray
Velera #373

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Not to change the subject but so much: My PSS shaft seal is getting on 12 years old so I thought that I would change out the bellows. What I found was that my prop shaft was frozen to the coupling. I tried everything: penetrating lubricant, heat, hydraulic puller with an impact force.....no go. Looks like I am going to have to cut the shaft...next pullout! I'm going sailing.............

ANother source for water in the bilge could be coming from the cockpit recesses that house the engine panel on the port side and recessed shelving on the starboard. Tartan never sealed aroung the lip on these things which will allow rain water to seap in. Might not be enough to worry about but it is a source.

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Bilge Water Question

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