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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 08 Jun 2007 06:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 27 Oct 2006 10:32
Posts: 827
The toe rails is a job that my wife usually tackles, altough it looks like she's going to use her Carpul-Tunnel as an excuse not to work on it this year!!!! We've (She's) been using the residential version of Cetol. It lasts 2-3 years in the Chesapeake and its available in many more shades plus it's a HELL of a lot cheaper, say around $30/gal. Cheers


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 09 Jun 2007 21:06 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 09 Jun 2007 20:56
Posts: 15
Hello,

I'm a new T37 owner (Tranquility, Hull #279) in Massachusetts. I did major work this winter on just about everything external including all brightwork. On the advice of our yard expert, I used the new Cetol Clear Natural Teak that was just introduced in December. It looks fantastic in both color and finish (sort of a satin/gloss). Its not thick and shiny like multiple coats of varnish. But it's not flat either.

It also goes on very nicely, much better than varnish. Not tacky or gummy at all during application no matter how long you work with it. Three coats is recommended and I did a light scuff with the softest Scotchbright between coats.

I hope this is helpful. I've got many other questions for the group that I'll get to in due time. I've already learned a lot cruising the general maintenance section...

-Scott


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 16 Jun 2007 08:35 
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Midshipman

Joined: 14 Dec 2006 22:13
Posts: 59
I've never tried epoxy. I do concur with walking around the boatyard or the marina and seeing what you like, then talking with the owners. This applies to just about everything on boat maintenance and modifications.

Mark

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Mark
T37 #315, Celtic Lady
Muskegon, MI


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 16 Jun 2007 18:20 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Work has begun on High Flight.
Left is one coat of oil, Right is bare. Haven't seen the grain in ages due to that Cetal stuff. Lower left looks a bit rough so I think a little finish sanding and another coat of oil is called for.
Image

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 23 Jun 2007 18:49 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 12 May 2007 15:32
Posts: 5
Hi All -

Regarding the epoxy/varnish approach, some of the Thistle sailors (17' racing dinghy with teak rails that run the length of the hull and are about 3" wide) used clear epoxy with a varnish top coats and it looked great and was very durable. Thistle rails take a lot of abuse because of the constant hiking and abrasion. The look was pretty much like what you see on a rail with 12 coats of Epifanes.

On my Tartan 37 I have used Cetol for years. I use it because I think it looks good and its extremely easy to apply and maintain. Life is pretty busy for me these days, and I would prefer to get away from the dock when I have the time rather than spend a lot of time on the teak. I can do the annual maintenance coat on all of the exterior teak in about 3-4 hours.

As you can see there are a few different shades (regular, light and now natural). I dont bother with the gloss top coat, but some people really like the gloss look. The thing I like best is that its very forgiving to apply and as it ages, its easy to touch up even if it gets scrapes or cracks.

Regards,
Dennis T37 - American Pie


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 23 Jun 2007 23:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Wow... another Thistle sailor. What are the odds. Though it fits in a very loose Scottish theme with the Tartan I guess. Loved that boat.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options - sort of digression
PostPosted: 15 Jul 2007 12:46 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 12 May 2007 15:32
Posts: 5
I loved my Thistle too - loads of fun when the wind piped up. Did you know that Tartan Marine started its life as Douglass and McLeod (D&M)? Sandy Douglass (I believe he was the Scotsman), orginal designer of the Thistle and Highlander, hooked up with Ray McLeod to build these small boats and a few others for years. Along came Charlie Britton, who commissioned D&M to build the Tartan 27. Later, after a fire destroyed much of the facilities, Charlie continued Tartan Marine without D&M. D&M went on to build the small boats, including the Thistle.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 15 Jul 2007 18:45 
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Skipper

Joined: 20 Oct 2006 16:10
Posts: 687
Location: Out of Waukegan, IL
Cut my sailing teeth on that boat. Preceded by a 14ft Bonito and followed by a C&C 27.
Dulcinea
Image

Back to the original topic... I started the toe rails this week. Ugh! The inside was a bear with the cetol layer taking much effort. The outside was impossible since the polished steel rail was getting scratched by the sander. A guy recommended a heat bun and a shave hook. I'll try that this week. If anyone has a better method of getting to bare, please share. Hand sanders are great for everywhere else, but the rail doesn't like them.

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SMMO/First Mate aboard High Flight #299
1981 - Full Keel - Furling Main (A boat for the lazy crew...)


 
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 Post subject: Re: Toe Rail Varnish Options
PostPosted: 01 Aug 2007 14:02 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 24 Oct 2006 12:51
Posts: 48
Looks like I'm the contrarian here. After some years of using Cetol, I switched to varnish(Interlux Schooner). I have had all exterior teak varnished for almost 10 years. In my opinion, the appearence of varnish is superior and for me, the maintence has been easier.

The trick is keeping the wood work covered when the boat is not in use. I have Sunbrella canvas covers for the rails, etc. I adopted an idea I saw in southern CA-after having a new dodger made, I had a dodger cover made with a full zipper on the aft edge. I had a cockpit cover made that zips onto the dodger cover.

Once a year, if I have any damaged spots or spots that have failed, I scrape off the damaged varnish, blend in with sandpaper and touch up the spots. Then, I lightly sand all woodwork and apply one refresher coat. I have not to completely strip the wood since I started. I believe I might be doing less work than when I had Cetol?? And, I'm doing almost no destructive sanding.

By the way, although Cetol is much tougher to remove, I found that both varnish and Cetol comes off easier with a scraper and a little help from a heat gun.


 
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