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 Post subject: Rudder rebuild
PostPosted: 01 Jun 2022 14:10 
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Skipper

Joined: 25 Apr 2016 10:25
Posts: 185
Our rudder is wet and I'm planning to drop it and potentially fabricate a new one during our next haulout.

My plan is to drop the rudder then make a mold of it with some polyester resin and chop strand. After I have the mold, I'm going to cut into the existing rudder and see how bad things are inside and decide whether to build another rudder from the mold and a new rudder stock or repair the existing rudder.

If I rebuild, I am going back and forth on epoxy vs vinyl ester for the resin, but am leaning epoxy. I plan to use 1708 for the majority of the layup then lighter cloth for the sharper corners/edges.

Any thoughts on what type/weight of foam to use for the inside of the rudder?

I'm planning to also have a new pintle fabricated and replace that while I am doing the job.

Any other thoughts or info would be appreciated.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Rudder rebuild
PostPosted: 03 Jun 2022 04:27 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Attachment:
Rudder cut & cleaned out..jpg

Rudder cut & cleaned out..jpg [ 625.5 KB | Viewed 0 times ]



There's links and photos around here, but I don't think you have to go to the extent of laying up an all new rudder before inspecting what you've got. Block up high enough to get the rudderstock out.

I cut a "window" in the side of the rudder after I got it out leaving 4" or so all the way around the side of the rudder. I left the other side be. Then dig out all the old foam. That was the longest part. Turned out it was mostly pretty dry. Then check the attachment of the (two) stainless brackets off the rudderpost to the other side of the rudder . . . the stainless was tabbed to the interior of the PORT side of the rudder. Cut the STARBOARD side only. Check the tabbing, fix it, reinforce it if needed.

I foamed with 6#. Probably not heavy enough, but it was hard as a rock. I used a clear piece of Home Depot like acrylic window material taped and clamped solid to the rudder over the opening, stood the rudder up on end and carefully poured successive pours until I had to untape (Gorilla tape) and unclamp the acrylic and move it up for the last pour - the only one I had to really work/remove excess because the rest of it was kept in place and guided by the acrylic. I used West System and multiple layers of 17 oz biax and faired it out with the WS soft filler. You can't tell. Solid as a rock. Sorry about the order of the photos.
Attachment:
Plexi & gorilla tape to contain expanding foam.jpg

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Attachments:
West hard stuff where rudder was dinged.jpg
West hard stuff where rudder was dinged.jpg [ 833.5 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
Rudder like new.jpg
Rudder like new.jpg [ 625.69 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
rudder going back together.jpg
rudder going back together.jpg [ 777.7 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
Rudder cut & cleaned out..jpg
Rudder cut & cleaned out..jpg [ 625.5 KB | Viewed 0 times ]
 
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 Post subject: Re: Rudder rebuild
PostPosted: 03 Jun 2022 08:57 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 11 Apr 2022 10:25
Posts: 21
Some would say all rudders are wet and that may be close to the truth, but I rebuilt mine as it had several serious issues. It had fine fractures around the pintle pin area and trailing edge. After dropping the rudder I saw the glass was worn off on the leading edge from wearing on barnacles and oysters inside the skeg. The pintle bushing was very worn and pintle pin was honeycombed. The stainless tabs and shaft was sound though and somehow the upper half was dry.

Most important is what Maineiac said above to only open the SB side - port side has steel welded to the post.

It is not a difficult job rebuilding the original and when you get done it'll be better than new.


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File comment: Rudder leading edge wore away
Leading edge 20191214.jpg
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