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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2019 10:54 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 307
Location: Maine/USVI
Photos. I know they're sideways. Best I can do I guess. There's your rudderpost delrin "washer." If I did it again I'd do it thicker. And a view of the whole assembly headed back upward. Fairing flaps remain on the top, to be fabricated and installed anew on the bottom. Maybe a pressure curved piece of 1/4" plywood to exactly what I want for shape, wax it up and lay up some biax, smooth it with filler, a few stainless screws and fair it out. That's the first guess, anyway. I will use the easiest sanding West filler to replace the "plug" below the pintle. Bondo absorbs and holds water. No good.

I didn't HAVE to cut up the rudder and re-foam it. There were some drops of water coming out of the rudder, so I panicked. The foam was solid inside. The bottom leading point of the rudder had been dinged and leaked a tiny bit. All new now, anyway. Sealed up tight.

Look closely at the rudder photo (click on it to orient it correctly). The top of the rudder is quite wide/thick and different than the bottom. The issue with putting it all back together if you haven't removed the skeg is getting that fat top past everything and up and in. I didn't have to deal with that, but I imagine it takes some serious cramming.


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Last edited by Maineiac on 24 Dec 2019 11:56, edited 1 time in total
 
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 Post subject: Re: Cut off Entire Skeg or Just Fairings to Access Rudder Pi
PostPosted: 24 Dec 2019 11:08 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 307
Location: Maine/USVI
Maybe helpful. I covered roughly half of the opening with clamped battens over a plexi (cheap Lowe's) cover to see what was going on. Drop the end low and pour in. Good clamping and gorilla tape. Then move plexi & clamps, multiple pours so it didn't go crazy. Once the bottom kicked off, remove the plexi and close in the top, keep pouring. Sharp tools to smooth out and level for re-glassing. Drop in the cutout side of the rudder, fill some with West filler to "tack" it in place, fair, then glassed over with biax. Bottom of the rudder got touched up with the hard filler, the whole thing sanded fair, multiple coats of primer/barrier coat.

When I fitted the skeg, I used Gorilla tape to play with it until I decided how much I wanted to cut off. The fwd tip of the top was knocked off and I simply fitted the skeg as properly as I could to the hull receiver (flat area), marked it and cut quite a bit off the back edge. The "new" skegs really don't match up to the hull in any common sense way. I just did my best to match, and will fair everything with soft West. Then, having left over foam from the rudder, I foamed the inside of the skeg, leaving enough room at the top to get the pintle bolt assembly back in. I sealed up the foam with strips of biax. One of these photos you can see I kinda indented the back of the skeg (curvature) when I sealed it up. One thing I should have done was work down the inside top of the skeg to the thickness of the old skeg remnant. It wasn't that great a layup and I don't know how it would have worked out. I had no tools appropriate for doing that, and I'll live with it. You'd need a small air driven grinder. The top of the new Tartan skeg I bought (over $600) was way too thick. The lower (skeg hung) fairing flaps will be added later.


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