Stuck Centerboard and Leaky Main Hatch

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

My centerboard is stuck in the up position. I can wiggle it side to side but despite some good pulling, it doesn't rotate down. The previous owner was not good about cleaning out the barnacles and I suspect that is what is holding it in place. I have thought about creating a metal elongated U that I could slip over the back end of the board while in its case and then exert downward force with some screw device, much like a C clamp in reverse.

Any thoughts by anyone on solving the recalcitrant board issue?

Also, I need new seals on the forward hatch and the one over the main cabin.....Is there a "ready-made" source or is this a cut to shape fun event?

Thanks in advance

Falco

T37 - 198 "Vanora" Tartan

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

I had this issue several years ago and the only way I was able to free it up was to un-bolt the hinge assembly, which you would want to check anyway for corrosion.
When you unbolt the centerboard, you'll need to support the weight with chocks, boatstand or wedges that you can pull out when you're ready for it. The board weighs about 80-100 pounds.
I'm not 100% sure as to why the board got stuck, but I suspect that the board swelled up at the pendant pad-eye due to rusting/corrosion of the internal steel platethus wedging it against the side walls of the keel. See my pics of the board on another post under general maintenence/centerboard pad-eye.

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

Thanks for the quick response....

When we did the survey, the pennant attachment had broken and so, we removed the centerboard to repair it. In the process it was discovered that the bolts at the pivot were quite corroded and they, too, were replaced. So, that is all in order but the issues still exists of it being stuck.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the cavity for the centerboard? This will help me devise the device I will use to extract the centerboard. Also, has anyone thought of creating a centerboard made with core and glass and some appropriate amount of lead? This would eliminate the corrosion problem inherent to plate steel.

Falco

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

What dimensions are yo looking for. I currently have my C/B removed can get whatever dimensions you need of either the trunk or the C/B.

Regarding the forward and main hatch seal. if you still have your Adkins and Hoyle hatches, you can purchase the seal material from them, which I did. I think they charged me about $120 for the seal material, which is 'a little steep' for what you get - round foam-like seal material which should cost about $5. But anyway, if fit, it seals well, and I hope I won't have to replace it for another 25 years!

Jim
Odessey #191

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

Thanks for the offer of the measurements. Actually, a bit of both would help. So, what is the width of the opening and what is the thickness (width) of the board itself. Also, what is the vertical depth of the cavity and what is the fore and aft dimension of the centerboard itself (when deployed, or vertical height when encased). This will give me the max and mins of the tool I need to make to "capture" the board and draw it down. Subsequently I may also use the tool to clean out the cavity.

With regard to the seal, I am curious as to what they were sending for that price. I just got a commercial catalog in the mail (as we manufacture, among other things, a sailboat). The catalog included all sorts of gasket material. Perhaps this could be a more reasonably priced source for us all.

Falco in Dunedin, FL

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

It'll take me a few days to get the C/B dimensions, but attached is a picture showing the A&H hatch seal material.

Both are black, have a round cross-section, and appear to be made of a closed cell foam with a thin smooth outer 'skin.' The diameter of the seal for the forward hatch is 11/16"; the main hatch seal diameter is 1/2". These are cut to length and glued into the seal grooves in the hatch.

Jim
Odyssey #191

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

Jim:

That is outstanding....thanks so much for being so thorough. I will be able to find the seal in the catalog. If there is anyone else who may need this, let me know and I will get enough for all who have a need (as it will be cheaper in quantity).

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

Falco-

I was able to get to my boat this weekend to get the measurements you asked for:

Centerboard Trunk: Opening Width: 2 7/8" at the C/B hinge pin bracket location, which tapers down to ~2 1/4" at the aft end of the opening. Vertical Depth: 24 1/2" at the C/B hige pin bracket, which again tapers down to about 21" at the aft end.

Centerboard Itself: 64" overall length; thickness at hinge pin opening is 2", below the hinge pin opening the board tapers down to a foil section. I didn't measure it but my guess is that it is about 1 1/2" to 1/3/4" thick.

If you need more information, let me know.

Jim

Falco · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2007 23:08 **Posts:** 42

Jim......You are a gentleman and a marine scholar....I very much appreciate your measurements. I am now going to manufacture a "retrieval tool" to go over the end of the board (when it is encased) so that I may pull it down. Subsequently I expect to also use this to clean out the board chamber.

I will let you know how it goes.

Falco
VANORA #198
Dunedin, FL

Solare · **Posted:** 14 Jan 2008 14:35

Falco,

If you haven't ordered it yet, I'm in need of the hatch gasket material.

Tartan37.com

Stuck Centerboard and Leaky Main Hatch

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