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 Post subject: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2007 15:09 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
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This is posted as a caution to all owners with a C/B and I'm also looking for advice to fix the problem. The attached picture is my C/B. I removed it this fall to inspect the padeye that lifts the board. When I first looked at it, it didn't seem very bad, but I did notice some minor delamination, cracking and rust stains. I started chasing the cracks with a grinder, and soon I found some real surprises. First, originally there was a backing plate embedded in the centerboard for the padeye bolt. That was virtually gone. It was about 3 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/4", but was made out of aluminum. The biggest piece I found was only about 1/2" long and was attached to the aft bolt on the padeye. The rest had completely corroded away, and only the pocket in which it originally sat was left. So water got in, caused the aluminum to turn to aluminum oxide, which displaces more volume causing the fiberglass to crack further, letting more water in causing more corrosion and damage from freezing. Second, what also really surprised me was that the whole affected area was solid fibergalss resin, with no glass reinforcement. As best I can tell, the outer skin of the C/B (at this location anyway) was gelcoat followed by a layer of fiberglass roving. The rest is solid resin.

The pictures I attached are not great but what they show is the ground out area. There is a large gap which once contained the backing plate (dark area), and the rusted piece is steel plate (~1" thick) that's embedded in the top portion of the C/B. The brown stuff is solid resin. This solid resin is strong but brittle, so its no surprise that it cracked. The bottom line is that the only thing holding my padeye was cracked solid resin, and the bolt treads in that cracked resin. Knowing what I know now, I would inspect this padeye connection frequently. If there is any cracking or delamination, or more importantly rust (which comes frm the embedded steel plate), I would assume the worst and grind out/ repair accordingly.

As repair, I plan on grinding out all the cracked resin, and rebuilding the area with epoxy resin with roving and mat. I'll embed a new backing plate fabricated from Stainless Steel. If anyone has experience, or repair suggestions please let me know. I'm kinda winging it here!!

On a similar note, I replaced my C/B hinge bracket last year. There are 6 bolts that attach the bracket to the keel, which I understand thread into embedded plates. When I tried to reinstall a few of the bolts last year I found some of the threads in the embedded plates were stripped. I retaped to a larger size in some cases; in other cases, where this didn't work I replaced the bolts with SS lag screws. At the time I thought it strange that the bolts threaded out OK, but the threads were shot when I reinstalled. I'm thinking now that those embedded plates may also have be made from aluminum. If that's the case, there not much holding that bracket and my C/B to the keel, so not to take any chances I'm replacing all bolts with lag screws this Spring.

Good luck. I hope this was helpful, and any repair suggestions/comments would be greatly appreciated.

Jim Voelxen
Odessey #191


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_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


Last edited by jvoelxen on 26 Dec 2007 11:57, edited 6 times in total
 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 26 Dec 2007 08:44 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
I've done a similar re-build of the centerboard. When I stripped down the board and removed the padeye (which I had to cut the bolts off to remove), I drilled many holes thru the board to help dry it out. I also kept heat under it to speed up the drying process. Once I got it dry enough, I filled the holes with epoxy and I epoxied the entire surface to act as a barrier coat before painting. Instead of a padeye, I thru bolted two tang straps which I then secured a shackle that the pendant is secured. See photos. My hinge assembly also had severely corroded bolts and I'm surprised that it didn't fall off when sailing hard Shocked I since drilled and tapped a threade hole for a small zinc to help with the corrosion factor. These zincs usually last two seasons in the Chesapeake, probably much less in the tropics.
Attachment:
File comment: hinge assembly with corroded bolts

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File comment: heating the board

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File comment: Board ready for painting

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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 26 Dec 2007 08:51 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Here's a few more shots of the project
Attachment:
File comment: old padeye showing exposed steel plate inside the board

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Attachments:
File comment: finished board ready for install
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 26 Dec 2007 12:08 
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Skipper

Joined: 21 Oct 2006 15:36
Posts: 268
Thanks for the pictures and suggestions. I like the idea of using tangs and a shackle for the C/B pennant. Some quick questions: 1) you seemed to have drilled a number of holes to help dry out the board. The only holes I see are in the upper portion. On my board that area if filled mostly with a thick steel plate. Is your board the same? 2) did you also drill the lower portion of the board? If so was it solid, or filled? and 3) Did you reinforce the area around the bolts securing the tangs.

