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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 21 Aug 2020 21:58 
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Midshipman

Joined: 30 Dec 2006 18:37
Posts: 66
Dave,

I will post a couple pictures this weekend. My lines exit the traveler on the stb end and go through the dodger. When I ordered my traveler it was an option configuration. My dodger is the same age, 10 years old, and thereís simply two round holes which the lines go through. Itís an inelegant solution by the guy who made my dodger, and Iíve never liked it but missed my opportunity to have him correct it before I paid him and left the area - Charleston SC.

Having said that, the holes have never enlarged or become damaged. The lines never make contact with the dodger while in use.

If you want the lines led under the dodger Iíd suggest the bottom edge of your dodger be cut higher where the lines lead back to the cockpit. Iím assuming you would have to fashion a fair lead of your control lines exiting the traveler, and bear in mind the more blocks and turns the more friction youíre introducing. My Garhauer traveler adjusts like the proverbial butter. My old traveler, which was original (1977 Hull #22), was a bear to bring up when the main was loaded. No problems now, which means Iím less tempted to tolerate bad position. Sadly, I would hesitate before.

The question of having both control lines on one side of the companionway vs the more traditional way of one on each side is probably mostly preference, but I single hand a lot and i find having both lines together to be much simpler, especially in the dark. Iím not fishing around trying to get a hand on both lines with a good angle to pull/ease. I position to the stbd side to adjust the traveler, and then move to port to ease or tighten the main sheet.

Doug Radabaugh
Kinsale T37 #22


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 22 Aug 2020 10:48 
Offline
Midshipman

Joined: 30 Dec 2006 18:37
Posts: 66
Hopefully a couple pictures. Again, I donít like the way my control lines go through round holes in the glass but itís been 10 years without problems, so I just live with it.

Doug Radabaugh
Kinsale T37 #22


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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 22 Aug 2020 23:03 
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Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 319
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
My dodger has elevated cloth to protect the edges of the isinglass. We didn't ask for it but that's the way the craftsman made it. The chafe guards protect the cloth and the plastic edges.
Attachment:
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_________________
Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 23 Aug 2020 12:39 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Guido at Garhauer is putting vertical blocks at the ends of my traveler, down to the deck and aft to cam cleats either side of the companionway. I guess itís an option vs. the cam cleats on the traveler itself.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 23 Aug 2020 12:41 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
WayneH wrote:
My dodger has elevated cloth to protect the edges of the isinglass. We didn't ask for it but that's the way the craftsman made it. The chafe guards protect the cloth and the plastic edges.
Attachment:
0914-Waiting for the Industrial Lock.jpg


See now thatís what aye was tinkiní


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 24 Aug 2020 13:47 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 653
NP336 wrote:
John,
I believe my traveler and lines lead aft the same way you are rigged. No problems here in 4 seasons .

Cheers,
Nick
S/V Angela Mia
# 336
Lake Superior.



My lines are led the same, I believe, as well. Traveller adjustment on both ends. Main sheet and reef clew controls on port and cunningham, boom vang and topping lift to starboard with the traveller control. The PO of my boat had ordered the boat with a longer traveller and I duplicated its length with Garhauer when I replaced it last year. Guido did a very nice job of making holes so I could tap screws into the hatch hood metal. I had to very slightly shim the original wood struts on the end and put an extra fabricated long 1/4 X 20 bolt in each end to stabilize the thing. Very solid and works beautifully. I am not sure the extended traveller actually adds much to the control of the main with the Garhauer hard vang in place. I think that longer travelers were more useful before folks learned what you can do (including destroying your main sail!) with a hard vang with lots of purchase and control.
If you are really going off shore: here is my belief about reef leading based on a few years off shore in this boat. I have the clew reef lines led on the port side. I rig one of them for coastal sailing and put the other one in when going offshore. I have a very deep second reef because I do not believe in the third reef after being several blows. This boat sails under bare poles and hull and I think you are kidding yourself if you think it will help to have a tiny rag left up there in 40 knots--or thinking you could leave that much unused sail flapping in high winds and seas. I had the main halyard led aft, but put it back on the mast after a few offshore passages---I think it is dangerous to have all that loose sail flapping around in truly bad conditions--you need to up there and get things secured correctly and gasketed neatly and do it before it becomes too hazardous to be up there. I think that aft leading everything compromises my urgency to act, creates a mess of rarely used spaghetti lines that are complicating things, and does not allow meet to make things proper and secure. Tangles and flapping isn't just inconvenient and unseamanlike---I think it can be dangerous.
I am sure others feel differently.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 24 Aug 2020 22:22 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 13 Feb 2011 21:19
Posts: 319
Location: Canyon Lake, TX
Can't remember if I saw this here or on another BB that I am on. So, excuse me if I am repeating this here.

