Help With New Strut Installation

Ex Hobie Sailor · **Posted:** 10 Nov 2017 10:42

Searched the posts, it seems with strut off shaft comes out.
There was talk about not reusing the coupling because you lose the close tolerance between shact anf co upling, and thjs is a special fit ? So new shaft, new coupling ?

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Yes for sure, it will slide past the rudder

Richard

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Hey Todd, I'm not a lot of help with your questions since I had a yard do mine, but I had this done a year or so ago. Most of the same circumstances, and I ended up replacing all of it, coupling, shaft, cutlass, and strut. New stuffing box was actually what started the dominoes falling for me.

cseltzjr · **Joined:** 16 May 2009 08:06 **Posts:** 236

Whether or not you buy a new coupling, you still have to take it to the machine shop with the shaft to have the flat side milled true to the shaft. If the old coupling is in good condition, there is no reason why it can't be reused but it still has to be milled.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

No. Unfortunately. It came close, but I had to saw the skeg cover off. Not really that hard to glass it back, so do not miss the opportunity to do things right.

Ray Durkee
T37 #373

berwick · **Joined:** 21 Oct 2006 18:12 **Posts:** 325

Weird I had enough room, I had slide the stuffing box hose forward off the stern tube which allowed me to angle the shaft to either side of the skeg and rudder and come out.

Richard

Ex Hobie Sailor · **Posted:** 13 Nov 2017 19:30

Well Attacked Strut and Shaft today. Old strut says Tartan on in faintly, must be original. I was suprised, there is a hole in the hull where the strut fits in, inside the hull it looks like at least a tube of 5200 and G-10 backing plate glued to it. Strut was fitted to 5200. They must have used a release agent because it came off with a few taps on each side. I can't imagine this is how tartan originally installed it. Strut is bolted into an oversize patch of 5200 and G-10 ?
Would have thought it would be more structural than that. I never had a problem with it, no leaks at all, and seemed pretty strong. Boat would sink fast if it came apart though.
With the Strut off, Shaft came right out around the skeg, with plenty of room, my shaft measured about 48.5 inches long and was worn at cutlass bearing and shaft packing. New strut should bolt right up though.

I found out Algonac Marine Cast in Michigan, made the struts for Tartan. They have been great to deal with, my new strut is cast and being machined, now I just need a new shaft. Maybe dripless shaft seal ? Right now I have Teflon Packing which worked pretty well. Will have to research.

Thanks again for all the input guys !

Todd Cheers

S/V Bleu Moon

Ex Hobie Sailor · **Posted:** 13 Nov 2017 22:16

I hope I'm wrong about strut mounting to hull, still cant believe it is the way I described. The mounting bed surface was flexible or rubbery to the touch, did not probe it any deeper.

Todd
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull#439

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

That does not sound like the original way the strut was attached. I think. PO may have replaced it. Mine had a glass backing plate and only some reasonable sealant on it. Tartan was selling replacement struts at one point—I bought a replacement from them that was stamped Tartan. I was wrong about not being able to get the shaft out with the rudder fairing in place—I can see that removing the strut would make that possible.
I don’t want to start a varnish war here, but, as a delivery skipper, I did not love any of the mechanical dripless stuffing box seals. They are impossible to fix in the water and, IMHO, a hazard for open ocean work for that reason. Also, they have been rendered old school by the new stuffing materials that can be made dripless (black GTex). I have been using the stuff for 20 years and it does not leak and does not score the shaft if it is installed correctly. It does require a bit of break in attention (slow tightening of eighth inch turns over the first few hours of running until it just runs dry), but it is dry, and can be fixed underway and is less complex and costly. I actually delivered a boat with one of the mechanical seals recently and ....wonder of all wonders.....it did not leak or fail on the 500 mile trip. So maybe they have been improved and are OK. I just do not trust them. I had a most unpleasant experience 60 miles off shore when a bellows failed several years ago. You can imagine how that went. A dash for a harbor and an unplanned and costly (for the owner) haul. But if you like spending money and stay close to shore.......they probably are OK. Boatyards like the margins on them. I just fail to see the practical value of them. Buy a good Aquamet shaft. They are worth the extra money when it comes to alloys and wear.
FWIW.
Ray Durkee

Ex Hobie Sailor · **Posted:** 14 Nov 2017 10:34

Thanks Ray for your take on dripless shaft seals, I like reliability and dont want to be limited in cruising grounds. Will also check into Aquamet shafts. Was also reading about close tolerances of shaft hub and presses fit on shaft. How do you tap on coupling without any back up on shaft ? Compass Marine How To site recommends reinstalling a split coupling on shaft when reinstalling. Sounds like a good idea. My Maxi Prop was also moving at least 1/8" on shaft to its pinned location. Not sure if lousy install from PO or most likely wear. May need new prop or at least refurb of Maxi. Job needed to be tackled, but more involved than I thought.

Todd
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull# 439

Tartan37.com

Help With New Strut Installation

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