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 Post subject: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 18 Jun 2016 11:08 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Jan 2013 21:09
Posts: 13
I need to remove the bow plate on my 1982 Tartan 37, I have already taken the stemhead fitting off and the 2 little screws at the back of the plate. I'm guessing the bow chocks need to be removed as well but after 30 years of living on the ocean they are in there pretty good. Any suggestion about how best to preceded would be greatly appreciated. I called Art at Tartan to check if they have any or know of anybody that would have a replacement bow plate he told me the best place to check is this forum.

Thanks all advance


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 21 Jun 2016 15:59 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
My mooring slipped off an underwater cliff and the painter ripped out my chock so I have experience replacing my chock screws. The chock is tapped into the aluminum and is likely impossible to remove at this point if your boat has been in salt water. I think I would try to use an impact tool and a lot of force, but it is possible that that will just break off the bolts. I have bee able to remove other parts of the rail with an impact tool, so I would certainly give it a try with some soaking of PB blaster or the like and possibly a little heat. I had to redrill the chock and retap the whole thing for the next size larger machine screws. This required redrilling the chock so the larger screws would fit. I do not think that you could tell now that all this has been done. I do not thing this is a big problem. What necesssitated this removal?

Ray Durkee
T 37 #373
Velera


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 28 Jun 2016 16:55 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Jan 2013 21:09
Posts: 13
Thanks for the reply Ray,

My bow roller pop off the bow plate. after removing the bow roller I notice the bow plate had a crack in it starting at the back of stemhead fitting that is through bolted into the deck. I removed the plate, which was badly corroded anywhere it came into contact with stainless steel ( under the stemhead fitting , under the bow roller ) I am considering the following two options and I am open to any suggestion if anyone has addressed this issue before.

1 Have a welder weld an aluminum plate on top of the old peaces reforming the bow plat, taking all the labor out of trying to reform the curves, But for strength he wants to weld the stemhead fitting and the bow roller together on the bow plate re-tape the bow roller screws and use the one through bolt for the roller and two through bolts on the back of the stemhead . I'm not crazy about this idea he said he did on his boat to correct a similar issue and never had a problem with this set up.
Price $200.00

2 Use the old bow plate as a template and have a stainless guy try and duplicate it.

Price $700.00

Any feed back would be much appreciated.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 29 Jun 2016 07:25 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I would be concerned, as apparently you are, about welding the stem fitting to the bow roller. You would be introducing some very different stresses on the fittings at a critical point of high stress. Also, I think that welding stainless is always a bit of a gamble as you have to introduce multiple alloys in the welding process that seem to induce corrosion. There are at least two reasons stainless stanchions rust and break at their bases.
I do not have an opinion on specifically what you should do positively. I would seek a machinist/fabricator with a good marine background. As long as you have come this far, probably would be inclined to do it right as you do not want to worry about this when you are punching into those square waves at 2 in the morning.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 20 Jul 2016 19:05 
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Skipper

Joined: 29 Dec 2006 09:38
Posts: 656
I was able to redrill and tap the chock and rail to the next larger sized screw. I do not recall how I measured the depth but I worried about the same thing. But there is room if you use the same length as the original. They are tapped, with no nuts. I did not put nuts on them. It is a shear force that broke the old one, it did not pull out. I would say that my new situation is better than new. I had to machine the chock to accept the larger screw. I measured the depth and had no issue. It has been through a couple storms since with no problems.

Ray


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 21 Nov 2016 21:22 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Jan 2013 21:09
Posts: 13
Hello all,
just a follow-up, I wanted to thank all for posting on this subject. I had the bow plate fabricated out of stainless with three-quarter around welded around the outside to match the existing rub rail. the welder then ground out the piece and had it highly polished. I also had to reinforce the bow roller. I have attached pictures of the project, the welder was excellent to work with and was very knowledgeable.The pictures show before during and after if you ever wondered what it looks like under the bow plate take a look.


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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 18 Sep 2017 20:19 
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Able Bodied Seaman

Joined: 23 Jun 2017 01:05
Posts: 27
Beautiful job, cost was as quoted, $700 for all that stainless work?

_________________
Timoko
Tartan 37 Farallon Flyer
Hull # 135, deep fin keel
San Francisco Bay


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 20 Sep 2017 07:49 
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Skipper

Joined: 09 Aug 2017 15:35
Posts: 725
Location: Maine/USVI
Wicked purty.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 13 Oct 2017 19:13 
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Rail Meat

Joined: 01 Jan 2013 21:09
Posts: 13
Sorry for taking so long to reply I was locked out of the form, good to be back.

Yes the welder did it for $ 700. He's a great guy who's main business is making replacement aluminum fuel tanks do to ethanol.


 
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 Post subject: Re: Removal of bow plate
PostPosted: 14 Oct 2017 07:53 
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Skipper

Joined: 14 Jul 2012 20:36
Posts: 495
Location: Norfolk, Va
The bow plate looks great and first rate.

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Hull #208, Puff Card
Southern Chesapeake Bay


 
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