bimini question

carl s · **Joined:** 31 Dec 2006 13:33 **Posts:** 90

hello, making a bimini this winter and was wondering if I should extend it past the backstay with a hemmed slit and aft brace behind the stay. If anyone has a bimini on their boat I would appreciate comments or suggestions. thanks carl sutherland, ser295 Mawky also, i am replacing the front a&h hatch acrylic and have damaged the knobs, does anyone have experience with this project too? a&h wants 150 bucks per knob, a good stainless set collar would work as well. two collars and new acrylic would be under 100 bucks, is the acrylic bedded in 5200 or proseal? mine was also screwed down every two inches which was the soucrce of multiple leaks.

T37sailor · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 16:10 **Posts:** 61

Carl,

I am in the process of making a bimini too. I got a kit from Sailrite and have two of the bows attached and am working out the heights. I will take some photos the next time I am on the boat. I did extend the back bow behind the stay and plan to add a zipper or Velcro to close the seam. I wanted the bimini to carry aft far enough to shade the driver. I also thought that I might add full enclosure curtains at a later date...after I do the dodger at least!

I'll send photos when I get back to the boat in a week or two.

Regards,
Craig Connolly
Recollections
T37 #231

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

My bimini extends beyond the backstay about 14 inches, just enough to be verticle to the aft coaming at the helmsman seat. This makes it a little drier at the aft seat. We have a full enclosure as well to keep things really dry and warm on cool days. "The Ship's Tailor" on the bay did a fantastic job with the set up, I doubt I would've come close doing it myself. The cost for dodger (less frame), bimini &frame, full enclosure and new mainsail cover was about $4600 out of Sunbrella. I couldn't be happier!!! Very Happy

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jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

Carl-

I replaced the lens in my A&H hatches last winter. The vendor that provided my lens makes hatches and suggested that I use GE Ultra Glaze (SSG4000) to seal the lenses in the frame. It worked great, looks great, and I had no leaks. I bought both lenses for this vendor for about $100. He was quite helpful, gave me great tips on sealing the lenses to the frame, and couldn't have been more responsive.

I was able to salvage my knobs. If I recall, I had to drill out the bolts that attached the knobs to the SS latches. I was able to reinstall new bolts after putting in some threaded inserts and nylon bushings.

If you would like to discuss in detail ( installing lenses in frames on reworking knobs) feel free to contact me back channel.

Jim Voelxen
Odyssesy #191

carl s · **Joined:** 31 Dec 2006 13:33 **Posts:** 90

Craig, keep me posted how your bimini project goes. This will be the third one I have sewed and they are real easy. This time i am going to order the frame from sailrite. how does theirs work, two piece with an inner sleeve? is it sturdy? i plan to zip the backstay shut and add a zip on extension in front to go on to the dodger. i have an existing dodger from island nautical and just needed to reorder a new canvas from them. i never made a dodger so i dont want to take on too many projects this winter. also am sewing on new uv protectector on the furling genoa. for Tortuga, i am sorry but i didnt get your name. also, the attatched pics were not allowed to be opened or downloaded, probably my computer. would love to see what you have though, sounds real nice and i think i could get some ideas there.

carl s · **Joined:** 31 Dec 2006 13:33 **Posts:** 90

Jim, so the ge ssg4000 is the only compound holding the acrylic to the frame? sounds like strong stuff. just to be sure again, yours isnt also screwed to the frame is it? my a&H knobs can be salvaged, i will have to tap larger threads in them and just replace the bushings, the dog shafts on mine have enlarged screw holes and i think someone has attempted a repair earlier. thanks for your help, this is just what i needed to know. Carl Sutherland, Mawky, ser 295

T37sailor · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 16:10 **Posts:** 61

Carl,

Sailrite sends six legs (all the same length) with the 90 degree bends. They have sleeves and connect to the arched top bar. I had to get a special wheel for my pipe cutter to cut through the stainless steel.

So far so good...I attempted a description of what I have installed thus far...but I think I need a picture to replace my 1000 words! I will be down to the boat next weekend and I should have time for some pics...

I am impressed with Sailrite so far...their instructions are very good.

Regards,
Craig Connolly
Recollections
T37 #231

jvoelxen · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 15:36 **Posts:** 268

Carl-

The GE silicone is all that holds the lenses to their frame. In the original design, there were no fasteners. It appeared like A&H used a clear silicone like sealant to seal the bottom of the lens to the lip on the frame. Then they used black silicone to fill the side gap between the lens and the vertical lip on the frame. I sealed the lens in 1 step with the GE silicone (its black). It looks great and works well. BTW, the hatch frame is attached to the deck with screws.

Jim
Odyssey #191

Tartan37403 · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 12:51 **Posts:** 48

My bimini extends behind the backstay about 14" as well. The part I like best about the reengineering we did some years back was to attach the bimini bows to the forward, vertical part of the stern pulpit-not on the coaming. This really makes that portion of the coaming a nice place to sit.

I had both a Sunbrella and a vinyl glass "connecter" to go between the bimini and the dodger. The Sunbrella piece gets much more use(when anchored).

T37sailor · **Joined:** 24 Oct 2006 16:10 **Posts:** 61

So, I promised a pic of the bimini frame. Here it is...

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I used the hinged jaw slide for the rails. The aft supports need them as you cannot slide on a non-hinged jaw slide. I thought about drilling out the rivet on the side supports and using the regular jaw slide, but the hinged one was just a few more dollars and much easier to install.

I still need to add the middle bow and I plan on adding side grab rails. This will allow a bimini frame secured to the push pit by only stainless connections. The only webbing will be two straps to hold the middle bow at the correct height.

That's the plan anyway...I will send more pics as this project progresses...

Craig Connolly
Recollections
1980 T37 #231

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