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 Post subject: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 12 Jul 2020 19:14 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
There's something about Craftsman tools, and one set was on sale at Lowe's so I grabbed it. Kinda nice compared to the Harbor Freight stuff I've been using, but I don't think it's the same Craftsman quality it was 30 years ago.
And a Craftsman impact driver to go with the electric Dewalt driver. The Craftsman worked. Dewalt was simply breaking bits. It took awhile, but 5 are out and the rest turn. 1/10th of a turn with each whack, but it happens. Luckily I quit about 40 minutes ago, hit each recalcitrant with PB Blaster and went and measured my hatch gaskets for the guy at Atkins/Hoyle. They're definitely 1/2" and I got down off the boat and it opened up like I was in the Virgin Islands. Torrential rain at the boatyard. Not a drop 15 miles away at home.

Winch mounts are primed, rudder fairings just need to be trimmed & sanded. cubbies are all filled and ready to be finish sanded, touched up with 407 and primed. I need a week of decent, dry, less than stupid humid, weather. I want to get the mast stepped and see how I want this mess laid out.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 15 Jul 2020 08:24 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Woof. Winded. Just picky and wanted to clean under the traveler track.



New Garhauer will be nice. 6 weeks.


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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 17 Jul 2020 17:12 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Started at 7AM this morning ready to prime, got everything taped, wiped down with fiberglass wash, acetone and . . . as I opened the tack cloth package it started raining. Usually I have to open the can of paint first. White is getting primed white, gray is getting primed gray, white LP on the white and gray LP on the gray with Epifanes "rubber" balls in the paint. Last time I did Awlgrip "plastic" balls it was too sandpaper-esque.

I'll post some status photos when I get a chance.


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File comment: Finishing taping. Pretty much filled and ready to prime.
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File comment: Working on updating everything and deciding on anchors. Took the bow roller off. Looks like original roller was removed by snapping the bolts. Fill it with JB weld. The nuts in the bow roller almost fell off, especially the forward one. No nyloc, and just a flat washer underneath. I'm not sold on Rocna completely, but if I get one, does it require a special bow roller? I know they have multiple types and would just like to make things as easy as possible, but jeez this is getting pricey.
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File comment: Epoxy primer barrier coat (Epiphanes) on mast. Cleaned, sanded w/80 grit, blew off, flooded with white vinegar, wiped down with acetone, tack ragged and rolled out. Quick sanding and finish w/2 part Epifanes white. Hard as a rock. Did 1/2 at a time, rolled it after it cured. We got really big, heavy masts on these things. Trying to find sheaves, but the 4 in there are kinda O.K. Only 3 halyard exits on the mast, though, and only 2 halyards were installed. Need to have a look at adding another main halyard/backup. Had a friend come all the way from FL to the VI with a jammed halyard. Had to dump the whole main, no backup on a Maple Leaf 48. Long trip.
50CCE78B-DE7C-4C74-8B9A-3FDB6DB37BFF.jpeg
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2020 11:59 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
Maineiac wrote:
Woof. Winded. Just picky and wanted to clean under the traveler track.



New Garhauer will be nice. 6 weeks.


The previous owner had ordered the boat with a traveller that was a few inches longer than standard. When I ripped mine out (I had to saw some of the bolts off and rethread some new bolts in a different spot--Garhauer did a perfect job of drilling and fitting to my measurements--even called me to confirm. It made a lot of difference. The Garhauer is overkill for this boat, but the original was inadequate and a much more crude design. I was happy when it broke.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2020 18:48 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
For Guido at Garhauer. I have to post here, then save to my desktop. Can't seem to send them from my camera to my email.


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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 22 Jul 2020 16:41 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I give my 2 part paint job a 6.5 out of 10. It's a 10 foot paint job. Your average person wouldn't see it, but I'm picky. I can see where one could get pretty good at this, but I should have paid someone to shoot it. Couple of runs that I'll rub out with 320 grit and buff. It'll work. Going to let it cure while it rains the next day or two, then re-tape for the nonskid.

Can't get any kind of consistent response from Garhauer for the traveler.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 08 Sep 2020 10:51 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 14 Jan 2014 18:32
Posts: 39
Looks great, thanks for the pictures.

I am replacing my original track with a Garhauer as well, worked with Guido, what a gem.

Do you have pictures of the deck beneath traveler where the bolts come through?

Have not started yet and trying to get a clear idea of what i will be up against and what I will need to remove the bolts and traveler.

Any huge problems getting old bolts out?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 09 Sep 2020 07:21 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I bought a Craftsman hand impact driver that worked. The Dewalt 12V impact driver simply shattered bits. Soaked everything with PB Blaster for a couple days. It will collect in the tops of the bolts, just let it sit, replace it. Largest bit that comes with the Craftsman set, multiple multiple impacts, starting lightly, to turn the bolts out of the sea hood. The stainless to aluminum corrosion just doesn't give up. At first you think they're not going to move. Don't mung up the bolt heads. I got them all out without cutting, but tweren't easy. I do have photos of the overhead, it's just green glass. You start by taking the bungs out and the paneling and trim aft and around the companionway, then drop the cheap overhead panels. I had Guido make oversized backing plates for the traveler ends, vertical drop blocks from the traveler ends and I'll add fairleads aft . . . I'll have to work it out when the traveler shows up. Cam cleats aft. Trouble is, UPS had it being delivered yesterday, then while I was looking at the site, it jumped to next Tuesday.

I filled all the holes (removed everything around the companionway, winches, cleats, etc.) except in the sea hood. I put tape over that just to keep water out. I talked to Guido about going to 5/16ths on the bolts. Don't know yet if he did or not. If so, I'll just drill and tap out the sea hood holes. The traveler ends are filled and will get re-drilled in any event.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 08 Mar 2021 11:16 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 21 Oct 2008 18:33
Posts: 22
I had Guido custom make the stands the proper height so I could attach the traveler to the companion way cover, but the traveler is so strong that I never bothered to drill and tap the holes and install the machine screws. He also angled the cleats toward the bimini zippers so I didn't need a new slot for the control lines.


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S/V Dragonfly, T37 #249
 
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 Post subject: Re: Traveler removal
PostPosted: 08 Mar 2021 14:19 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I covered mine and split 40 days after the last post, above, and headed for the Caribbean for awhile. Your arrangement, utilizing most of the same components, is quite a bit different than mine. My end blocks hang down aft to feed the traveler control lines low and aft to jam cleats. And I think my control blocks are up on the traveler instead of forward. But it's been a few months. It'll all get cleared up by the end of May.


 
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