Through hull and valve replacement

Maineiac · **Posted:** 14 Jan 2019 08:57

My credo has always been to FIRST punch all the through hulls and replace them. With this boat, most, as I recall, are just standing straight ballcock valves with no base. And in difficult spots to rectify the lack of a base. Bear with me, because I didn't memorize everything on the boat and am focused in other areas. In any event, the 40 year old bronze through hulls should be replaced, especially when there IS no base. Last thing you want is one of those in your hand. Flush exterior flanges are nice, but I was thinking of cutting them all out and replacing with the lipped standard bronze through hulls after filling the flange area where the flush mounts went in.

AND is that coathanger wire that runs end to end in the boat stock equipment or a bonding system someone stuck in there? It goes through the bilge running from backstay to headstay chainplates and picks up stuff in between.

Mike · **Joined:** 09 Jul 2008 12:51 **Posts:** 251

You remind me of me,,,, I have obsessed on things over the years and now, when I give it a rest for a while, see that what ever I get focused on isn't worth it. Next time you haul out check your thru hulls and if they're not leaking already,,,, give it a rest and I'm sure if you wait long enough you'll be obsessing on something different soon enough. Just my experience....good luck

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

The through hull fittings on my boat were all flush mounts buried in the laminate at some point. I have replaced them all. One had a pinhole leak inside (the sink and I think that was stray current from the washdown pump I teed to the drain). The rest showed nothing when removed. I recommend you go at them from the outside to remove them. Put a dowel in the center and use a hole saw or just grind the layer of glass and putty that hides them. I drilled and filled and put some new glass around my replacements. A messy job, but not difficult.
The wire bonding is copper wire. I am not sure it does anything. I think it could be nice to have the mast grounded to the keel in case you get hit by lightening, but that could work both ways. I have not had a big problem with electrolysis on the fittings, but that is going to vary on your environment. Some marinas are deadly.
Ray

Maineiac · **Posted:** 17 Jan 2019 09:30

With the lipped thru hulls I use a grinder and cut four opposed cuts in the edge of the lip toward the center, then drive each 1/4 ear into the middle and pull them inside. Quick, but you have to be careful with the grinder. Never took out the flush mount ones, but anticipated the dowel and hole saw method. Thanks for making me think about it. It's gotta be done.

Tartan37.com

Through hull and valve replacement

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