Thanks.

Jim

_________________
Jim Voelxen
Odyssey #191
Home Port: Osterville, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 26 Dec 2007 16:58 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
Yeah, I drilled a series of holes on approximately a 4" center along the length of the board to help the drying process. I started this in the winter applying heat and then allowed the board to dry for several months and then re-applying heat to finish off the drying.
If you notice, I put a heavy steel plate on top of my heater to help dissipate the heat over the entire centerboard. Tartan used lead shot pellets encased in a epoxy slurry at the bottom tip of the centerboard to help the board drop when in the water. The straps that I installed are through solid fiberglass and no foam core, so I figure that this arrangement should be pretty stout since it sreads out the force over a large area. I would think the board would rip in half before the strap would fail!!!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 23 Oct 2020 01:10 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 185
I'm working on repairing my centerboard since it was stuck in the up position due to a crack caused by corrosion by the padeye. I think there was a piece of Aluminum between the padeye and the large metal plate.

My screws were tapped into the metal plate, but they were at an angle (not perpendicular) so they didn't sit flush in the padeye.

I'm trying to figure out how to repair this section and was going to get som elonger bolts to tap into the large metal plate. Should I install another backing plate between the plate and the padeye? Also if I tap into the stainless, should I install the screws before doign all the glassing or glass everything and then drill and tap the holes?


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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 23 Oct 2020 01:12 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 185
I also forgot to ask, how much play does everyone have on the hinge assembly? My board when it is down can make some noise in the box since there is some play in the hinge based on the width of the board. I'm wondering whether this should be a tighter fit?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 23 Oct 2020 08:22 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I'd like to know if anyone has these issues on a freshwater (generally Great Lakes) boat. My board was out, about 140# and I could find no issues in the board. However, the hinge assembly looks like it might have been dinged at some point - very minor ding - but the board comes up and binds to port. I don't believe it will drop when commanded. I think a new hinge assembly, re-bolt somehow and careful alignment is in the offing if I want to save a day or two on a long trip to wind. The hinge pin threads are not "tight." Very sloppy, and I feel it is "hanging by a thread." Of course, some monkey put everything back together, added Dyneema pennant, then spooged up over the hinge pin assembly with West System 407. I always manage to get one step ahead of myself.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 13 Nov 2020 00:24 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 185
felizcortez wrote:
I'm working on repairing my centerboard since it was stuck in the up position due to a crack caused by corrosion by the padeye. I think there was a piece of Aluminum between the padeye and the large metal plate.

My screws were tapped into the metal plate, but they were at an angle (not perpendicular) so they didn't sit flush in the padeye.

I'm trying to figure out how to repair this section and was going to get som elonger bolts to tap into the large metal plate. Should I install another backing plate between the plate and the padeye? Also if I tap into the stainless, should I install the screws before doign all the glassing or glass everything and then drill and tap the holes?


So I'm going to put some petroleum jelly on the screws and then put them in place when putting filler/glass on the board. My plan is to fill the area where there is just resin with some thickened epoxy and then cover that with glass at the top. Any thoughts on a different way to fix this?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Centerboard Padeye Maintenance
PostPosted: 03 Dec 2020 14:08 
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Tactictian

Joined: 06 Aug 2020 09:02
Posts: 142
Board out today. First time to the best of my knowledge. Bolts suggest this might be the case. Can't wait to see what the padeye hardware look like.


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File comment: Port side CB bracket bolts.
20201203_110659.jpg
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