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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 15 Nov 2017 13:36 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I am not familiar with a split coupling (unless you are talking about it being in two parts—one on the transmission and the other on the shaft—that is common and I know of no alternative. As someone else mentioned it is important to get the new coupling “faced” with your new shaft at the machine shop, It must be absolutely 90 degrees or you will have a vibration you cannot resolve in your drive train. While I have not agreed with everything on his site and he goes a bit overboard on just “one way to do it”, the Compass Marine site is one of the very best I have found for DIY work, so I will go with him if there is some new product for couplings. I generally like to avoid brand new stuff until it has had a chance to be vetted with folks who actually use it out cruising a few years. When you get this all together, spend the time to make sure you have it all perfectly aligned. I am not fond of trying to cover up problems with gadgets like “drive savers”. They may help, but they are covering up something that probably should be dealt with at the source. Like new pharmaceuticals, new gizmos are marketed as wonder drugs until the longer term side effects come around.
Ray Durkee
T37 #373


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 18 Nov 2017 09:32 
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Tactictian

Joined: 20 Nov 2014 16:20
Posts: 106
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island NY
Hi Ray,
Planning on doing the engine mounts while all is apart. Plan on boring hole in cockpit sole to get to lifting eye on engine. Use a 4x4 across cockpit and lift engine, then either fiberglass plug or install SS 3' deck plate. Leaning towards the Deck Plate. No place to lift rear of engine from inside, I have a Westerbeke W-33. Will take a picture or two when doing this. This is the best way I have thought of tackling job, my friend with who attended Mass Maritime and sails Morgan 323 agrees. Did find something solid where strut attaches, glad of that. PO or Tartan bastardized the holes on strut to match holes on backing plate. Old strut holes are elongated and enlarged, really concerned with aligning to shaft log. Oh well, one step at a time.

Todd S/V Bleu Moon


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Todd McCarthy
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439
 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 18 Nov 2017 09:42 
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Tactictian

Joined: 20 Nov 2014 16:20
Posts: 106
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island NY
Thought of (Option 1) over drilling the holes on new strut to give me more clearance, really wanted at least two holes to line up, or (Option 2) filling existing G-10 backing plate with epoxy and re-drilling from strut to backing plate, but would have to be exact mounting to line up with shaft log. This would be the last step once engine mounts, shaft is lined up with log, and finally strut install. Running out of time this fall, will most likely finish in the spring. Have Max prop out for refurb, should hear soon. Then have shaft made, and lap hub to shaft and face coupling. This Old Boat !

Todd
S/V Bleu Moon

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Todd McCarthy
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 18 Nov 2017 15:12 
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Skipper

Joined: 16 May 2009 08:06
Posts: 236
I replaced my engine mounts 2 at a time (front then back) with pretty simple frame up inside. When you are only jacking up 1/2 the engine it is not that big a deal. I think I attached a 2x4 to the lifting points fore and aft on the engine and it extended forward and aft. I hoisted the front of the engine from a 2x4 across the companionway hatch slides and in the back, I think I just made a simple A frame. I think cutting a hole in the cockpit sole is overkill. $.02


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 18 Nov 2017 21:52 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
A agree that cutting a hole to lift the engine is overkill. I second the recommended process of jacking up the front and then the back. If you really have to get at the bed to drill new holes or something, You can just slide the engine forward into the galley area and on to a framework of 2X4s (see the engine replacement section in the technical section on this site for how I did it). Much simpler if you really have to get at the bed. But I would avoid this if you can. You might want to read the engine replacement piece anyway for suggestions about positioning the new motor mounts. The engine comes out nicely (once the manifold and alternator has been removed) up through the companionway.
Ray Durkee
T37 #373


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2017 09:10 
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Tactictian

Joined: 20 Nov 2014 16:20
Posts: 106
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island NY
Beam across the engine and jack the beam, good idea, will see if I can do it that way also. Thanks for the tips, no holes cut yet !
Todd
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439

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Todd McCarthy
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 19 Nov 2017 12:20 
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Tactictian

Joined: 20 Nov 2014 16:20
Posts: 106
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island NY
No way those rear mounts are coming out, engine pitched sharply to stern, mounting bolts tack welded to backing plates
And glassed into engine stringers. Engine would have to be lifted at same angle straight up to clear mounting studs. One mount bolt not coming off either, threads must be galled, I think this job is beyond my expertise, but I tried. Front mount was a peice of cake ! Just trying to do the right job, while everything is apart. Would have to hire yard to pull engine, will live with it for now, thier not really giving me trouble.

Todd
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439

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Todd McCarthy
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439


 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2017 19:35 
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Tactictian

Joined: 20 Nov 2014 16:20
Posts: 106
Location: Great South Bay, Long Island NY
Ok, back to Plan A to change out Motor Mounts on Westerbeke W-33 so I can do a decent alignment on new Strut and Shaft. Mounts were also 34 years old I think ? Cut hole in cockpit floor and rigged come-a-long to lift engine, Put tension on rig, worked perfectly. Have a friend to help out Saturday to balance engine while lifting and reset engine on new mounts. Front mount was easy with a small hydraulic jack. The front mount is bolted to the engine block on a bracket,. I disconnected bracket and freed up rear mounts, exhaust hose, disconnected wiring harness. I think job will go smoothly ! Thanks again for all the suggestions, I really appreciate it !
Todd
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439


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Todd McCarthy
S/V Bleu Moon
Hull #439
 
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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 24 Nov 2017 12:19 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
Is the T37 strut a std part number? And what the number might be? Another question what's the lead times? I'm planning on doing mine in two years. Mine was looking a little rosy to me, but had too much on my plate to replace last haulout. It can be replaced without dropping the rudder, correct?

When I just replaced the W50 with the Beta 35. We built a skid to slide the motor on. Made out of 2x4s it's like an extension of the bedplate. Used a block and tackle from the mast to pull it forward. Would of been easy to replace the mounts, during that process. I would hate to cut holes, the nonskid very hard to patch up.

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 Post subject: Re: Help With New Strut Installation
PostPosted: 24 Nov 2017 13:56 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
If you have the coupling faced by the guys who prepare your shaft with the tapers and keyways, you will not have to force it or tap it much. It will fit snug and perfectly with the gentle tap—the retaining screws (with the proper drilled dimples in the shaft are what help keep the shaft from backing out in reverse (be sure to drill the dimples, tighten the machine screws on the coupling and safety wire them). That is what precision facing the coupling to the shaft makes possible. Look on You tube to see the right way to insert a key in the slot (I am sure there is one). It should be the right side up and not too far into the keyway—-either of these done incorrectly can cause problems. It is not hard and will be obvious if everything is ground correctly.

I am sure there is a generic YouTube video on this whole process somewhere. It is not difficult or beyond the average person to effect, but it takes care to do it properly.

Ray Durkee
T37
#373


 
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