Condition of through-deck on 1981

solen · **Joined:** 17 Sep 2009 00:00 **Posts:** 34

Failure to re-caulk through-deck is costly.

Solen's decks are pretty but were sorely neglected. This is what I saw when I removed the waste-water and vent fitting last fall in preparation for installing a new waste tank (Ronco).

As you can see the vent fitting has been leaking for a long time. The waste-water fitting only had true adhesion on less than 10% and was close behind.

Both water intake fitting were in HORRIBLE shape w mushy rotted balsa.

As a result I will become knowledgeable about resin infusion and complete core replacement (in places) over the next couple of years.

I would rather have had that time for sailing.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Solen,
Chances are, the rest of your fittings are in similar condition unless previously re-bedded. WHen we first bought Tortuga's Lie, I slowly re-bedded the deck fittings as I had time for. I think I got them all....but now I have a question: How long should I wait before I re-bed my re-bedding? Does the caulk last ten years? fifteen? What's been your experience?

I do know that when we bought her, she was 18 years old and the caulking was probably factory and it was marine silicone and still in decent shape when I pulled it up. Does polysulfide fair better/worse?

solen · **Joined:** 17 Sep 2009 00:00 **Posts:** 34

I learned from my previous boat a TSP Freedom 21 that "south-side" caulking is good for 8 years and north a good deal more. The plastic side ports on the cabin were mounted directly in uncored fiberglass and screwed in place with sheet metal/fiberglass screws, while I switched to through bolts the plastic frames still did not provide much tension as they would bend. Being a simple boat w/o paneling I could see any leak as I amused myself inside on rainy days (and follow some stains).

What I found is that caulking (5200 etc) exposed to heat cycles under limited pressure will start to leak <10 years - pressure helps a lot - but as you can see from the photos caulking does not bond with the fiberglass permanently if moisture get in.

I pulled the cam cleat bolts and pad eyes at 17 years when some leaked but the balsa only needed a few turns of a reamer to be squeaky clean and get its fresh tan back. These fittings were only exposed to shear force, I think they would have let go at the same time as the ports if the had been pulled away from the deck by the lines.

Based on that I would say that Solens Water fittings have been leaking for 20 years. The previous owner stored the boat inside in the winter so now I get to cut up "Bristol" decks to get to the wet core - go figure.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Knowing the area where your pump out fitting is located, I know that there is little room from below to address the coring issue, but maybe if you enlarge the cut-out and remove a liitle more of the ceiling liner, you can work from below without having to disturb the beuatiful two-tone deck. There may not be as much rot as you think, or perhaps you could dig out enough, dry out for awhile, then use a penetrating epoxy like "Git-Rot" to soak the rest of the balsa. Working upsside down like that can be a pain, but using parchment paper, keeps you laminates from sagging/dripping while they cure.

Here's a link to Git-Rot:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... atch_type=

I have no affiliation to this product.....

Celtic Lady · **Joined:** 05 Apr 2011 17:27 **Posts:** 66

I have seen people drill small holes (1/8") through the upper layer of deck fiberglass and inject West System Epoxy resin into the balsa thru these holes. I'm told that if you do not mix the powdered fiberglass with the Epoxy, the resin will seep around and saturate the balsa core and then harden, essentially making a solid deck in that area. I saw this done on an older Catalina 34 and could not see where the holes had been until it was pointed out to me. I have not tried this, but assuming the West System will wick into the balsa core, it seems like it should work as one alternative method.

Mark

solen · **Joined:** 17 Sep 2009 00:00 **Posts:** 34

I expect to have to take sections out or drill large access holes around the stays and backwards some to get the proper strength for offshore pounding.

I don't have a good handle on the damage under the jib-genoa tracks yet but infusion may be sufficient if I add a support track under the deck to distribute the load. As it is, I get some deck bending under big jib-sheet loads.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Solen,
Tartan used a section of plywood for the coring at the genoa tracks instead of balsa. They do this for added strength and it is seperated from the balsa core by a barrier of resin so hopefully, if you have a leak at the genoa track, it would not have migrated into the balsa.....ideally Shocked

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

That might be true but I am replacing a rotten core section on the port side from mainsheet winch to where the traveller block is mounted, the wet section is all the plywood part and is about 2' by 4'! The only reason I discovered it was taking apart the old traveller for the new MT-UB2 to be installed. The starboard side is good but I am rebedding the winch, cleat and U bolt (along with epoxying the hole).
I'm scared to look at the genoa track, maybe next year.

Richard

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

As a point of information, water migration in plywood is always faster than in end-grain balsa. This is because the grain, which can be considered a bunch of soda straws is perpendicular to the plane of the deck and water migrates faster through the "straws" than between them. Plywood on the other hand has some of the plys that are parallel to the plane of the deck allowing quicker water migration. This being said you will get quicker damage in plywood than the same leak with balsa. Balsa has the disadvantage in that it is soft and easily crushed. Plywood on the other hand is less crushable.

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Here are some pictures from where I had to repair, along with the new backing plates (Tartan only had some puny washers in place). I used 1/2" Coosa board glassed in place (the small rust spot was on my old roving).

Tartan37.com

Condition of through-deck on 1981

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