Press. water: Any warnings?

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 29 Apr 2007 10:56

We had a hose burst in the bilge last season. It's the pressure water hose the travels laterally along the divider in the bilge from the pump across to supply the head. We'll be replacing it soon and I assume we can thread a new one thought the same path with minimal headaches. Anyone been there and have warnings? I haven't even traced the route yet.

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

I replaced all the fresh water hoses. Both fill hoses were replaced with Vac Extra Heavy Duty/FDA White multi purpose, extra heavy, smooth walled, vinyl hose for boat and marine sanitation systems. Excellent for critical bilge, drain, scupper line, and potable water fill applications. The pressurized hot and cold water hoses were replaced by conventional nylon reinforced clear PVC hose, red tracer for hot and clear for cold from http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... r+PVC+Hose . The original pumps were rebuilt and are waiting to be put back in service.

To get at the head fresh water hoses you will have to open the forward end of the port seat and cut away the foam to expose the hoses. You will be surprised by the additional storage space you have in this area.

I took the opportunity to repair some rot in plywood next to the hull.

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 30 Apr 2007 00:21

Thanks! It's so nice going into it with pics.
Bow

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 14 May 2007 10:34

After checking out the area, there is no way to get that hosed replaced without making the same access cut as above. The hose travels across the bilge and into a stuffing tube. It doesn't budge so I'm guessing it's packed with... (Hmm... I only know the Navy term) "monkey shit" to prevent water communication from the bilge.

So our options are to remove the seat altogether or cut the access hole like your pic. Question is, can you get to the hose aft of the hole from that access? Seems like it goes into the stuffing tube and then must run between the tank and the seat front until the tank ends.

As a temp fix we're just plugging that line off at the Tee at the pump outlet. So no cold water in the head until we make time to replace the line.

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

High Flight,

I would be much easier to cut the access hole than remove the port seat. I think you will be able to cut as far outboard as I did with out removing the cabinetry. Be sure to measure the length of the port water tank before cutting. You do not want to cur through that by mistake! The hoses are bedded in some kind of fiberglass foam (very nasty). Once you cut the hole and cut away the foam you?ll have access to the hoses. To complete the rest of the run, I cut an access hole under the head to reach the hoses and for possible future replacement of the head altogether (maybe). ). I finished by making a cover out of teak, marine grade plywood, similar to the ones covering the access holes for the H20 tanks.

Mark

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

I replaced one of my hoses using a male-male straight coupling to attach the new hose to the old and carefully pulled the new one thru using the old one. You can wrap electric tape around the joint to strengthen it, but hose clamps will interfere with the travel. My Tartan has the hosing running up from underneath the floor and not above the port tank. Of course if your hosing can be re-routed in a different location, simply( Confused

) cut and abandon the old hose and run the new hose in a different direction.
Good luck, Tom

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 16 May 2007 12:35

Thanks for the tips guys. We were hoping to use the "messenger" method until we tugged on the stub in the bilge. It's really jammed into that stuffing tube.

Sorry for the "Bigfoot photo" but the camera didn't like the lighting/proximity. This is under the forward bilge hatch looking to port.

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IMG_1042-text.jpg [ 542.64 KB | Viewed 0 times ]

The split happened in the bilge about at the centerline.

t37-panacea · **Joined:** 23 Dec 2006 17:26 **Posts:** 75

Down2TheC,

The hoses runs through the hard foam forward of the port H20 tank that acts like glue to hold everything in place. You will find this foam on the starboard side as well, holding the starboard water tank in place. You will be very hard pressed to replace the hoses without doing the surgery described above. You can also see in the pix # 3 Fresh water hose, that it has some tough angles to make as well.

If you are looking for an easier fix you might try the suggestion by Tortuga's Lie or just replacing the bad part of the hose with a new one spliced in place. If you hoses are anything like mine were, they were really nasty and needed complete replacement! It was another of those projects that takes on a life of its own. Good luck!

Mark

Down2TheC · **Posted:** 16 May 2007 16:06

Exactly correct. We will be performing the surgery using your pics as a guide. The portion of the old hose that traverses the bilge is nasty, brittle, and surely will split again. I'm contemplating some coating or covering for that stretch. It has degraded much more than the segments in the other spaces. (Bilge splashing Question

)
Thanks for all the warnings and pics!
helm

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

An idea just hit me........ run a smaller diameter tube thru the original tube....lubricate it with the stuff electricians use for snaking wires...might work. You would have to step back up to the original diameter once the tube exits so it will fit the faucet fittings. Just an idea.....

Tartan37.com

Press. water: Any warnings?

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