removing portside aft chain plate

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

Does anyone have any pearls of wisdom as to how the cabinet behind the head can be remove so that one can get at the portside aft chainplate?
Frustrating

I am seeing the beginnings of rust at the junction of the horizontal and angled sections and I want to closely examine. I would hazard a guess that the chainplates have not been pulled in the 34 year life of this boat, so I am trying to avert a disaster.

WayneH · **Posted:** 12 May 2011 07:56

With everything on this boat, You have to remove 4 or 5 other things to get to what you want to remove.

You have to remove the trim pieces from the top and the two sides. The left side piece comes off as a unit so just unscrew the screws on the edges of the piece. (I think it's 3 screws). Remove the trim piece on the aft side of the sink countertop before removing the right side piece. Remove the top trim piece.

Now you have 4 screws holding the cabinet to the hull. 2 on each side on the forward and aft sides. Remove them and the cabinet unit will be free of the hull. Slide the unit straight out and rotate it 90 degrees so it will exit through the head door (BARELY).

You now have access to the chainplates. The forward lower plate requires removal of the forward cabinet unit to see both sides of the chainplate. Same procedure but it is held in with only 3 screws.

What I can't remember off the top of my head was whether the screws hold the left side piece were countersunk and plugged. The screws hold the left side piece together were plugged and DO NOT need to be removed. Less plugs to reinstall later.

If you have the deep red teak interior, let me know and I'll give you the recipe my wife created to nearly match original color.

We taped the screws to each piece they came from so that we could remember where they went back. Oh, and the screws holding the cabinet to the hull are different lengths. Let me know which side the LONG ones go to. Embarassed

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

I'm looking forward to this task also. I'm wondering if I could get away with using two halyards to replace the upper shrouds and use nothing to replace the lowers while the chain plates are out of the boat. Any thoughts on that idea appreciated.

Jim

Tortuga's Lie · **Joined:** 27 Oct 2006 10:32 **Posts:** 827

The halyard method works well, just tension them with the winch a bit and your good to go. With the keel stepped mast, it's fairly stable.

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

And with any kind of luck I'll be able to just reinstall the old chainplates.

NAM · **Joined:** 22 Jun 2008 10:54 **Posts:** 85

Thanks Wayne. I did take off the top and right side trim, but the left triangular box is a stumper. I removed the triangular panel that runs athwartship on the box but can seem to figure out how the fore/aft panel disengages from the bulkhead. I though at first that long screws through the internal cleats, but this is not the case. I manage to strip out the screws holding the panel to the forward cleat so I need to extract them before I go on. Embarassed

WayneH · **Posted:** 19 May 2011 09:23

I'm pretty sure my piece was countersunk and plugged. Look near the top and bottom for the teak plugs and carefully dig them out. (yeah, I got scratches on the board. dangit)

Brain fart. I can't remember if there is a trim piece on the trim piece on the left side which would hide the screw hole from you. Probably, cuz they're everywhere else. LOL.

Ardea · **Joined:** 19 Mar 2007 16:40 **Posts:** 195

Here's a tip for removing teak bungs to gain access to the screws they hide that I've used with varying success. Using a screwdriver bit in a drill motor screw a Pillips head wood screw into the middle of the bung. It will hit the head of the screw below the bung and pull the bung out. It doesn't always get the whole bung out of the hole but if you can remove at least part of it you can dig the remainder out with a sharp tool. Don't spin the extracting screw against the screw head in the hole too long or you'll bugger up the head of the screw you're trying to remove. If you try and remove the screw from the bung hole without removing all the bung it can hold the head in the hole and strip the screw threads in the surround teak making it difficult to remove the screw from the hole. Be sure not to glue the bungs back in the holes in case you need to remove them in the future. YMMV

Jim

zdunc · **Joined:** 24 Sep 2013 09:20 **Posts:** 393

Old post but was very useful to me. I followed WayneH's instructions, and they are perfect. Thanks! One thing I'll add is once I had everything apart, when I tried to slide my cabinet out, the aft top corner was just slightly too high and was catching on the headliner/fiberglass above the headliner. I tried to move, shake, pry, anything, everything, but couldn't get it to come out. I took a break, and then when I came back, somehow I maneuvered it just right, and it slid right out. I did see where someone had drawn a line across where a cut would need to be made. So maybe someone in the past had tried this and given up. I may have made just enough space from all my prying. Don't really know for sure.

Also, in response to WayneH above, all 4 of my screws holding the cabinet in place were the same length.

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removing portside aft chain plate

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