Stuffing Box - Repacking

Mike · **Joined:** 09 Jul 2008 12:51 **Posts:** 251

Since this is something I have never done but will in the near future...

What size teflon flux is used for the stuffing box ? If the box is completely cleaned out,, how many rings are normally inserted ?

Has anyone done the job in the water ? How much water am I to expect to flow in ?

Thanks,
Mike

jbarnes11 · **Joined:** 10 Feb 2008 18:03 **Posts:** 48

Mike - I haven't done this yet either, but I will this year. I saw some discussion of this topic under "Engine Maintenance" "Fun With Packing Glands"

The search tool will take you right there if you search "packing"

Hope this helps.

Haven't seen any discussion about doing it in the water. It seems to be a tedious sometimes time consuming job.

Tartan

Anastasis · **Posted:** 05 Mar 2009 00:59

While I can't comment about the stuffing materials, I can comment about the water.

How much will it let through? Enough to fill your cabin about 1 1/2' above the floorboards after 48 hours. With only a few rings out of place/worn down.

Personal experience from a few weekends ago. Thankfully, other than some flooring and two saws, I didn't lose anything significant. And got down in time to find it.

I'd recommend putting something, be it caulk or greased hemp/line, around the shaft on the outside to mitigate any inflow while you change out packing. Mine occurred due to a tear in the hose coming from the stuffing tube up to the shaft coupling to the transmission. I didn't think it would leak like that, but I got a good two-three cups per minute of inflow.

T37Chef · **Posted:** 05 Mar 2009 08:28

Here is a great site from a fellow Sailnet member I recommend to take a look at, excellent step by step photo log of how to on the stuffing box, see here; http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

jbarnes11 · **Joined:** 10 Feb 2008 18:03 **Posts:** 48

So did you change the hose? How'd that go? I imagine the you split the coupling, remove the shaft side and have to pull the hose off that way... Anybody have any further info?

BTW T37Chef, that site was EXCELLENT!!!!!

jbarnes11 · **Joined:** 10 Feb 2008 18:03 **Posts:** 48

HELP!!!!

Here is a picture of my coupling - split and pulled back from the transmission.

Attachment:

DSC01306.jpg [ 2.75 MB | Viewed 0 times ]

Has anybody taken this coupling off the shaft? How does one do this? What are the four hex head bolts(?) seen around the circumference? Do they need loosened before I try pulling this coupling half off? I am worried about missing some detail and screwing the shaft and coupling up.

I have already taken the 2 square head "set screws" out. My next plan is to make a plate with the same hole pattern as the coupling and use it to "jack" againts to pull the coupling off. Any comments?

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

OK you have a bit of a problem. I am not sure if you pulled that part off the back of your transmission or if it fell off, but you need to reattach it. Be sure to use the bolts that came off it as they are a very specific thread and strength (fine thread and built to shear at a certain point). I believe it is some kind of clutch, but you are not on the way to replacing the stuffing box rings. The standard stuffing box takes 3 rings. Another post gave you a reference to a nicely done instructional on this.

jbarnes11 · **Joined:** 10 Feb 2008 18:03 **Posts:** 48

I did that on purpose. The hose needs changed. To change the hose, the coulping half needs to come off. The other post was great but I need to do more than the packing.

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Jeff, I went through this last year and you are on the right track. What you have is a "federal flexible coupler" http://www.henrysmith.com/couplingsfederal.htm It was an option when the boat was new. Look on the old manual pages for the W40 under the Westerbeke site and you will see it. The 4 big bolts on the outside are the trunions which is basically a big piece of rubber which is the flexible part of this coupler. All parts of the coupler can be replaced. The only bolts that need to be loosened to take the coupler off is the 2 bolts with the square drive that is closest to the stuffing and are facing toward the shaft. I put lots of penetrating oil in this area and mine came right off. The trunions join the 2 parts of the coupler to each other through the rubber parts. I replaced the shaft, cutlass, stuffing box, hose and put a newer type of coupling in. I decided to change out this coupler as there are lighter (almost half the weight of the federal) and I think better flexible couplers out there. I like the Vetus Bullflex but it will not fit in the space (maybe with a non drip stuffing box but it would have been close) I ended going with a Centaflex cf-m-127 coupler http://www.centa.info/?show=products&c=&nr=40 and it seems to work well. I like the idea of a flexible coupler and the ones from R&D are really only for safety if you hit something hard. If you decide to stay with this coupler the trunions are supposed to be changed every so many years as they harden up. When I put mine on the workbench and pried it with the shaft - it did not want to flex so I think mine was due for new trunions. Good luck.

Richard
Salvation
#136

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 21 Mar 2009 06:33

^^^ Glad you chimed in. That picture had me wondering. Shocked

I don't have that coupler, just the stock collar with the key and set screws. I assume that's an aftermarket upgrade and probably a good one. (we've had to replace the shaft)

Tartan37.com

Stuffing Box - Repacking

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