traveller question

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Just took my old traveller off in preparation for the new one. Everything came out ok, but the bolts (8 of them?) that hold the middle of the track must be tapped into a bar that is enclosed in fiberglass, similar the hull to deck joint? Does this seem correct? They came out ok.
I was going to put some backing plate into the backside of this but I think it would be unnecessary....

Thoughts,
Richard

T37Chef · **Posted:** 26 Dec 2011 18:02

Doubt you need to bolt the traveler in the center...my Garhauer traveler was designed to take the load at the ends. As you know, the OEM unit had only two bolts on each end with a pretty small backing plate...the Garhauer has six bolts on each end with a much bigger (X4) baking plate.

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

I'm not getting the Garhauer risers, making my own as I am extending everything out further. Still would like to support with the center. Must be tapped with a plate like the hull to deck joint in the center????

Richard

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Berwick,
You are correct, there is an aluminum flat bar fiberglassed underneath the seahood which recieves the bolts for the traveler. Most of mine unscrewed OK, but one was frozen due to corrosion. Will your new traveler have the same bolt pattern? When I ordered mine from Garhauer, they matched the bolt spacing for me....no extra charge. For the end-riser blocks, I reused the original teak blocks but I had to get extra long bolts. Couldn't find any long enough, so I wound up using 5/16 all thread with a nice acorn nut to finish the top and a huge backing plate underneath. If my traveler track ever pulls out, it will take half my cabin top with it Shocked

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Hi Tortuga's Lie, yes it will be made to tap into the same holes, I was thinking I needed a backing plate but I think I will just use what is there. Also the MT-UB2 can span a good distance without other support so the support that is there should be strong enough. Thanks for the thought on threaded rod, I may have to do the same. Since I am extending it further outboard I will have to get the end blocks re-fabricated.

Richard

brightmoments · **Joined:** 18 Jun 2011 10:08 **Posts:** 15

Hello To All,

I'm also planning to replace my traveler and have been wondering how dificult it is to remove the cabin roof liner, and should I anticipate replacing it all once I get started? How big a "CAN OF WORMS" is it?

Bright Moments #108
Jeff C.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Jeff,
I guess it mainly depends on what kind of condition your headliner is in. You will eventually need to access the through bolts when you re-bed deck fittings which need to be done periodically. The removal part isn't all that difficult, just take your time to figure out where it is screwed in place. The teak strips that run athwartships hide screws that hold the headliner and along the outer edges, there are more screws. Years ago, I replaced all of my headliners because the previous owner was a smoker and the liner was stained pretty bad. I replaced it with 4 X 8 pvc sheeting and this stuff is amazingly easy to keep clean and it was easy to cut with a utility knife. I think the name of the product was (is) Komocell.

Good Luck,
Tom

brightmoments · **Joined:** 18 Jun 2011 10:08 **Posts:** 15

Thanks Tom,
I'll let you know how it goes. I hope to tackle it before the spring.

Jeff
Bright Moments #108

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Here's the new traveller finally done. I wanted it with more travel than the old one, hopefully I won't lose my shin going by it........
The traveller went from 3:1 to 5:1 and due to the extra blocks the main went from 4:1 to 6:1 so that should help in a blow. The issue I may have now that I am done is the flow of water is stopped flowing down the deck a bit because of the blocks - I may need to drill a weep hole but once out on the water it may not be much of an issue due to the rocking motion, we will see. Teak is now close to $29.00 a BF so I used Jatoba at 1/4 the price (lots of boat builders here are using it) for the risers.

Richard

PS: Ignore the mess - work in progress....

Tartan37.com

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