spreader issues

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

When I got my boat 4 years ago the spreaders had galled around the shrouds not allowing them to move. I now realize this is a bad thing and I am trying to free them. I have tried all sorts of penetrating stuff and an air ratchet to free the screws at the end of the spreader to take the tip off but to no avail. I have only 2 other ways that I can think of - cut the tip off the spreader to free the wire then fabricate a plate or something to attach on the end but tap it in 90 degrees from the original, or maybe drill small holes carefully around the wire in order to free it but yet not nick it.
How much room is there supposed to be between the shroud the aluminum 1/8"? 1/4"?, mine is pretty solid.
Will there be damage to the S.S. shroud from this galling?
Any one else have this problem?

Thanks,
Richard

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 03 Jun 2009 06:40

Try some heat. A heat gun or torch followed by a couple hammer whacks might free things up.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I had the same problem and used heat (map gas) and it worked like magic. You might need and impact wrench as well to break the grip. I put penetrating oil on them and let it soak. Heated a couple times. You can use a lot of heat. I used this process to take every fitting off the mast, stripped it and had it painted, then put it all back together--had to tap some of the fittings to larger sizes, but it was not difficult. Time consuming, but not not a bad job if you have patience. I have no respect for the folks who put this stuff together the first time. There was no way these fittings were properly bedded. Perhaps thats just the way they do it in production boats, but how long would it take to put a little poly sulfide on the threads?

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

I did try a little bit of heat but I am afraid that it will effect the S.S. wire, will it not weaken and temper it?

Richard

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Alright, here's a thought....If the shroud is frozen to the spreader tip, and has probably been so for awhile, This may be an indication to replace the shrouds altogether. "They" say you're supposed to do so every ten years or so. The standing rigging on my boat was at least fifteen years old before I got around to doing it and it could've gone longer, but I feel more at ease when I'm healed over at 20 degrees and the wind is blowing 20 knots Very Happy

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I don't know about the wire and heat---I replaced my standing rigging at the same time so it was not an issue. I put in new screws with lots of bedding and they have been easy to remove since. I was concerned about weakening the aluminum around the fittings with heat and the rigging guys (experienced big boat folks) in the yard laughed. They used acetylene liberally in their work and it is hotter than map gas. They said that if it started to bubble, stop. I found that I never had to get that far. I would think the there would be quite a heat sink in what you are doing--you are just heating the heads of the screws to get them out. It seems impossible that there would be enough heat by transfer to the affect the wire.

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Ok, I've finally got them apart by cutting the bolts in half and being able to get the halves out. I'll retap the bolts to a 5/16" vice the 1/4" because the threads are shot. When I clean them up and dry put the tip on there is sure not alot of room for the shroud to pass through - no wondered it galled up. Should there not be room around the shrouds when put together, say an 1/8' or so for movement of the shrouds? How is others in the group for room? I could easily grind it to make it bigger.

Thanks,
Richard

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

I had a very similar problem with one spreader. The end had been cut off and the spreader wired to the shroud. (this was fine I think, but not pretty. The boot covered it)

I tapped both sides out for larger cap screws, countersunk the heads, and made a new cap for the missing side. I used lanolin to reassemble.
I suggest that the spreader should grip the wire, but not crush it. Look in Brian Toss's book for his discussion on the ideal spreader angle. It should bisect the angle between the wire above and below it, therefore be a fair way above horizontal. This makes sense to me as it is in compression. At the correct angle there would be no sliding force up or down the shroud.

I changed all my standing rigging at the same time.

Charlie

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Can you adjust your spreader angle?

Richard

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

A small amount. What I mean I guess is that I like to have it as high as I can. Take all the slack out in an upwards direction.

I just snugged them up, then tapped the spreader tip up with my hand before tightening.

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spreader issues

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