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 Post subject: T37-2 Rudder Design
PostPosted: 19 Jul 2018 12:22 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 19 Nov 2009 16:17
Posts: 11
Reflections #434 here. Does anyone have design blueprints or any design information for the T37 Rudder assembly? My rudder is loose on the shaft, it rubs against the hull extension above when in the water (floats up) and drops all the way down on the pintle when out. So, there is about 1/4 inch play up and down as if the rudder has broken loose for vertical movement. The rudder still moves side to side so I have steerage but I don't know why it goes up and down but still moves side to side with some resistance from the rubbing.

Has anyone had a similar experience? A design to see how the rudder is assembled would help, I can't find one. It looks like I need to repair or replace.

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Steve
T37 "Reflections" - Hull 434
Hingham, MA


 
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 Post subject: Re: T37-2 Rudder Design
PostPosted: 21 Jul 2018 19:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
You're missing the top 1/4" thick white delrin or nylon bushing.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: T37-2 Rudder Design
PostPosted: 04 Aug 2019 18:30 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
I just installed my rudder 2 hours ago. I contemplated taking some fiberglass out of the top inside of the skeg, but we decided not to. It might have limited the "float." I can lift the rudder up 1/4" or so . . . maybe 3/8" . . . until the delrin washer I put on the top of the rudder (which wasn't there) stops it against the hull extension. I think it's a dumb design, and there really is nothing inside the boat holding the rudder except a set screw on the quadrant. The pintle bushing, when in the water, seems to be just a capture mechanism, not a weight bearing unit. I have bolts into the rudder post for my Raytheon autopilot, so it can't just drop out (which it wouldn't without a major failure of the pintle bolts), but that had nothing to do with Tartan. So yeah, it floats up, and there needs to be some form of "washer" on the rudderpost between the rudder and the hull to prevent it from binding against the hull. Four bolts on the pintle plate, and on the hard they are carrying the weight of the rudder and the quadrant. Not well thought out. But I've got her back up to speed. I'll make it work.


 
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 Post subject: Re: T37-2 Rudder Design
PostPosted: 05 Aug 2019 08:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
So, it is apparent that the heavily foamed rudder is intended to "float." I sealed the hell out of mine after re-foaming it with 8# closed cel foam. If I wasn't so tech challenged I'd post more photos. The "float" may only be 1/4" or so, but when a yard monkey repairs a rudder such as this, I can see where the delrin washer at the top might be neglected. The one I installed really is only about 1/8" thick, but it makes everything clear. Chris at Tartan was helpful for a minute, then ceased responding to my (very non-critical) inquiries. I just wanted design answers. When in the water, the buoyancy of the rudder take the weight off the pintle plate and the pintle bushing is merely a capture mechanism. This means that in the water the quadrant "floats up" as well. This was my concern when I asked my Son for his vote on grinding some glass out of the inside of the skeg - get the pintle plate up higher. He said probably not, the quadrant can be attached anywhere along the keyway and the autopilot arm assembly adjusted appropriately. My concern was the steering cables always running fair to the quadrant and the sheaves. So I guess our final adjustment will be in the water on the dock.


 
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