Centerboard stuck

Box of Rain · **Joined:** 25 Feb 2008 19:09 **Posts:** 15

jvoelxen wrote:

Just a thought.... To remove the board, you have to pull it down and [url]back[/url] from the bottom (aft) end, because there is a relatively large portion of the top end of the board that fits forward of the hinge pin into a 'pocket.' With the hinge pin not attached, and something stuck up inside, and depending on where/how you're pulling, you may be trying to pull the board out with that upper portion being constrained by the lower portion of its pocket.

Good luck!!

Jim
Odyssey #191

I cannot picture this. If I site up the side of the board into the trunk, the board swells where the pendant padeye should be attached. But that section is not constrained by the trunk. It looks like you meant to add a URL link. Are they pictures/diagrams of what you are describing?

I don't want to give in and glass it over yet. I was considering a temporary seal for this season, some kind of foam maybe.

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

I'm not sure I would use spray foam or not...it would be easy enough to apply but very messy, it could cut away with a sawzall pretty quickly, but the marine growth on it would be severe I would think. re-attach the hinge plate and bolts and use wood wedges to make sure the board is stable. The wedges can be cut away easily with a sawzall as well. Just my two cents Wink

Of course if the board dropped, that might be a good thing!!!

Adam135 · **Joined:** 05 Feb 2009 22:21 **Posts:** 22

Wondering if anyone can offer some advice. My boat is new to me and I've only been on board once since buying it unfortunately. Tried to lower the centerboard by releasing the line on deck. Did not appear to go down as the line just slacked with no pressure on it. Is there something else that needs to be done on these boats to make it go down. Or do I just have a stuck centerboard as well?

Thanks,
Adam

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

She's stuck. Have you tried while sitting still? If you are in salt water, you could have enough barnacles growing in there to jam it up pretty good. Next time you're snorkeling around, take an old hand saw that you don't care much about it and slide it between the board and trunk and work your way back and forth to knock the barnacles off. The saw has a pretty good depth to it and should reach all the way up into the trunk.
Good luck Very Happy

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

Box of Rain-

Sorry it took me so long to reply to your question about my response. I don't have any pictures or diagrams showing the centerboard and its 'pocket,' but forward of the hinge pin the upper (forward) portion of the board rotates up into that 'pocket.' Because of this, to remove the board (when not fully lowered like when trying to remove it while the boat is on jack stands), the aft end needs to be pulled down about a foot or so, and then pulled aft to pull the upper (forward) end of the board clear of the 'pocket.'

I've removed my board a number of times. One time, I had swelling at the pennant padeye, which did bind a little, but not to the extent that would resist the forces you've applied. The only thing that I can think of that could provide the resistance you're encountering is interference within the pocket. For example, if the pennant hose used has too large an outside diameter, it could be getting pryed in between the upper portion of the board and the pocket preventing the board from rotating as its pulled down. Also, if I recall correctly, you have the hinge pin unbolted from the keel. Without the hinge pin connected, pulling down on the board may cause the board to try to rotate, but at a different point from when the pin is connected, which may be aggravating the situation.

Anyway, just some thoughts.

Jim
Odyssey #191

Box of Rain · **Joined:** 25 Feb 2008 19:09 **Posts:** 15

Well, not too long now until haul out. This season has been a little frustrating between the weather and other commitments. With the board up she still sailed ok, as expected. I'm contemplating putting a through hull in the bilge above the center of the board. It would be kind of an inspection port and a place where I can place a pry bar on top the board to pound it out. Has anyone ever heard of that? Is there anything to be wary of drilling through that part of the hull?

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

BoxofRain....
That's definitely thinking "outside the box" but it's a bit on the drastic side with no clear indication of it doing what you think it might. I don't know if there is lead ballast above the slot or if the balast is just on the sides??? You might be able to ask Tim Jackett, he was with Tartan during the T-37 years. I believe that your board did what mine did, which is the steel plate inside the board has started to rust, expanded outward and has wedged itself against the walls of the slot. I was able to free it up and remove it eventually, so yours may be beyond what I experienced. Once I re-built mine, I have been able to use the board with no issues. I think the trick to these things is to use them from time to time where you can monitor issues before they get too far gone.
Good luck,
Tom

Box of Rain · **Joined:** 25 Feb 2008 19:09 **Posts:** 15

I'm afraid you're correct with the corroded plate and swollen board. This is only our second season with her and the board has been a problem from day one. I'm hoping to get it out somehow without damaging it too much so that it can be rebuilt. I'm not ready to purchase a new board. I'll probably just do without if it comes to that, at least for a few seasons. I thought the through hull was a bit drastic too, until I realized that the through hulls for the knot log and depth transducer are in the forward part of the bilge. But that darn keel. Maybe I can pass a loop saw over the top of the board and saw it out in pieces. To be honest, at this point I don't want to lose the battle with this thing. I'm very curious (too curious?) to see just what's been holding it up there.

Adam135 · **Joined:** 05 Feb 2009 22:21 **Posts:** 22

My centerboard has been stuck all season since I bought the boat in Feb. Getting hauled next week with a short amount of time in the slings to address the problem. I would like to get it unstuck and drop it all together to inspect and repair any bad hardware. First what is the exact process to drop the board? Just unbolt the hinge plate assembly? Is this normally glassed over requiring grinding or exposed? From looking at the picture of the hinge assembly it looks like the pin is attached to this, does that come out to go through the board? Also lastly if someone could just give a quick list of tools needed to drop it as my time in the slings is only half an hour unfortunately.
Thanks!

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

It's not difficult to remove the board. It is held in place by the hinge pin assembly, which is not glassed over. The hinge pin assembly is attached to the keel with 6 bolts. Remove those bolts, and the centerboard should drop right out. The pennant is attached to the centerboard via a padeye that is located on the opposite side from the hinge pin. The board isn't that heavy (apporox. 120 -150lb) but it is awkward, so you'll need to people to carry it.

The hinge pin assembly can stay on the board as you are removing it, so don't worry about while the boat is on the lift. When you get to the point where you do want to remove it from the board, that's very easy also. The hinge pin assembly is fabricated from 2 sections of SS angle iron, and a SS pin. The pin is welded to one of the angle sections; the pin is threaded on the other end, which mates with female threads on the other angle section - just unscrew it!!

Good luck.

Jim
Odyssey, #191

Tartan37.com

Centerboard stuck

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