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 Post subject: Once again, chainplates . . .
PostPosted: 16 Jul 2018 16:04 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Chainplates.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Once again, chainplates . . .
PostPosted: 18 Oct 2018 16:49 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Jan 2017 11:41
Posts: 3
Are you looking for chainplates?


 
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 Post subject: Re: Once again, chainplates . . .
PostPosted: 20 Oct 2018 16:03 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
No, I'm working on the boat. I had been asking questions, not getting any help so I backed off. The aft chainplates are poorly engineered. Period. I'll be pulling all of mine for inspection. Not a fun task, but doable. If you need chainplates, they'll have to be made up by someone that knows what they're doing. Mine look like they may have been replaced at some point in the past. Fingers crossed. Magnaflux makes a dye that works well.

I'm currently bringing back the original gelcoat in one of what seems to be the very few dark blue hulls that were made. Wetsanding, compounding, etc. Never again.

Putting in eight Newfound stainless ports as well. I've got one week to order as of day before yesterday before the price goes up, up, up due to stupidity (not on the part of Newfound).

Seems like a great boat thus far. Here's a tip: don't let a yard block the aftmost end of the keel. It's hollow, and now I see I've got some glasswork to do. I've seen the same thing with Endeavours (much thinner hollow area) and my Pearson 10M. Know where your blocking goes and mark it in the slings (or trailer) before the yard puts it down.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Once again, chainplates . . .
PostPosted: 21 Oct 2018 12:30 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
It's not a lightweight hollow like the Endeavours and the keel-end fairing on the Pearson 10M. I ground away the delam and wrote in big black letters "DO NOT BLOCK HERE . . . HOLLOW". I'll do the West System dance later. It WAS inside, the yard decided they could use space more efficiently without the blow boat in the way, and moved me outside pending the move to another shed. AFTER I took out 2 portlights. Honest to God, every time I turn around it's something else.

So I've experimented with the gelcoat. I'm going to do a full wetsanding with 800#, then compound with Meguiars. We'll wax next spring. A lot of painty looking gelcoat repairs that I can work out and at least take a shot at matching. I need to get the heavy 1 party polyurethane boot stripe and cove stripe off. The cover of the cove was red tape. It looks like the T37 and logo are etched into the hull. I'll use a square palm sander on that stuff after taping it off, working ever upward in grit from a light shot with 80# and on from there (I'm impatient). There was a white boot underneath. I'll use Yacht Perfection 2 part for the new stripes. That'll outlast me.

I don't think I'm going to have to go crazy with electrical gear stripping the bottom. The stiff, bent 3" or so putty type knife from Lowe's with the beveled edge is removing paint like a champ. It's got a handle receiver in the end, and I'll put in a 2' wooden handle. My son figured 1.5 days to scrape the bottom. That's what it used to take me to soda blast a bottom this size. Then we'll do a sanding to clean it up, fair it and set it up for barrier coat.


 
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