Rudder repair

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

Steve, cutting out a portion of one side of the fairing would be my first thoughts as opposed to removing the whole thing. The bolts should be welded to the pintle bar so you can just remove the nuts from above. You will still need access to the hull to clean up the mating/sealing surface.

On my boat the the thtrust bearing and the bushing appeared to be two pieces but on the new pintle from Tartan they are machined a single piece. On both the old and new pintle assy the bushing was pinned to the pivot shaft. Check out the pics in the tech section. You can see the remains of the pin in the pics at the bottom of the page.

-Jim

T37Chef · **Posted:** 11 Dec 2010 10:19

Alright...I'm gonna do it, thanks for all the great info in this thread. Is there a place to find a sketch of the rudder assembly? I am sure there is water in the rudder, since shes pulled for the winter, what a perfect opportunity to tackle this lovely project Frustrating

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Chef,
Don't frett too much, it's really more intimidating thinking about it than it actually is after you jump. Just remember, cut into the rudder from the starboard side....the stainless straps are on port. I used a circular saw set about 1/2" deep to cut through the skin, worked great.
Just ask if you run into anything that you have questions about...there seems to be a few of us with this project under or belt.
Tom

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

I second the post above, this is really not a tough project, just approach it step by step.

I used a "Zip" disc, it has a thinner kerf than a circular saw. This is a very thin cut off saw for an ange grinder, get them at metalwork/welding supply shops.

As an update the weld on my new rudder pin failed and it dropped down. I held it up with a block of wood until my haul out and then had a new, slightly larger pin with a step made and Tig welded in place. I also fine tuned the vertical play with plastic washers above the rudder.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Since the pin is subject to severe corrosion due to an anaerobic condition, I wonder if using a better metal or maybe graphite rod that is through bolted be a better solution. I believe that the corrosion starts at the mating verticle surface of the pin and the stainless rudder shaft in which it is inserted. I guess titanium could be a solution, but I'm not sure of the shear strength of it. I used 316 stainless bolts in lieu of the 304 stainless that came with the pintle assembly. I also made sure that the weld was continuous 100% around each bolt head to help prevent water intrusion. My old bolts were pitted pretty bad as well. The more I think about it, the graphite rod isn't a bad solution. If you start off with a new flat bar, drill a hole to recieve a bolt which goes all the way through the graphite pin....mmmmmm. The bolt would have to be highly resistant to corrosion as well and with a good shear strength. Got to be a better mousetrap..... Question

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

On my boat the pin of the pintle is insulated from the rudder shaft by a nylon(?) bushing. There is no metal to metal contact. Do graphite and stainless play well together?

How about running a wire from one of the pintle mounting bolts to a stanchion or pulpit mounting bolt. Then hang one of the guppy anodes over the side and attach it to the stanchion or pulpit. Should protect the pintle assy.
-Jim

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Jim,
This is a situation where it's not a metal-to-metal contact thing creating electrolosis, but the fact that stainless corrodes in an anaerobic (no air) condition in salt water. If the pintle pin had circulating water surrounding it, it wouldn't be as much of an issue, but it is inserted into that delrin bushing thus restricting the oxygen. This same condition can be seen at the chainplates as they pass through the deck.
Tom

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

Oh I figured you were talking about galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals. My first pintle lasted 30 years. I figure if I'm still sailing in 30 years fear me. Chuckle

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Keep an eye on it! I replaced my pintle assembly in 2000 or 2001 with a new unit from Tartan. When I did my rudder rebuild last year, the pin was starting to pit pretty good already! They must have started using inferior metals from these were originally built in the late seventies.

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

Oh great! Well, what you want for $400. sad

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Rudder repair

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