The next time you raise your mainsail on a light wind day, take a Marksalot with you. When you get to the reef cringles, mark the mainsail halyard. One ring for the first reef, two rings for the second reef and three rings if you have three reef points. I marked my halyard at the exit plate.

Now you know when to stop lowering the main to put in a reef. Especially handy if you're late in reefing the main. And it's raining and it's scary.

But I have never rushed my reefing like that. I want the Admiral to go out again so we've always doused the sails and started the engine before the storm hits. Even though we sailed the 21 footer thru rain storms. Hmmm, maybe I should mention that the next time.

_________________
Wayne
Master and Commander of the Sailing Vessel Impetuous
I'm not a complete idiot, some parts are missing.
Subservient to no man except SWMBO
Any day without dock lines is a GOOD day!


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 11 Oct 2022 20:02 
Offline
Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 18 Jan 2021 20:46
Posts: 32
Maineiac wrote:
Guido at Garhauer is putting vertical blocks at the ends of my traveler, down to the deck and aft to cam cleats either side of the companionway. I guess itís an option vs. the cam cleats on the traveler itself.


Maineiac - can you send pictures of this?

_________________
-Steve

Heart of Gold #343
Long Island Sound


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2022 12:53 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Ya ya. I just left the boat and it's blowing 45 and raining sideways, so give me a day or so. At least until the weather abates. Boat went in the water day before yesterday and this is God warning me about busting off across the Gulf of Maine on a 400 mile jaunt.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Winches
PostPosted: 16 Oct 2022 07:08 
Offline
Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Requested photos. Feel free to criticize. I haven't done this in 12 years. I'll be replacing the plastic jam cleats I originally installed for Schaefer metal ones for the traveler control lines. I need to get the centerboard pennant under control, too. It's just kicked out to a cleat right now, which is why it's riding on that turning block from the traveler control. I jumped the gun when replacing hardware around the companionway. All it had was centerboard to stbd, main sheet to port and an unused turning block on teak to stbd. next to the centerboard pennant turning block. I'll have a better idea of what's going on once I get the sails on today.

Ran the engine at 1600 rpm for over an hour yesterday. The Kid did good with the ACR install. Never got the temp to 150 degrees. But the water is friggin' COLD in the River. No smoke whatsoever, no leaks thus far except the obligatory two drops of coolant centered under the engine, presumably coming from the expansion pipe. I'm just a little hinkey about running with the oil pressure at 65-70. It drops to 50-55 at idle.

Oh, and I re-did the exhaust off the manifold out 6" turn 90 up 6" turn 90 down 8" with water injection nipple turn 45 with a hose barb and into the waterlift muffler. I figure this is way better than straight out and down.
Double wrapped with fiberglass insulation. Working good. Throws a LOT of water. I barnacle bustered both the oil cooler and the original heat exchanger and checked them over carefully. When I finally got to installing the Mr. Cool heat exchanger, it won't fit by 3/16" due to the nut on the front end. A little late for a return. I'll see if I can grind that down enough when she gets home to St. Thomas.


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