Edson Steering Idler Pullies

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Last week after a particularly rough passage in heavy wind/seas I noticed some gold colored metal debris on a cockpit cushion that I had stored in the sail locker. I suspected it had come from the Edson steering brass idler pullies. On inspection, I noticed quite a bit of misalignment on the starboard pully. The nut anchoring the adjusting screw through the deck had come loose and the idler was free to move around. The pully itself seems to have developed some slop due to wear in the bushing/bearing surface or pin that secures it. While replacing this hardware does not seem overly difficult, one thing that struck me is the very acute angle these pullies must take to align with the radial drive wheel over the quadrant. It seems that, given the geometry and the range of idler adjustment, there is no way to achieve perfect alignment and that the wire will always push laterally on the pullies. I'm wondering if others have found this to be the case or if I'm missing something. I subsequently re-adjusted the idler to squeeze the pullies in as close together as possible but it's not enough.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Thanks. Good to know I'm not the only one! I will try replacing the sheaves and the pins although modifying the raceway is tempting. From what I saw though, not much wiggle room to do this. Sheaves are $92 each for plain 4" AL. Pretty pricey if you ask me.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Follow-up after speaking with Edson.

Had a long and detailed conversation with Will Keene who has worked at Edson for over 40 years. He was the guy who worked with Tim Jacket at Tartan on the 37 and was extremely helpful. Will suggested that I replace the idler and the chain/wire. Hard to argue with that since I'm still using the original hardware. There have been design changes to the idler since ours were installed, namely the material is now forged aluminum while the old design used mild steel for the base and brass or bronze for the sheaves.

He was surprised to hear about any misalignment of the idler sheaves in our boats but mentioned that it was OK to file the raceway a bit and also OK for the sheave housings to come into contact with each other.

So, I'm another $800+ lighter but I guess this is a pretty important system. FWIW I will post pics of my old hardware after it's removed. I doubt I have much corrosion being the boat is in the Chesapeake but these idlers rust from the top down so you might not see corrosion until its removed.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 05 Aug 2021 13:57

Yes, all pics please. I have to wonder if this isn't the issue, in conjunction with a BIG rudder, that causes many a rebuild around the rudderpost on the T37. Mine was done a few years ago by the PO.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Unaligned idler pullies can cause steering gear failures. They won't cause rudder post gusset / stiffener failures like I had. Those are most likely cause by going astern and letting go of the wheel causing the rudder to slam into the stops. I can see how allowing this to happen repeatedly would eventually crack the gussets. FWIW, my repair has held up well so far and I'll likely lay another layer of glass over the top in the off season.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 07 Aug 2021 05:23

Jeez. Can I get you to come paint my hull inside? And maybe help jack the Detroit 4-53 out of the Dyer and put the Westerbeke back together today?

I bought, but refuse to take the hull, a T34C that includes a new Edson binnacle (along with another $10K of new, unused electronics, Cap Horn vane, 3gm30, etc.). I'm going to look very closely at that, compare and decide if I want to replace the T37 binnacle. New cable, too. Oh, and found another new snatch block on this boat yesterday. Another $150 bucks.

I just wish I could figure out how to break the furler extrusion sections apart on the Harken MKIV. They're glued.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

Dave, thanks for the pics. Can't tell though how well those sheaves align. Also, FWIW, it seems like your stbd rudder post gusset is cracked just like mine. My crack was far worse though and was on both sides.

I will take some before and after pics of my steering gear. Plan on replacing when I get back up to the boat in a week or so.

Maineiac · **Posted:** 09 Aug 2021 06:34

So is what you're saying is that the sheaves, while in the topmost adjustment hole, cause the cable to align low on the quadrant? Or is there some other misalignment? Does the big quadrant cause the sheaves to have to be crammed together as close as possible?

Dammit, I don't have time to install this new binnacle. I was going to sell it for other shiny things. I guess I have to check to make sure the big wheel will fit it.

jfalsone · **Joined:** 06 Aug 2020 09:02 **Posts:** 142

If you look at the Edson diagram I posted you will see that the sheaves need to be positioned at a very acute angle to align with the quadrant in the vertical plane. My contention is that there simply isn't enough adjustment range in the idler to allow the pulleys/sheaves to take on the required angle for proper alignment. Will from Edson didn't believe me but said that you can file the raceway slightly for more range (he also said to paint over the exposed AL).

Not sure what wheel you have but I swapped my standard 36" for a Lewmar folding 40" but you need to use the straight shaft center hub (these wheels come with both straight and tapered). If I could've found a 42" I would've gone that way because there's room. The 40" is a huge improvement if you like a comfortable outboard driving position.

Velera · **Joined:** 29 Dec 2006 09:38 **Posts:** 656

I am trying to figure out what problem we are solving here. I have had my T37 for. 30 years and sailed it at least 20K miles the entire length of Pacific and Atlantic coasts of North and Central America--in all types of weather. I have kept the turning block sheaves, cable and chain oiled, replaced it once, and adjusted the tensions periodically to keep things aligned--mostly so the cable is neither too tight nor too loose. Kept the rudder post greased and replaced the rudder packing seals on it a couple times. But I have never seen any wear anywhere other than that cable getting some meathooks--which I have seen on nearly new boats I have delivered. I am aware that many previous owners of these boats may have never looked, let alone serviced, the turning block sheaves and cable and might have had the boat on a mooring without the wheel brake set. But it is really hard to understand how folks are seeing enough wear here to justify replacement. Velera never needed more than two fingers to steer. What am I missing?

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Edson Steering Idler Pullies

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