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 Post subject: Tartan 37 Hull
PostPosted: 13 Oct 2019 06:18 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 24 Apr 2018 07:43
Posts: 23
Can anyone tell me if the Tartan 37 has a cored hull below the waterline. Thanks


 
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 Post subject: Re: Tartan 37 Hull
PostPosted: 13 Oct 2019 07:34 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 236
It is cored below the waterline. From the inside (IIRC) you can see the point where the core stops and solid glass starts.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Tartan 37 Hull
PostPosted: 13 Oct 2019 19:54 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 24 Apr 2018 07:43
Posts: 23
Thanks for your response


 
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 Post subject: Re: Tartan 37 Hull
PostPosted: 14 Nov 2019 07:34 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 24 Apr 2018 07:43
Posts: 23
Hello again. I asked this question back in October and since then I've gotten mixed answers from different Tartan owners. Is there a general consensus on this forum as to whether the hull of a 1978 tartan 37 is cored below the water line and if so does this pose problems with delamination. Thanks


 
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 Post subject: Re: Tartan 37 Hull
PostPosted: 14 Nov 2019 15:38 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
It is not entirely "cored." But it is generally cored below the waterline (not including the keel). It appears to me that after the initial layup in the hull plug, certain areas were stiffened with sections of balsa, that balsa then got more glass laid over it from the inside. It also appears that the areas around thru-hulls that are factory installed are solid glass. I would caution not to install a thru hull through the balsa core unless you're very careful to seal the balsa completely. Saw someone doing it on Youtube and wasn't wild about what they did.

The balsa was laid in panels and where they're at, from the interior view, is obvious. You can see it in your starboard cockpit locker. Drop down in with a flashlight and look around. The balsa cored areas are proud of the areas where there is no balsa. That said, I can see where water intrusion due to a whack or something might be problematic in a cored section.

If you're concerned, checking with a moisture meter doesn't hurt, understanding that you are dealing with relative readings. Start with a baseline for "really dry" above the waterline in a non-cored area. You WILL show an increase even in solid glass below the waterline, but if there are any issues with the balsa the indicator should show you. This takes practice, and I haven't done it in years.


 
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