Rudder is leaky & saturated - anyone have experience?

phillard · **Joined:** 10 Jul 2007 14:32 **Posts:** 10

Mine is a 1980 S&S T37-C. I just discovered that my rudder has been leaking for years and the foam core is saturated inside. It feels very solid when you push your shoulder against it, and there is no play in the helm. I have received differing opinions from marine service techs. Two have told me to seal it up, put it back in the water, and don't worry about it because it stays suspended in water anyway. Two others have told me I need to either open it up and re-build it, or replace it for safety concerns. Has anyone had any experience with this? Any advice? Question

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

I haven't looked at mine yet but the survey said it was wet. Since I plan to go to across the Pacific next year I have decided to take it off, split it, check the welds on the tabs and put it back together. I am sure this is overkill but I really want to be sure that it is solid.
It is also a totally manageable job I feel and I need to replace the lower bushing anyway.
I plan to do this in August when my family go away for two weeks and will probably post some photos if I have time.

If budget is available a new rudder is available from Tartan for about $2000 I think?

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

Mine's been saturated for as long as I've had her, going on thirteen years now. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom and left it open for drainage during haulouts and to ensure that the rudder won't freeze and expand. Now this may not be a long-term solution, and if I were going off-shore for an extended period, I would do a more permanent fix. A new rudder from Tartan ain't cheap and rebuilding one is a labor intensive pain, so pick your poison!!!
I have also been told that if the rudder were impacted severely, it is designed to shear off just below the pintle which leaves a little less than half the rudder for steerage. This is to avoid catastrophic damage to the rudder post etc....

phillard · **Joined:** 10 Jul 2007 14:32 **Posts:** 10

Thanks for the info! Sounds like this is a common condition for these boats. I think I will drill holes to facilitate drying, then seal it up and put it back in the water. This does make me move up designing an emergency steering option on my priority list. Should have one anyway.

carl s · **Joined:** 31 Dec 2006 13:33 **Posts:** 90

My rudder was rebuilt before the p.o. went across the atlantic oh, maybe five years ago. It was my understanding that it was split and welds checked and refoamed and reglassed. I bought the boat about a year ago and when I hauled it for the Minnesota winter I thought it would be wise to drill a couple of 1/4 in holes in the bottom. A fair amount of water came out. I would guess about several cups. I think this is a common issue with all boats. Not one to stay awake at night about but certainly keep it in mind for freezes or crossing an ocean. Carl

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

carl s wrote:

when I hauled it for the Minnesota winter I thought it would be wise to drill a couple of 1/4 in holes in the bottom. A fair amount of water came out. I would guess about several cups. Carl

This is the reason I leave the hole I drilled open, It's gonna fill up anyway. So why fill and fair out, paint a repair everytime? As I said earlier, I've had the boat for thirteen years now and the rudder is still sound (no delamination or open seams or bulging sides) I know that the stainless is being attacked slowly, but this is one repair that is still lurking in the shadows Evil or Very Mad

This is indeed a flaw with our rudders, and the water is most likely coming in at the pintle attachment mid-way up the rudder. There must be movement here, enough to open up any sealant and allow the water in. For coastal cruising, I wouldn't be too concerned, but if I were planning on extended cruising, I would do a rebuild or go new. During a re-build, it might be a good idea to coat any exposed metal with epoxy to protect it from further corrosion. Of course, you'll need to clean the metal bare to remove rust/corrosion/dirt etc....

DAEDALUSCAN · **Joined:** 09 Dec 2007 21:03 **Posts:** 114

I was in the dinghy installing my windvane yesterday and picked at a bit of loose paint on the top surface of the rudder with my fingernail. Lo and behold a hole about the size of a loonie (Canadian Dollar coin) appeared and I can see dry looking foam about two inches below the top face. I'll glass it up for now but it just reinforces that I really want to have this off and get a good look at what is going on.

ramminjammin · **Joined:** 21 May 2008 07:10 **Posts:** 4

I just bought a 1975 Tartan 30 last fall . When I hauled her the rudder constantly dripped any time it thawed. I dont think being saturated will hurt it except for the freezing and thawing.
I think next year i will drill two holes, one in the top and one in the bottom, then fill up the rudder with antifreeze, drain it in the spring , then reseal both holes.
I understand the antifreeze also stops any rot action ?

captainron · **Joined:** 30 May 2008 13:44 **Posts:** 8

I am sailing a 1979 T-37 for 4th season. Last fall when we hauled out we noticed a short horizontal crack in the outer shell of the rudder at the lintel. Water continued to seap out of it. I had a guy look at this spring and he put a moisture meter on it and it was real wet still. He suggested drilling some holes and putting a heat lamp on to dry it, then reglass the crack area. From other experiences reported here, sure sounds like a common problem. Anyone ever check w/ Tartan about what they recommend. Drilling a drain hole and even putting a bit of anti-freeze in sounds like an easy idea to avoid freeze damage.
I've got some digital shots of the area if anyone is interested.

captainron · **Joined:** 30 May 2008 13:44 **Posts:** 8

Here is the picture of the crack at the pintel on my soggy rudder. Other than that the rudder seems solid and seaworthy.

Tartan37.com

Rudder is leaky & saturated - anyone have experience?

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